FOOT SWITCH TYPE

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
AES":2dng9pf6 said:
Hullo Alexam,

Yes, confirm, the foot switch that I posted here a week or two back for use with my Excali (which I'm pretty sure could be used for other makes of scroll saw and many other things too) is of the "momentary" type - i.e. press with the foot the saw runs; lift the foot off the saw stops. Note also that in the case of my Excali, the original ON/OFF switch is still active - i.e. until the ON/OFF switch is set to ON then the foot switch doesn't operate at all.

HTH
AES


I have just found that once connected to the new foot switch, that only works with the foot switch depressed and the start button on the machine has been pressed. When I lift my foot, the machine stops. However, I can only get the machine started again by depressing the foot switch AND pressing the start button. I am trying to find answers of how to get around the saw NVR at present.
 
Alexam":2u1ptdut said:
I have just found that once connected to the new foot switch, that only works with the foot switch depressed and the start button on the machine has been pressed. When I lift my foot, the machine stops. However, I can only get the machine started again by depressing the foot switch AND pressing the start button. I am trying to find answers of how to get around this at present.

Like your saw has a built in NVR
 
I personally wouldn't overide the NVR as it's there for safety. Would be only too easy to catch the footswitch with your foot when your hand is too near the blade. Might be a nuisance to press the switch but much safer surely.

Bob
 
Hullo again Alexam.

Oh! The ON/OFF switch on my Excali is not an NVR switch so what you describe doesn't happen to me - once the switch on the saw is set to ON it stays ON all the time and the foot switch then works all the time just as I described earlier (i.e. foot on, saw ON/foot off, saw OFF).

Maybe that's why the Axi customer service people told me that their foot switch wasn't suitable for the Excali, I just don't know.

I was also worried to read that the foot switch you bought is single pole (i.e. only the +ve or the -ve line is switched, not both lines). I'm definitely NOT an electrician but I'm not sure that's the ideal for this use and I think it's probably significant that every electrical item that I've ever looked at, both domestic and workshop, switches both poles simultaneously.

Now I've got used to having the foot switch on the Excali I use it a lot and certainly wouldn't want to have to go back to turning the switch on the saw ON every time, most inconvenient, though no doubt safer overall if your saw's ON/OFF switch is an NVR.

Sorry, I just don't know a good answer to help you. Just as a remark, I can appreciate that scroll saw manufacturers want to keep their prices down, but judging by the amount of correspondence about foot switches I've found during my own searches (both here and on the net generally) I think it's a pity that all saw manufacturers don't at least offer suitable foot switches as a standard available option at time of purchase (or even as an all-inclusive package).

Good luck anyway mate.

AES
 
Yes, it will be a no volt return switch.
As said, the nvr is for safety so I don't think it wise to say on here how to Bypass. Though I could easily tell you how if you ask directly.
 
AES":2wnyw5mg said:
I was also worried to read that the foot switch you bought is single pole (i.e. only the +ve or the -ve line is switched, not both lines). I'm definitely NOT an electrician but I'm not sure that's the ideal for this use and I think it's probably significant that every electrical item that I've ever looked at, both domestic and workshop, switches both poles simultaneously.
Double pole switching is certainly becoming more commonplace, mainly down to Europe. Some parts of Europe have the polarity reversed, common to have both normal and reverse on the same site. Hence double pole.

In everyday use, single pole is fine.

You can buy stand alone nvr switches. If someone felt the need they could fit one BEFORE the foot pedal. Pedal (should) operate normally with the added protection of an nvr.

P. S. I train electrical installation at a college, so I'm expected to know my stuff. :) that's not me trying to be clever, just saying I'm not passing on third hand information or a Google warrior.
 
@Monkey Mark:

You wrote, QUOTE: ... that's not me trying to be clever .... UNQUOTE:

No, that's fine as far as I'm concerned, I'm NOT an electrical expert and personally welcome inputs from someone what knows 'is onions. I can't be sure but I have the feeling that all electrical appliances here (Switzerland) have double pole on/off switches. Dunno if it's regs or just custom.

BTW, a bit off topic I know, but not so long ago I was reading a motor caravanning book which suggested that camp sites are often wired "wrong way round", so, they said, it's a good idea to carry both a polarity tester and TWO mains connectors/adaptors, one wired one way, on t'other.

Just hope Alexam gets on OK with his foot switch.

AES
 
Alexam":1u9aoa0m said:
Hi Guys,

the foot switch recommended by Steve (MMUK) has just been delivered and looks very solid.

Just wanted to check with the electricians amongst you about the wiring. It has three points to connect wires, Com 1 - No 3 and NC 2. Which way do I wire these terminals to get the correct oiperation with the scroll saw to work when the foot switch is depressed.

It seems thre is no earth connection, so should I put a screw in the metal case?

The live wire from the supply goes to COM and the live wire going back up to the machine goes to NO.

You only need to use a 2 core flex for the switch, just use a bit of brown tape over the exposed parts of the blue core once stripped back. I would then remove the live wire from the load side of the NVR, connect this to the wire fitted to the NO terminal in the foot switch and then the wire from the COM terminal goes into the NVR where the original wire was removed from.

Any probs give me a shout and I'll pop over one eve on way home from work, I virtually pass your place anyway.
 
AES":lcmenp31 said:
@Monkey Mark:

You wrote, QUOTE: ... that's not me trying to be clever .... UNQUOTE:

No, that's fine as far as I'm concerned, I'm NOT an electrical expert and personally welcome inputs from someone what knows 'is onions. I can't be sure but I have the feeling that all electrical appliances here (Switzerland) have double pole on/off switches. Dunno if it's regs or just custom.

BTW, a bit off topic I know, but not so long ago I was reading a motor caravanning book which suggested that camp sites are often wired "wrong way round", so, they said, it's a good idea to carry both a polarity tester and TWO mains connectors/adaptors, one wired one way, on t'other.

Just hope Alexam gets on OK with his foot switch.

AES
It's funny you should mention caravans. I found out about Europe through me owning a European built caravan (Adria, built in Slovenia).
You're right, it is recommended that people take a polarity tester. As well as a "wrongly" wired hook up cable, clearly marked of course. You can buy a unit which you wire in before the consumer unit that detects the polarity and switches accordingly, negating the requirement to check (I believe a lot of European built caravans now have them fitted as standard).

I think some countries have to have double pole switches fitted, but not in the uk except for certain items.

With caravans, they now all have to be built with double poles in them. It may be built in the UK, but it could easily travel over to Europe, hence them now being mandatory.
 
I have considered getting a foot switch but because I sit on a stool my feet do not reach the floor and I feel very comfortable any suggestions ?
 
@kfenelon:

I'm not being sarcastic, honest, but is the stool & the bench the saw is fitted to at the right height for you? If not, I suggest you move one or both to suit you and the saw. Then see how you manage with the foot switch. If it/they is/are already at the right height for you, then I suggest packing the foot switch up to a suitable height, perhaps using ply or soft wood off cuts. Perhaps even angle the packing so that the front (toes end) of the foot switch suits your final sitting position.

I too sit at my saw (and at my little band saw) because of back problems, and use an old office type chair which is height adjustable to sit on - I managed to find a sitting height which is suitable for both saws and for the foot switch. I guess it's just a matter of trial and error (and the length of your legs)! :)

I don't know what your floor is made of but if you do end up packing the switch up on wood, don't forget to use an old bit of carpet or something to stop the foot switch sliding around under your foot.

HTH
AES
 
A shorter stool? ......................... Sorry, couldn't resist that. :roll: So when on the stool, are your feet anywhere near something that the foot switch could be attached to to overcome the problem?
 
MMUK":14lq5zc7 said:
Alexam":14lq5zc7 said:
Hi Guys,

the foot switch recommended by Steve (MMUK) has just been delivered and looks very solid.

Just wanted to check with the electricians amongst you about the wiring. It has three points to connect wires, Com 1 - No 3 and NC 2. Which way do I wire these terminals to get the correct oiperation with the scroll saw to work when the foot switch is depressed.

It seems thre is no earth connection, so should I put a screw in the metal case?

The live wire from the supply goes to COM and the live wire going back up to the machine goes to NO.

You only need to use a 2 core flex for the switch, just use a bit of brown tape over the exposed parts of the blue core once stripped back. I would then remove the live wire from the load side of the NVR, connect this to the wire fitted to the NO terminal in the foot switch and then the wire from the COM terminal goes into the NVR where the original wire was removed from.

Any probs give me a shout and I'll pop over one eve on way home from work, I virtually pass your place anyway.


I have wired the foot switch already
PNG Wire diagram.PNG
but with the Stop/Start switch connected, it will only run with foot down until foot lifted and then need the start switch started again with foot down.

I have a solution passed to me and that is to rewire the switch so that the footswitch then becomes the NVR switch,
2015-08-02 18.01.27 R.jpg
to do this I will connect the white and brown wires of the block being held (the switch) and connect the black and blue wires. This cuts out the switch and should leave the foot switch in complete control.

The switch on your machine may well be different, so check with someone who knows about these things, as I had to do.
 

Attachments

  • PNG Wire diagram.PNG
    PNG Wire diagram.PNG
    86.5 KB
  • 2015-08-02 18.01.27 R.jpg
    2015-08-02 18.01.27 R.jpg
    82.9 KB
As above really. Perhaps an angled plywood box? Rubber Base so non slip. Nice and light, stable and you could hide your chocolate stash in there too!
 
Alexam":3i98kgll said:
MMUK":3i98kgll said:
Alexam":3i98kgll said:
Hi Guys,

the foot switch recommended by Steve (MMUK) has just been delivered and looks very solid.

Just wanted to check with the electricians amongst you about the wiring. It has three points to connect wires, Com 1 - No 3 and NC 2. Which way do I wire these terminals to get the correct oiperation with the scroll saw to work when the foot switch is depressed.

It seems thre is no earth connection, so should I put a screw in the metal case?

The live wire from the supply goes to COM and the live wire going back up to the machine goes to NO.

You only need to use a 2 core flex for the switch, just use a bit of brown tape over the exposed parts of the blue core once stripped back. I would then remove the live wire from the load side of the NVR, connect this to the wire fitted to the NO terminal in the foot switch and then the wire from the COM terminal goes into the NVR where the original wire was removed from.

Any probs give me a shout and I'll pop over one eve on way home from work, I virtually pass your place anyway.


I have wired the foot switch already but with the Stop/Start switch connected, it will only run with foot down until foot lifted and then need the start switch started again with foot down.

I have a solution passed to me and that is to rewire the switch so that the footswitch then becomes the NVR switch,
View attachment 2015 to do this I will connect the white and brown wires of the block being held (the switch) and connect the black and blue wires. This cuts out the switch and should leave the foot switch in complete control.

The switch on your machine may well be different, so check with someone who knows about these things, as I had to do.
Exactly what I would do. Though you'll lose the nvr function if I'm looking at it correctly.
 
Just to confirm that by-passing the Stop/Start switches as above works perfectly and the rocker switch for the two speed control is not affected. The popwer lead is from a specific, switched wall socket so that to start working, the wall socket is switched on and from thereafter the foot switch is in control.

Thanks for all those who pitched in to help and I hope this will help others looking to do something similar.
 
Just for everyone's info.

It's not advisable to bypass the NVR. Should a fault occur with either the foot switch or machine itself you lose a layer of protection. The NVR is designed to fail in the OFF position should a fault or voltage loss occur.
 
MMUK":18h1tak0 said:
Just for everyone's info.

It's not advisable to bypass the NVR. Should a fault occur with either the foot switch or machine itself you lose a layer of protection. The NVR is designed to fail in the OFF position should a fault or voltage loss occur.
Well pointed out. Just to add, stand alone in-line nvr switches can be purchased should someone make this alteration and wish to fit one before the pedal, maintaining that layer of safety.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top