First workshop build

[Dibs-h]

Ground level is already at least 50mm below the top of the slab all round ie 50mm below the mortar line of the blocks. I think the problem is that the slab is not exactly square, so in some places it extends a few cm beyond the blocks, leaving a small plinth where water can gather.

Drew

Either cut it back if you can with say a Stihl or apply a fillet of mortar (the cementious slurry type products may not be available there) at the joint. My money is the water is coming in along the mortar bed - i.e. between block and base. The fillet option is probably easier.

The cementious slurry product I used - I'll have to have a look in the "shed", I think I had some left over. It came in 2 parts - a fine powder that you mixed up by hand in small quantities and "pressed" into the mortar line (which you could use to then also form a fillet at the base) and another that you mixed up like thin plaster and brushed on (which you might not need).

HIH

Dibs

 

[Mcluma]

Did you backfill the blocks with concrete or are they still holow?

 

[Dibs-h]

Did you backfill the blocks with concrete or are they still holow?

I reckon they are left hollow - the Yanks have almost identical ones & I've seen them laid with no backfill.

Dibs

 

[dlowry_uk]

I filled every other block with concrete to give a solid base for the bottom plate, but generally they are left hollow by local builders - mainly because they lay them "face-up", so its not possible to backfill.

 

[dlowry_uk]

What kind of blocks are you using? 7N or 3.5N ones - or something else?

Basically equivalent to 3.5N. The B40 code means they support 40bar, which is 4N/mm2, if that sheds any further light...

 

[Mcluma]

The reason is aks is because these blocks are as leaky as ****, they are used in europe as a building block to add later on render. hence the rough surface.

so having not backfilled them means they are very leaky

to proof the point, take a block that you have left over and pour some water over it, you will see it will go straight through it

they have great insulation value, as when used in a building they will add thermal concrete sheets on the outside and then render

so make them waterproof, you have to add a render, or put some bitumen paint on it, like they do in france on the outside of pre-cast cellers

 

[dlowry_uk]

The reason is aks is because these blocks are as leaky as ****, they are used in europe as a building block to add later on render. hence the rough surface.

so having not backfilled them means they are very leaky

to proof the point, take a block that you have left over and pour some water over it, you will see it will go straight through it

they have great insulation value, as when used in a building they will add thermal concrete sheets on the outside and then render

so make them waterproof, you have to add a render, or put some bitumen paint on it, like they do in france on the outside of pre-cast cellers

That would explain it Ok, I suppose the good news is I haven't done anything outrageously stupid, and it can be fixed. The easiest for me would be bitumen paint, assuming its readily available around here.

Thanks to all who replied,

Drew

 

[dlowry_uk]

Hi,
Here's a taster of how the roof will look eventually

This was basically a little trial just to see how things fit. I already did a full test row, as I'd dimensioned the roof just from the tile spec sheet. Luckily, eveything seems good - no cuts need at the ends, and a good overhang for the guttering. I'll put that down to 30% planning and 70% beginners luck 8)

Now, I'm no roofer, so I need some advice on how best to proceed. For safety, I'd prefer to have battens for my feet at all times rather than clambering about on the tiled surface. So, I'd thought about fitting the top row of tiles on each side of the ridge and fitting the ridge first, then work right to left for the main surface, either in a diagonal as in the photo, or laying a vertical row at a time, whinh might make it easier to keep everything in line. Only drawback is fitting the next-to- last row under the top one, but should be doable I think?

I guess this isn't the normal procedure, but I see more advantages than drawbacks for me as a complete novice:

1) It sets a full row properly aligned on each side as a reference.
2) It avoids messing about on the tiled surface with heavy ridge tiles.
3) I'm using a dry-fit system for the ridgetiles, with an adhesive roll like this

which both ventilates the ridge and prevents water ingress from below. Again, easier to fit without all the main roof in place.

Advice from roofing experts welcome, as this is something I'm not overly confident about...

Oddly, I used to be a rock-climber/alpinist, but this seems to have made me more aware of the potential for disaster from even small falls rather than making me confident scrambling about on this little roof, hence the concern to find a way to keep good footholds available throughout. Maybe I should dig out my old gear and rope up

Regards
Drew

 

[dlowry_uk]

My roofing problem was resolved by having a neighbour whose son is a roofer, and who offered to do it for free - I'm the one offering encouragement from the ladder...

He did 3/4 of the roof in less than a day, and I also have the security of knowing it's being done properly.

I'd never make it as a roofer's labourer though... :?

Regards
Drew

 

[Mcluma]

I like using these tiles as you can push them up, so you can easily get to the top

has the ridge been done now?

 

[dlowry_uk]

has the ridge been done now?

Hi Chris,
No, he prefers to tile both sides completely and do the ridge last, so I'm hoping it'll be done tomorrow. At least I learned how to measure and mark out the roof, if I ever have to do it again.

Drew

 

[dlowry_uk]

I started fulltime training with a guitar-builder at the end of september, so things have slowed considerably on the workshop. The roof is now finished though, which is a major milestone. I also put 2 coats of black bitumen paint on the blockwork to waterproof it, and have fitted the first window. I've started battening for the cladding, which I'm ordering this week. I hope to fit the remaining 2 windows this weekend, then start on the cladding, as I'd like to get the outside more or less weatherproofed for the winter.

Drew

 

[flying haggis]

Could you carry the battens down further ie across the block work so that the cladding will sheild the blockwork.

Also, just a thought but if you kicked the very bottom of the battens out enough would the rain thet runs down the cladding (I am assuming the cladding is horizontal) miss the slab and drop onto the ground

 

[Cegidfa]

Hello Drew,

The roof looks as if it has been done by a pro....
F H’s suggestion is a good one, and it would add ’interest’ to the look of the workshop.
To get the best out of the cladding, do paint all round (if you are coating that is). It extends the life of the cladding - the Americans have done this for a long time now, and they are the timberframe experts.

What branch of lutherie grabs you; steel string acoustic, classical, or being in France - Selmer or Maccaferri style jazz models? Or all of them.

Below is a Martin style lookalike that I started long ago and will be the first project when the build is completed.

Bon chance with the training. I look forward to your first WIP.

Regards....Dick.

 

[dlowry_uk]

Could you carry the battens down further ie across the block work so that the cladding will sheild the blockwork.

Also, just a thought but if you kicked the very bottom of the battens out enough would the rain thet runs down the cladding (I am assuming the cladding is horizontal) miss the slab and drop onto the ground

I'm following local guidelines for cladding, which recommend that it should start at least 20cm from ground level. The battens do extend beyond the edge of the blockwork to allow the first board to overlap the top of the blocks, so runoff will not drip directly onto them. Obviously rain will hit the blockwork in windy conditions, but it won't have a waterfall from the cladding. Insect mesh at top and bottom of the battens should stop the beasties invading as well, I hope.

What branch of lutherie grabs you; steel string acoustic, classical, or being in France - Selmer or Maccaferri style jazz models? Or all of them.

Mainly steelstring acoustic, although the first guitar I made was a nylon-string - not a classical, but a "crossover", basically a nylon-strung guitar for non-classical players. Here's muggins with the finished article in a proper luthier's workshop...

Below is a Martin style lookalike that I started long ago and will be the first project when the build is completed.

Looks good! Be sure to post pics when you get round to finishing it

Drew

 

[dlowry_uk]

Latest progress - fitted the windows and made good progress on the larch cladding, despite the sleet and hail this weekend :roll:

Larch is surprisingly hard - I bent a few stainless steel nails before deciding to predrill. I'll also make the window, door and corner trim from ripped lengths of cladding, and hope to use it on the outside of the double doors.

 

[flying haggis]

Looks good to me

 

[jumps]

looks great to me - been following thread with great interest as I will be building 'something' on a recently cleared corner, and this wall structure looks just right (although the roofing looks a little over my budget).

 

[Mcluma]

Cann't see it properly, but did you leave yourselve enough space to do the window trim?, i alos like to do the corners first with a rabat, so it leaves a wind and rain tight corner

 

[dlowry_uk]

Cann't see it properly, but did you leave yourselve enough space to do the window trim?, i alos like to do the corners first with a rabat, so it leaves a wind and rain tight corner

I left room for a sill and casing around each window. I'm not sure what you mean by a rabat at the corners. However, I stapled a vertical strip of impermeable wrap on the battens at each corner as additional weatherproofing, so any water ingress can run off even before getting to the inner wrap on the OSB. I'll then close the corners with trim. I guess the cladding won't be completely watertight at the corners, but that's why I sheathed with OSB and wrapped it completely with breathable membrane, all joints taped.