Floorboard replacement in lounge

[jugglingfloorer]

Hi all!!
Long time lurker, first time poster!

I'm replacing very old floorboards in my lounge.
I've taken up old boards, removed all nails, screws and debris before insulating. It's already warmer!!

How long should 25mm boards ,ptg 5th redwood I believe, be left in the room to acclimatise?
I googled and saw an answer between 7 days and 4 weeks!!

The joists are sound but not level, if I go over the joists without packing them level will the t&g still go in ok?
I know laminate etc doesnt like that!

Also, the "random" lengths are all 3.9m so i could do the whole floor with whole boards, no cuts. It makes sense to me to do it this way, easier, stronger and a bit quicker. With the 20mm total expansion gap I'll be leaving they will pop right in.
Anyone any thoughts?
It's a terraced house with front door into lounge so gets a fair bit of wear.

All the best!!

Paul

 

[Bingy man]

Hi - do you plan to fix the new boards and then varnish/ stain and or paint the new boards or simply underlay and carpet . I guess it comes down to the moisture content in the new boards but as you have removed the old boards then is it practical to wait 4 weeks to install the new ones . I replaced my mates bedroom and landing floor ( chipboard) after a bust pipe destroyed it . Had no choice as the t/g was delivered and left kerbside. No time to let it acclimatise had to jyst go for it . Several years later no problems and he’s recently had new carpets .

 

[Terry - Somerset]

I would be more concerned about the uneven joists - a couple of mm probably does not matter - but a 25-50mm sag in some joists probably does.

It will make fitting the T&G more challenging (but probably doable) and could compromise final flooring - as you note putting laminate down could leave voids underneath on installation and stress the "click" as it settles.

 

[Bingy man]

Agreed a few mm can be dealt with by using glazing packers or similar , anything greater can mean replacing the joist or at least sistering a new one to it although the op has not said by how much the floor is out.. as he has removed the existing flooring then levelling out the joists would not be too difficult imo .

 

[Cabinetman]

Welcome btw.
Yes packing tacked into place, sistering ( doubling the joist size by fastening to the side of the original) would be probably not doable as the insulation is in place?
Certainly you don’t need to leave the 20mm expansion gap for two reasons, the boards are going to be fastened down and from this point onwards all they will do is shrink as they dry out. I would suggest putting the floorboards in stick ( lots of sticks between the boards to allow airflow) and using a dehumidifier and a fan to help speed up the drying process, I would put weights on top to help stop twisting etc.
Ian

 

[jugglingfloorer]

Hi all,

So many great replies!

Finished floor?
Hope to sand and stain the boards in keeping with character of house, otherwise I'm a carpet fitter so no problem to carpet it. Rugs are nice too.

Insulation, its the thick silver foil stuff.

Joists, they are a bit out of level, not massively considering age. I've packers, 4 and 6mm ply but I think once I start, I'll be an inch higher in a corner.

Time!! The boards seem pretty dry, Selco kept then inside I think?
I can do 2 weeks storage then I am gonna have to crack on.

Joists are wide enough to put 2 screws in 1.5 inches apart, good idea?

The old boards are still down so I can live! New boards between sofas and tv!!

Off to work now!

Thanks a lot all!!


Paul

 

[Agent_zed]

Not that it means anything as who knows how different my boards are to yours but I re-did my dining room floor in T+G about 6 or 7 years ago. Think they are 150mm wide boards.

I just put them in straight away from memory, might have been a day or two from delivery but certainly not a long time. I used full length boards with no joins at 12ft long.

I pushed them together as tight as possible and then nailed the tongues with a flooring nailer designed to do that.

My floor has underfloor heating as well so I wondered how much they might move but other than a very slight cupping (I mean really slight) they have barely moved. There are virtually no gaps, might be a <1mm gap here or there but nothing noticable.

I used Osmo oil for the finish. Think I did 1 coloured coat then 2 clear. It was super slidey for quite a while though, which was fun in socks.

Before you fix it down though have a good think if you need to run any cables/pipes etc. Luckily I can just get under my floors but if you can't, now is the time to do it.

 

[ChaiLatte]

Hope to sand and stain the boards...

Joists are wide enough to put 2 screws in 1.5 inches apart, good idea?

If the boards are exposed, it might be wise to pay attention to the fixings.

If you joined two patterned carpets together and the joint made the pattern 1/2" out of synch., it would drive you mad forever looking at it.

Ideally hidden fixings but if you can see where the screw heads have been filled, a nice regular pattern of straight lines will be better than random zig-zags along the joist. If you fill with wooden plugs, align the grain of the plug to match the board.

If you are to sand, the more level the boards are when laid, the less material the sander needs to remove.

I do not know the answer to this so others might advise: if the boards are at a higher moisture content that the room, should the joints be (mechanically) clamped up tight before fixing, on the basis that they will widen when the boards shrink?

https://www.rutlands.com/products/floor-board-clamps-pack-of-2
https://www.britishhardwoods.co.uk/tongue-tite-flooring-screws.html

 

[Jester129]

If you're going to screw them down, don't forget to dip the screw into vaseline (for example, other brands are available) before screwing them in.