First Garden Bench - almost complete WIP

[alan2001]

An embarrassingly long time ago, my wife asked me to build her a simple garden bench. As I am a beginner, and also wanted to impress her, I've made a lot of mistakes, spent far too much money, and learned a lot along the way. She requested something 'chunky', so after many designs and revisions, that is what she got. I'm painfully aware of some of the flaws in this piece, but I'm really happy that it's almost done now and I can move onto something else. I hesitate to ask for a critique yet, cos it would be like shooting fish in a barrel.

It's all made from 144mm x 44 mm dressed pine. The legs are both two short pieces of that, glued & dowelled together before being cut to shape. The angled design of the legs was inspired by traditional Scottish Baronial architecture, believe it or not, intended to give the impression of strength and stability. The stretcher was a late addition to the design, which I had to fight for with the client who didn't see the point of it. "Not being wobbly" was one of the main reasons for it, obviously.

The long side pieces are just screwed onto the side of the main seat piece, with their weight thankfully also supported by the legs. Getting those legs to the right shape for a tight fit with the top of the bench was a complete nightmare, especially at one corner. It was at this point that I realised that my cheap crappy plastic Stanley carpenters square wasn't really square at all. But instead of doing them all again from scratch, I bodged up a sliver of matching pine and inserted it in that corner. Non woodworkers won't notice, and I hope you lot would be too classy to point it out.

I couldn't get any of the pre-drilled screw holes to countersink neatly (even with a nice new countersink bit), so decided to add cup washers to the equation to hide the roughness and add a certain feeling (illusion) of solidity to the design. I'm still really pleased with that little detail, despite the reason for adding them.

softwood overtightening fail, or should I get one of those newfangled snail type anti-chatter countersinks?

But then I began to worry about the longevity of the zinc plated screws and cup washers, and ordered stainless steel ones instead. I do know about the differences of tensile and shear strengths of these, but don't think it'll be an issue. They will be shiny and won't rust.

I pondered long and hard about the final finish. I bought some 'antique oak' woodstain which I used on a rough & ready foot stool I knocked up, and realised there was no way that horrible gunk was going on my 'masterpiece', haha! Then I bought a tin of yacht varnish, which has not even been opened yet, thank god. I was eventually inspired this week by a thread by Creampuff on his picnic bench, which was just the look I was after - Liberon Garden Furniture Oil, in Teak colour.

topic53497.html

I really wanted this to look good, but I really hate sanding. I did the bare minimum with an orbital sander with a 120 grit sheet, with the wife deriding me for having extreme OCD and being too much of a perfectionist. Hah! If only she knew. But that's it done to my satisfaction at last, it feels smooth and I can't see any pencil marks anywhere now. That was the standard - no pencil marks, visible splinters, or cat footprints.

So this was the first time I'd ever used a cloth to apply oil to any large item, and was quite apprehensive about making a total mess of it. But after two wipes, I was grinning from ear to ear for the next few hours; it was a total joy to do. I am so delighted with the way the oil has brought out the grain and knot patterns. Two more coats on top and some more on the underside and it'll be FINISHED!!!

When the oiling is done, I'll replace all the zinc plated CSK screws with the pristine and shiny stainless screws and cup washers.

More pics when it's done and in situ in the garden.

Talk about a labour of love, with a steep learning curve, while stubbornly reinventing the wheel. Please bear in mind that this project started before I'd even heard of this forum, and I've learned so much from you guys and woodworking books since then that it's been difficult to persevere with something that I would have done completely differently now.

 

[monkeybiter]

Please bear in mind that this project started before I'd even heard of this forum, and I've learned so much from you guys and woodworking books since then that it's been difficult to persevere with something that I would have done completely differently now.

But you already know that your next project will be quicker and better, and the next one etc. But this looks sturdy and will do it's job. It will probably rot outdoors after three or four years, but that will give you a good excuse to make a new one.

 

[Melinda_dd]

Please bear in mind that this project started before I'd even heard of this forum, and I've learned so much from you guys and woodworking books since then that it's been difficult to persevere with something that I would have done completely differently now.

But you already know that your next project will be quicker and better, and the next one etc. But this looks sturdy and will do it's job. It will probably rot outdoors after three or four years, but that will give you a good excuse to make a new one.

What would you have used for it not to rot in such a little time?

 

[monkeybiter]

Well apparently Iroko, Oak or Teak would be good candidates for outdoor furniture. I'm not claiming experience, but I try to pcik up what I can from the knowledgable forumites.

 

[alan2001]

Hah, that does sound like a discouragingly short life span. I'm reasonably confident it'll last a bit longer than that, given some care and maintenance now and again.

Making it from a hardwood would have been more durable, no doubt, but at the time I wasn't having much success sourcing any locally.

Two coats done, one more to go. That Liberon stuff goes a **** of a long way, this litre tin will last for years!

 

[monkeybiter]

I overlooked the bit about the oil finish. That will afford protection, but I would reckon you'd best keep it topped up, and think about what the feet will sat on and how much moisture will 'wick' up the grain.

 

[OPJ]

An interesting first bench, Alan. I think the design has a lot of potential.

For what it's worth, I bought a snail countersink from Wealden Tools recently (anything to avoid the small order charge when purchasing a single router cutter! ;-)) and it's proved to be excellent so far. It's so sharp, even if it is new. So much more so than anything else I've owned or used. I think the chip ejection slot is what it's all about. My only minor gripe is that it seems to be too easy to create a countersink that isn't concentric to the clearance hole. I've never had this problem with cheaper 'sinks but, I'm sure it can be avoided by holding the drill perfectly vertical, for a start...! :roll:

An alternative to screwing might have been to create a simple tongue and groove joint with the router, between the top and the long sides. That would make it far easier to align the pieces. When using countersunk screws on their own, I often find there's a tendency for them to pull the wood out of position as the heads bite down. Or, by drilling a larger counterbore for the screw heads, you could hide them altogether and fill these recesses with matching wooden plugs.

 

[knappers]

I like the design - my main comment would be to have joined the sides underneath the edge of the top instead of to the sides, thus stopping rain getting into the joints.

Si

 

[Creampuff]

I like the design - my main comment would be to have joined the sides underneath the edge of the top instead of to the sides, thus stopping rain getting into the joints.

Si

Got to agree with that, you'll start to see the joints part once its been outside for a couple of seasons, but hey the most important thing in my book is that you like it.

**** i might even make one myself out of old railway sleepers! It looks really nice Andy flippin well done mate!
Love the finish, and i'm glad you enjoyed it. It never ceases to amaze me how beautiful the simplest lump of timber looks when you give it a bit of attention and apply a bit of finish to it

I was deliberating on weather to use Teak oil on my bench, but them my sis decided she wanted a clear finish, so i just happen to have a spare litre of Teak oil to use on the next project!!

Again well done Andy I love it!!


Andy

 

[alan2001]

I like the design - my main comment would be to have joined the sides underneath the edge of the top instead of to the sides, thus stopping rain getting into the joints.

yes indeed, I've pretty much always realised that those two joins are a fundamental weakness when it comes to weatherproofing. but if I'd done it as you suggested above, it wouldn't be the same bench, and would you still like the design? I wouldn't.

as a beginner, i'm slowly learning not to reinvent the wheel all the time, and realise that traditional designs are popular and functional for a reason! (hammer)

think about what the feet will sat on and how much moisture will 'wick' up the grain.

yes... any tips on that? the plan was simply to use several coats of the same oil. what else can I do to protect the feet better without spoling the look - varnish?

thanks for all the comments so far.

 

[monkeybiter]

Sorry if any comments have seemed negative, that's not the intention.

What will the bench sit on? I'd aim to avoid positioning directly on grass etc. , maybe sitting on slabs or fit some non-absorbant 'feet' of some sort.
That's just what I'd do. HTH

 

[Lons]

It never ceases to amaze me how beautiful the simplest lump of timber looks when you give it a bit of attention and apply a bit of finish to it Andy

:lol: :lol: :lol: I spend so much time doing just that, I don't have any time left to make stuff :?

Bob

 

[Benchwayze]

Whilst on the subject of durability, aside from the naturally durable, has anyone any experience of making outdoor stuff from tanalised/pressure treated timber?

At the moment my local supplier has some nice clean 4 x 2 in stock and it looks as if it would make a decent pickernick table and benches.

Regards
John

 

[Sagly]

John,

I made these chairs out of pressure treated timber a few years ago and they have been left outside for the last two (harsh) winters. They are now the coulour of the fence behind but are still as sturdy as the day I made them.

 

[Benchwayze]

Thank you Saggers.

Then it seems I am on the right track for a substitute for cedarwood. (Those Adirondack chairs are nice, but far too low for my old knees! )
I am going into design mode for a table and chairs with the Pressure treated timber then. (I will give my Kreg-Jig a real test this time! Must remember to buy the weatherproof screws though!

Thanks again.

John mrgreen:

 

[alan2001]

Sorry if any comments have seemed negative, that's not the intention.

What will the bench sit on? I'd aim to avoid positioning directly on grass etc. , maybe sitting on slabs or fit some non-absorbant 'feet' of some sort.
That's just what I'd do. HTH

no offence has been taken!

the bench will either sit on concrete or paving slabs. please describe in more detail your idea of non-absorbent feet! and tell me how to add them invisibly too.

it does seem to be a fundamental flaw in all wooden furniture, so perhaps it's just inevitable? is it?

(but the wife loves it so much she's talking about bringing it into the house for the autumn/winter )

 

[alan2001]

I forgot I had an unopened tin of clear wood preserver gel, so I'm just gonna give the feet a couple of coats of that on top of the oil. so forget i spoke please, that'll be good enough.

one slight annoyance remains though, which i would like to understand and avoid in the future. there are some 'stripes' on the inside of the legs that are still refusing to darken, even after 4 coats:

what's that all about??? is there anything i could have done in the preparation stage to avoid it? (or even recognise it!)

anyway, I'm not getting too anal and precious about it, I'm just looking forward to finishing it. I'm loving some of the grain patterns and knots, even though it's just plain old pine. favourite bit:

 

[Lons]

Thank you Saggers.

Then it seems I am on the right track for a substitute for cedarwood. (Those Adirondack chairs are nice, but far too low for my old knees! )
I am going into design mode for a table and chairs with the Pressure treated timber then. (I will give my Kreg-Jig a real test this time! Must remember to buy the weatherproof screws though!

Thanks again.

John mrgreen:

Be careful handling the timber if the treatment is still wet as you can get a skin reaction to the chemicals - from experience

Bob

 

[Benchwayze]

Thank you Saggers.

Then it seems I am on the right track for a substitute for cedarwood. (Those Adirondack chairs are nice, but far too low for my old knees! )
I am going into design mode for a table and chairs with the Pressure treated timber then. (I will give my Kreg-Jig a real test this time! Must remember to buy the weatherproof screws though!

Thanks again.

John mrgreen:

Be careful handling the timber if the treatment is still wet as you can get a skin reaction to the chemicals - from experience

Bob

Thanks Bob.

I must be lucky. I didn't know about this. A few weeks ago, I used some of this stuff for the timber rack in the ceiling space of my shop. Can't say I noticed any reactions, although I wore eye protection as I always do, having once had sawdust in my eye from some ordinary pine. A lot of discomfort, but no reaction either. Neither do I suffer from the problems with Iroko. (Cedar wood makes me cough, so as a rule, I use a mask when I work that.)

Thanks again Bob. I'll l wear gloves just in case, (Not with machinery of course!) There is going to be more cutting making a 'pickernick' bench than making my timber rack!
Obliged

John

 

[alan2001]

hey now... my white stripe problem is the most pressing issue here right now, please.

it is upside down in the workshop, and urgent advice would be appreciated, if possible.