fix for a twisted door ?????

[Tusses]

one on my styles has bowed a bit, adding a twist to the door.

Any hints and tips for correcting it ?

My 1st thoughts are something like the rod in a guitar neck, where you tension it to correct any bow.

2nd is to rip the style in half and re attach a 'repair' piece with the oppostie bow. glued and doweled into place.

3rd - as its a garage door, add a piece of 2" steel angle top to bottom on each door and call it a security device !

any ideas would be REALLY welcome !!!!

 

[OLD]

I like the angle iron idea with perhaps some saw cuts in the style so its pulled straight by the steel.

 

[dennis]

Is it a central meeting stile or a hinged one, an extra hinge would help if it is a hinged one,it would not cure it but would restict the amount that it can move.

Dennis

 

[Tusses]

side hung, open in the middle

thanks anyway

 

[dennis]

Sorry Tusses

I was meaning which stile was twisting, the meeting one or the hinged one.

Dennis

 

[Tusses]

ahh - I see said the blind man

not , its the center.

 

[dennis]

How much has it moved.It is a toss up really, whether to leave it a bit longer and see if it goes any more or try and rectify it now. If it is not too bad a bit of wangling on the rebates and a central bolt may be enough.

Dennis

 

[Tusses]

its probably 4 or 5 mm from the mid rail up !

I think a brace on the back might be the easiest fix.

can you straighten bent wood just like you can bend straight wood ?

'wood' have thought so

maybe a brace will straighten it over time ?

 

[Tusses]

they were dead straight before I put the preservative on !

 

[dennis]

As it is only 4 or 5 mill I would be tempted to pack the hinges and ease the rebate,and hope that it does not get any worse.Thats the problem with wood being unpredictable.

Dennis

 

[WellsWood]

A similar question came up recently regarding wardrobe doors, can't remember the exact thread. Anyway, as I said then, there is a kit you can buy (for quite respectable money) which works just like idea 1 - i.e. threaded rod thingy captive at both ends and set in a groove in the back of the door, you then add tension or pressure to that face to correct any bow.
Trouble is the ones I've seen are designed for doors made from flat sheet - MFC and the like - so I don't suppose they'd be man enough for garage doors. The principle's sound though, and with a little ingenuity I'm sure a beefier version could be put together using 10mm threaded rod. The advantage to this is the ability to add or sutract tension in the future to attend to any further movement that may occur.

Personally I'd be inclined to wait, assuming you can persuade them to close as is, and see what happens. We've had some pretty extreme weather recently and you may find there's some movement still to come, it may even go back once the moisture content evens out between the inner and outer faces. To this end it may be worthwhile trying to allow the inside face to be exposed to similar conditions as the outer, leave the doors open when the sun's shining , or hosing down the inner if the outer has had a lot of rain on it, for example.
You have applied the same level of protection to both sides of the door haven't you? This, as I'm sure you already know, is fairly crucial for stability.

 

[Tusses]

These are the doors

 

[Steve Maskery]

Tusses
5mm wind in that lot is nothing! But I agree it is disappointing. That is why for the small amount of external joinery I'm making these days I am laminating my timber.

Well, are these doors actually used? I mean are they the main entry and exit points? If like mine, they are opened twice a year at most, and the main entry is a personnel door elsewhere, then you can simply bolt both from inside and pull them flush. If they are opened everyday from the outside for a car, then...


..over to someone else.

S

 

[Tusses]

no they wont get real use. but still ! they were dead straight yesterday !
I am getting over it tho

 

[dennis]

Have you used a straight edge to check that the twist is only on one door.As you say the frame is twisted this could be exaggerating the twist in the stile.And as I said before I would probably eliminate it by packing behind opposing hinges and easing the rebate.

Dennis

 

[Steve Maskery]

It's wood, it moves, get used to it.

Nothing that comes out of my workshop is straight and square, why should yours!

If it's any consolation, I've just amde a new front door for our house and the bottom panel has a 4mm split in it, so I've had to make a new panel fabricated out of MDF, pine and polystyrene and to fit it I have to replace a whole lot of Bolection moulding

S

 

[Tusses]

It's wood, it moves, get used to it.

Nothing that comes out of my workshop is straight and square, why should yours!

If it's any consolation, I've just amde a new front door for our house and the bottom panel has a 4mm split in it, so I've had to make a new panel fabricated out of MDF, pine and polystyrene and to fit it I have to replace a whole lot of Bolection moulding

S

ok ok , but at least let me sulk for a few hours ! LOL !

 

[Rich]

Hi Tusses, try putting 2 coats of preservative on the reverse side, this will make it "wind back" if I'm not mistaken, leastways, it worked for me.

Regards,
Rich.

 

[Tusses]

dont think I haven't thought about it !

it's installed and he has painted it now !