Fixings for stud wall to concrete floor and blocks?

[benjamino613]

I am building a partition wall from CLS studs, to separate an office area to the general warehouse area. Floor is concrete and walls are concrete blocks. What fixings would i be best suited for, to attach the stud wall to both the floor and the walls. It does not have to be a lifetime fixing, as it will all need to come down when we eventually move on.

cheers

 

[Bingy man]

I,d be careful drilling into the floor due to potential hidden cables and pipes etc . As for fixingings anything from screws and plugs to expensive bolts etc . My preference is size 10 or 12 screws of the appropriate length and fischer duo plugs ( the ones that you drill a 8mm for or 10mm for a size 12 screw . There are also fixings that can be screwed directly into a pre drilled hole that don’t need a plug but these are not suitable for soft bricks , if you are accurate with your setting out you can trap the horizontal timbers-ceiling and floor and you can then fix your vertical timbers top and bottom and then arrange your noggins. Hope this helps

 

[Spectric]

Frame fixings are ideal for the floor and decent plugs and screws for the wall. I always use Fischer plugs as they are just so dependable, take a look at there site.

 

[Jesmona]

I’d agree with Bingyman above but add that if the concrete is sound, I’ve had a lot of success with these.

https://its.co.uk/pd/DWT1410400-Dew...-EReQ6Wi9TU4n14VJ38q5U3RR6yiZR6AaAve5EALw_wcB

 

[benjamino613]

I,d be careful drilling into the floor due to potential hidden cables and pipes etc . As for fixingings anything from screws and plugs to expensive bolts etc . My preference is size 10 or 12 screws of the appropriate length and fischer duo plugs ( the ones that you drill a 8mm for or 10mm for a size 12 screw . There are also fixings that can be screwed directly into a pre drilled hole that don’t need a plug but these are not suitable for soft bricks , if you are accurate with your setting out you can trap the horizontal timbers-ceiling and floor and you can then fix your vertical timbers top and bottom and then arrange your noggins. Hope this helps

cheers

 

[benjamino613]

Frame fixings are ideal for the floor and decent plugs and screws for the wall. I always use Fischer plugs as they are just so dependable, take a look at there site.

by frame fixings, do you mean the hammer in type fixings with the nylon plug? or any frame fixing including the direct to concrete screws? regarding fischer plugs, i think that would be the best solution for the walls. My wall is CLS 38mm thickness, what size plug and screw would you reccomend?

thank you

 

[ChaiLatte]

What size plug and screw would you recommend?

A reasonably important factor in your choice of fixings is what you have to drill the hole with. If it is an SDS drill, anything will do.

If you have a standard percussion drill, the concrete will be very hard work, the blocks just hard work. In that case, a smaller hole and a self-tapping fixing might lessen the pain of drilling, but against that, the self-tapping ones would not be fun to drive in with a manual screwdriver.

 

[benjamino613]

A reasonably important factor in your choice of fixings is what you have to drill the hole with. If it is an SDS drill, anything will do.

If you have a standard percussion drill, the concrete will be very hard work, the blocks just hard work. In that case, a smaller hole and a self-tapping fixing might lessen the pain of drilling, but against that, the self-tapping ones would not be fun to drive in with a manual screwdriver.

have all the necessary tools, SDS, impact etc. cheers!

 

[Spectric]

by frame fixings, do you mean the hammer in type fixings with the nylon plug?

No I don't like the hammer fixings, I use Timco like these Timco PZ Nylon Frame Fixings 10.0mm x 80mm 100 Pack - Screwfix

I drill a 6mm hole in the wood, locate the wood and then drill into the concrete with a 6mm masonary to give a 30mm plus hole. Now remove wood and drill concrete using 10mm masonary and drill out the timber to 10mm, clean all dust up and locate timber pushing the frame fixings through the timber into the concrete all the way and then screw them down. Start with a drill but finish with a driver as it gives a better feel. The reason I drill the 6mm hole into concrete is to help guide the bigger drill and ensure the hole is vertical.

You can get better deals from other trade outlets if you are buying more but screwfix can be handy.

 

[benjamino613]

No I don't like the hammer fixings, I use Timco like these Timco PZ Nylon Frame Fixings 10.0mm x 80mm 100 Pack - Screwfix

I drill a 6mm hole in the wood, locate the wood and then drill into the concrete with a 6mm masonary to give a 30mm plus hole. Now remove wood and drill concrete using 10mm masonary and drill out the timber to 10mm, clean all dust up and locate timber pushing the frame fixings through the timber into the concrete all the way and then screw them down. Start with a drill but finish with a driver as it gives a better feel. The reason I drill the 6mm hole into concrete is to help guide the bigger drill and ensure the hole is vertical.

You can get better deals from other trade outlets if you are buying more but screwfix can be handy.

great clear advice thanks, i will follow this for the floor part! just wondering what size fischer plug to use for the walls though?

 

[Bingy man]

Fischer duo 10x50
I’ve used these with 3.5 “ x 12 no issues, it does depend on the thickness of your timber + the depth you are drilling into the wall and depending on if you intend to drill straight through the timber and into the wall or will you just drill through the timber to mark holes and then remove it to complete the holes , add plugs etc . It’s not always easy to send a plug through 3 inches of timber even with it attached to the end of the screw.. longer plugs are also available but I’ve never needed them as yet .

 

[benjamino613]

Fischer duo 10x50
I’ve used these with 3.5 “ x 12 no issues, it does depend on the thickness of your timber + the depth you are drilling into the wall and depending on if you intend to drill straight through the timber and into the wall or will you just drill through the timber to mark holes and then remove it to complete the holes , add plugs etc . It’s not always easy to send a plug through 3 inches of timber even with it attached to the end of the screw.. longer plugs are also available but I’ve never needed them as yet .

thanks bingy. Well the stud wall is cls 38mm thickness ( 89 mm width).

Yes, my main problem is how far to drill deep into the block and how far is sufficient. I would do as you mentioned above, use the timber to mark up, then drill only through the block., add plugs etc, return the timber to secure. Would a 50mm fixing into the concrete wall be sufficient holding power for a studd wall though?

many thanks

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Wedges to hold it in place then polyurethane foam. Why screw it at all?

 

[Bingy man]

thanks bingy. Well the stud wall is cls 38mm thickness ( 89 mm width).

Yes, my main problem is how far to drill deep into the block and how far is sufficient. I would do as you mentioned above, use the timber to mark up, then drill only through the block., add plugs etc, return the timber to secure. Would a 50mm fixing into the concrete wall be sufficient holding power for a studd wall though?

many thanks

50 to 70mm should be more than enough given it’s just a stud wall, as I said with a snug fit with your uprights it will hold itself up . I prefer to hammer the plugs below the surface by a a few mm to give them a good firm fix using a screw .
The storage shelves below are made with cls similar to yours , the same plugs I’ve recommended to you were used and similar screws and it’s solid .

 

[Jones]

I like concrete screws as there's no need for a plastic sleeve and the hole diameter is smaller. The 6 mm diameter and 70 or 80 mm length should do. For the floor fixing if there might be anything in the slab then clean the area with a wet cloth and use pu wood glue while it's still a bit damp.

 

[Spectric]

Wedges to hold it in place then polyurethane foam. Why screw it at all?

and don't forget the PPE, just a stetson will do !

 

[Lons]

Nothing wrong with hammer fixings for a lightweight stud wall, I've used many hundreds of them and no failures, nothing has fallen down in 30 years and as my customers were all local I would have heard very quickly. They're a quick simple fix, e.g .for 8mm gauge drill a 9 or 10mm hole through the timber, then put an 8mm masonary bit through that into the block, push in the fitting and hammer home, if the hole in the timber is too tight you'll bend the plug. You can get them later out by unscrewing and cutting the plastic plug. I would use 100 x 8 with your cls.
If you make the frame a tight fit the only place you need to mechanically fix to the floor is next to any door frame, you can run a bead of hard as nails or exp foam, same at ceiling level.

A good tight fit for a lightweight stud wall clad in plasterboard, OSB or similar isn't going anywhere, it's a quick easy job.

 

[Bingy man]

thanks bingy. Well the stud wall is cls 38mm thickness ( 89 mm width).

Yes, my main problem is how far to drill deep into the block and how far is sufficient. I would do as you mentioned above, use the timber to mark up, then drill only through the block., add plugs etc, return the timber to secure. Would a 50mm fixing into the concrete wall be sufficient holding power for a studd wall though?

many thanks

Edited as duplicate post

 

[Fergie 307]

great clear advice thanks, i will follow this for the floor part! just wondering what size fischer plug to use for the walls though?

Just use the same fixings, or slightly longer ones if you prefer.

 

[Molynoox]

You could use small metal L brackets and save the hassle of drilling through 90mm of timber with every fixing. Would be a cleaner job to remove later too.

I use concrete screws all the time, work perfectly at long as you don't overtighten them.

Plugs for the soft blocks like others have said

Martin