Paul Chapman":13f3ywho said:bugbear":13f3ywho said:
Thanks, BB - should have spotted that; it's written on the blade:lol:
Written - wow, that employee must have a very heavy hand, as well as being an accomplished forger. :lol:
Final bevel angle on low-angle block plane
- Thread starter woden
- Start date
Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:
Written - wow, that employee must have a very heavy hand, as well as being an accomplished forger. :lol:
graween
Established Member
Hi.
If I remember well in Garett Hack's book, for end grain, I think he recommends 20° and a back bevel of 5° for european hard wood. He also says that if you work moslty with soft woods you can even go down to 15° and 5° as back bevel.
I'll have a look tonight to make sure.
I have never tried myself, and use 25° on my low angle block plane. But I have a spare blade that I'm willing to prepare that way an try (just got no time for that since I bought that blade ).
Best Regards.
If I remember well in Garett Hack's book, for end grain, I think he recommends 20° and a back bevel of 5° for european hard wood. He also says that if you work moslty with soft woods you can even go down to 15° and 5° as back bevel.
I'll have a look tonight to make sure.
I have never tried myself, and use 25° on my low angle block plane. But I have a spare blade that I'm willing to prepare that way an try (just got no time for that since I bought that blade
).Best Regards.
matthewwh
Established Member
Kinda defeats the object of a low angle block plane if you don't have a good quality carbon steel blade in it. Veritas already offer them and I doubt if LN will take too much longer to work it out. Ditto for bevel-ups. If you are looking for a replacement blade Ray Iles does some beauties (the old tool store), as does Ron Hock (Classic hand tools).
The Clifton blades are stamped as a forging and then precision ground and laser cut. The forgings are at just over 1000 degrees when they are stamped and weigh 2 kilos, they are positioned by hand (so the red hot 2kg is at the end of a big pair of tongs) under a 20 foot high drop hammer which comes flying down and gives them 'the bonk'. When the blades are cut out they are aligned with the grain of the steel rather than the placement of the stamp, which is why some of them come out slightly wonky. We do get the odd one that's a bit off but by and large they have been pretty good recently.
The Clifton blades are stamped as a forging and then precision ground and laser cut. The forgings are at just over 1000 degrees when they are stamped and weigh 2 kilos, they are positioned by hand (so the red hot 2kg is at the end of a big pair of tongs) under a 20 foot high drop hammer which comes flying down and gives them 'the bonk'. When the blades are cut out they are aligned with the grain of the steel rather than the placement of the stamp, which is why some of them come out slightly wonky. We do get the odd one that's a bit off but by and large they have been pretty good recently.
graween
Established Member
Just a quick post to say that I confirm the informations about angles I gave.
I juste read again the page in Hack's book.
I have veritas A2 blades and I'm happy with them.
Have a nice day.
I juste read again the page in Hack's book.
I have veritas A2 blades and I'm happy with them.
Have a nice day.
jhwbigley
Established Member
bugbear":2er84x6l said:
maybe that particular forger had only one eye, so poor depth perception, hence the off center mark :lol:
jhb
