mickthetree
Established Member
Seeing as I don't have a bandsaw, and even if I did it wouldnt be big enough to resaw all the stock I have, I decided to make a framesaw instead.
My first real venture into hardwood (with any semblence of accuracy anyway).
Made from some offcuts of the quarter sawn oak I got from Mike.
Frame is 15 1/2" x 27 1/2", the arms and stretchers made from 1" x 1 1/2" stock.
I used a handdrill to drill out most of the waste from the mortices and then pared them down to the line.
Cut the tenons by hand and again paired them to fit.
really pleased with how accurate they are along their entire length. If anything they are probably a little too tight as they need a tap with a mallet to get them apart.
I got a bit carried away once I'd started so didnt take any before shots, but this is the 8" wide board I devided
A leftover from a board I used to make some windowsills the other day, but I didnt think you'd want to see those.
The finish on the cut is quite rough...
...as I had started with the smallest blade fitted (all cut from new bandsaw blade stock from a guy on ebay), then went to the next size, then the largest which you see fitted which is 1 1/2" 4tpi skip toothed carbon blade. £3 delivered for 3 24" sections of blade, I thought was alright. I think one cut with one size blade will leave a much better finish next time.
You can see the assembely I made to hold the ends of the blade here
I held the piece in my workmate but had some serious issues holding it down. Once that big blade bites, it jumps all over the place.
Started the cuts at the corners with a hand saw, then put the framesaw blade in the kerf
Planned up one side of the board (bookmatched I guess??) with a wooden jack plane I got off ebay for £2.50
Its a cracking plane and the blade takes a wicked edge with just a few licks on my oilstone.
So there we have it. It was actually really hard work to hold that small board down and I think it will be dramatically easier on the bigger pieces I have to resaw (8" board 10'long!!)
Once that blade gets going though it is incredible how fast it can cut.
Have to give some credit to the places I got the ideas from:
hyperkitten
woodcentral
swingleydev
Lessons learnt:
The oak stretchers cracked the first time they were tightened so I added a couple of bits of slightly bent wood from an old pallet. Not very pretty but hard as nails! I think its maple.
Let the weight of the saw do the work. Just guide it and hold tight!
My hands were a bit sore the next day. not from the hard edges, but I think where they got a bit sweaty and contacted the oak, it irritated them. Gloves will be used next time to see if this illiminates the problem.
and the final lesson learnt was have a go and get your hands dirty! I spend too much time procrastinating about things and in doing this I realised, it doesnt matter if it doesnt work, building it was half the fun and I've improved my measuring and marking skills, mortice and tenon skills and my understanding of how wood behaves with a wacking great saw blade like that coming at it.
and it does work which is a bonus!
I'll put off that bandsaw for a while yet.
My first real venture into hardwood (with any semblence of accuracy anyway).
Made from some offcuts of the quarter sawn oak I got from Mike.
Frame is 15 1/2" x 27 1/2", the arms and stretchers made from 1" x 1 1/2" stock.
I used a handdrill to drill out most of the waste from the mortices and then pared them down to the line.
Cut the tenons by hand and again paired them to fit.
really pleased with how accurate they are along their entire length. If anything they are probably a little too tight as they need a tap with a mallet to get them apart.
I got a bit carried away once I'd started so didnt take any before shots, but this is the 8" wide board I devided
A leftover from a board I used to make some windowsills the other day, but I didnt think you'd want to see those.
The finish on the cut is quite rough...
...as I had started with the smallest blade fitted (all cut from new bandsaw blade stock from a guy on ebay), then went to the next size, then the largest which you see fitted which is 1 1/2" 4tpi skip toothed carbon blade. £3 delivered for 3 24" sections of blade, I thought was alright. I think one cut with one size blade will leave a much better finish next time.
You can see the assembely I made to hold the ends of the blade here
I held the piece in my workmate but had some serious issues holding it down. Once that big blade bites, it jumps all over the place.
Started the cuts at the corners with a hand saw, then put the framesaw blade in the kerf
Planned up one side of the board (bookmatched I guess??) with a wooden jack plane I got off ebay for £2.50
Its a cracking plane and the blade takes a wicked edge with just a few licks on my oilstone.
So there we have it. It was actually really hard work to hold that small board down and I think it will be dramatically easier on the bigger pieces I have to resaw (8" board 10'long!!)
Once that blade gets going though it is incredible how fast it can cut.
Have to give some credit to the places I got the ideas from:
hyperkitten
woodcentral
swingleydev
Lessons learnt:
The oak stretchers cracked the first time they were tightened so I added a couple of bits of slightly bent wood from an old pallet. Not very pretty but hard as nails! I think its maple.
Let the weight of the saw do the work. Just guide it and hold tight!
My hands were a bit sore the next day. not from the hard edges, but I think where they got a bit sweaty and contacted the oak, it irritated them. Gloves will be used next time to see if this illiminates the problem.
and the final lesson learnt was have a go and get your hands dirty! I spend too much time procrastinating about things and in doing this I realised, it doesnt matter if it doesnt work, building it was half the fun and I've improved my measuring and marking skills, mortice and tenon skills and my understanding of how wood behaves with a wacking great saw blade like that coming at it.
and it does work which is a bonus!
I'll put off that bandsaw for a while yet.