Fill up gap between door frame and surface of plasterboard

[alex4564]

Hello everyone, I'm new here so please bear with me as I lean things and hopefully can share what I know as well

One of the sides of my wall is around 10mm off level to my door frame as I built up 3 layers of plasterboard with tecsound in between to lower the noise transfer, as this is a home office. I was thinking about how to fill this gap with a strip of wood, but I need to plain it at an angle and I've no idea how I can best achieve this. maybe there is a DYI friendly tool to assist with that? I was thinking even about using a wood filler, but I guess it would be too much at the top where the difference is 10mm, but maybe at the bottom where there is little difference it would work? I hope the pictures help getting a better idea? Thanks!

 

[Thingybob]

If you have access to some 3mm strip wood place a piece from top to bottom then a shorter piece from where the plaster board is 3mm above the first strip and so on till its all the same then put architrave on and fill in the small tapered gaps left sand and paint top should be even gap so a i piece 10mm thick just an idea

 

[alex4564]

If you have access to some 3mm strip wood place a piece from top to bottom then a shorter piece from where the plaster board is 3mm above the first strip and so on till its all the same then put architrave on and fill in the small tapered gaps left sand and paint top should be even gap so a i piece 10mm thick just an idea

The minimum I could find was 12mm at selco, nothing thinner so far I could see. It is a good idea, I just need to find something like that

 

[niall Y]

Hello everyone, I'm new here so please bear with me as I lean things and hopefully can share what I know as well

One of the sides of my wall is around 10mm off level to my door frame as I built up 3 layers of plasterboard with tecsound in between to lower the noise transfer, as this is a home office. I was thinking about how to fill this gap with a strip of wood, but I need to plain it at an angle and I've no idea how I can best achieve this. maybe there is a DYI friendly tool to assist with that? I was thinking even about using a wood filler, but I guess it would be too much at the top where the difference is 10mm, but maybe at the bottom where there is little difference it would work? I hope the pictures help getting a better idea? Thanks!

The DIY friendly tool is a sharp hard-point saw The easiest way is to push a wide board into the opening, on edge. You can then mark a line on this directly off the plaster wall. If you transfer this line onto the back of the board as well, you can then check if your cut is remaining parallel as you proceed. By doing this, your piece of wood as an off-cut from a much wider board, which makes it easier to do.
Start cutting just to the outside of the line, gradually from both sides of the board, until you feel confident you are on course. The sawn surface can then be cleaned up with a small block plane, to the line

 

[alex4564]

I don't think I'll be able to cut a wood strip with a hand saw like that, I think I'm imagining the wrong procedure. So at the topo the strip would need to be 10mm in depth, at the botton about 3mm. I was thinking about marking a line on the side of the wood strip using the plasterboard, and then perhaps use a power planner to remove the material all the way at that angle market with a pencil. Any thoughts if that would work?

 

[niall Y]

I don't think I'll be able to cut a wood strip with a hand saw like that, I think I'm imagining the wrong procedure. So at the topo the strip would need to be 10mm in depth, at the botton about 3mm. I was thinking about marking a line on the side of the wood strip using the plasterboard, and then perhaps use a power planner to remove the material all the way at that angle market with a pencil. Any thoughts if that would work?

Apologies,cutting to a line with a handsaw is a basic skill that I take for granted, but if you are not used to it, it's going to be a challenge.
Fetching a power planer to a thin strip of wood isn't an option. You could plane the required slope to the edge of a board, and then part that off, but even then you would need to use a handsaw, table-saw, band-saw or circular saw. Failing that, I can only suggest that you mark it up and get someone else to cut it for you. Best of luck

 

[alex4564]

Apologies,cutting to a line with a handsaw is a basic skill that I take for granted, but if you are not used to it, it's going to be a challenge.
Fetching a power planer to a thin strip of wood isn't an option. You could plane the required slope to the edge of a board, and then part that off, but even then you would need to use a handsaw, table-saw, band-saw or circular saw. Failing that, I can only suggest that you mark it up and get someone else to cut it for you. Best of luck

Maybe I'm referring to what I need in the wrong way, apologies as I'm illiterate in this area. In a strip of wood that is 12mm thick, 25mm wide, you are suggesting to reduce the thickness at an angle, from 12mm to 3mm over 1500mm length with a hand saw? I can't possibly imagine how someone can to that by hand. I believe we are refereing to different things?

 

[Thingybob]

Sometimes with woodwork thinking outside the box is the answer i got many lengths of 3mm thick wood from old blinds we were scrapping so maybe carboot will yield something

 

[Thingybob]

Maybe I'm referring to what I need in the wrong way, apologies as I'm illiterate in this area. In a strip of wood that is 12mm thick, 25mm wide, you are suggesting to reduce the thickness at an angle, from 12mm to 3mm over 1500mm length with a hand saw? I can't possibly imagine how someone can to that by hand. I believe we are refereing to different things?

You would cut it from a piece say 25mm x 50mm or 75mm ( thats why woodworkers have loads of scraps stored for another day )

 

[alex4564]

I'm thinking about cutting everything to length and use a routing tool with the plasterboard as a guide to do what I have in mind. I forgot I have a routing tool....

 

[niall Y]

Maybe I'm referring to what I need in the wrong way, apologies as I'm illiterate in this area. In a strip of wood that is 12mm thick, 25mm wide, you are suggesting to reduce the thickness at an angle, from 12mm to 3mm over 1500mm length with a hand saw? I can't possibly imagine how someone can to that by hand. I believe we are refereing to different things?

Yes, it is cut with a handsaw using a piece of timber more the size that Thingybob has suggested. If it is being covered with an architrave, then you could get away with 18mm stock instead as this thinner edge to the door lining will be hidden .

 

[Thingybob]

It would be possible to cut the long taper on a bandsaw free hand if you have or know someone with one ( if you do not possess one at the moment dust drop hints around birthday /christmas to family )

 

[graham88]

Option 1. Considering you have a router the best option I can think of would be to get yourself a length of straight, relatively thick timber and a roll of double stick/carpet tape. Stick your intended piece to the timber to thicken it up. You can then shim one side by the difference of the slope (7mm) and mount the router across 2 more lengths of timber which sit higher than the shimmed side. Plunge your router to the 10mm depth (not the shimmed side) and use the 2 larger pieces as a pair of runners to keep the router level. Start at the 10mm side and work slowly, if it starts to struggle set a depth stop and raise the router a bit, coming back for another pass until it's done. To release your final piece always work from the side of the wood, trying to go on the short ends will almost certainly snap it.

I'd personally just get some 3x2 CLS timber use 2 as your guide rails sitting 3 inches high and the other with 2 inches up. Make sure eveything is securely fastened to a surface so nothing flies off and try to find the straightest bits of timber available. If theres any bending to the wood you might be able to pull it in with screws.

Option 2. If you have a hand plane you could always use that safely. Just make a short pass at the end and then work your way back but still going all the way to the end with each pass. you'll end up taking more material off at one end than the other.

Option 3. Get a flush cut saw. Put a length of masking tape on the plasterboard to prevent scratching and use it as a guide to cut the wood.

 

[graham88]

I found a video of someone making something similar to what I'm on about. The router action is the same concept but he's doing a wide board. You wont need the actual sled because you're working with a few cm as opposed to anything wide. Just imagine it longer, thinner and with a 7mm scrap underneath one end.

 

[Jones]

Instead of a filler strip you could route a rebate (or cut one with a table saw) into the architrave so it sits on the door casing. It will be hard to get a perfect taper but decorators caulk is handy stuff.

 

[MikeJhn]

Expanded metal stop bead nailed to frame then plaster, then Architrave.

 

[Bingy man]

Some excellent suggestions but I’m thinking the op does not have much experience. So a length of suitable timber cut to the length reqd mark your line from top to bottom on the inside edge . Plane the bottom piece to the reqd 3 mm -and follow your line for approx 8 “ then stop. Glue the piece into position and clamp if possible or use panel pins but leave the heads proud. Then simply remove clamps or pins and use your power planer to reduce it to the reqd taper using your line as the guide . Add the architrave and your done . No trying to hold small but long lengths of timber and trying to hold it at the same time .

 

[akstsstjs]

If you are not confident in your skill level with any of the suggestions above, then you could remove the door lining / frame, and install a wider one. Temporary fit the wider one: scribe the line of the plasterboard and trim to suit using a hand saw or jigsaw. Plenty of youtube videos on how to fit a door lining / frame. More work, but maybe not that much more, extra cost, but not that much, and more comfortable skill level. Good luck either way.

 

[alex4564]

the door liner was already proper fixed in place, not feasible to remove. I ended up getting 12, 6 and 4mm wood strips so I could cut them and the steps in between I could smooth with a routing tool. It worked fine, just a minimal cosmetic gaps here and there which I'm planning to use some sort of filler and then hide it completely with paint.

Indeed I'm inexperienced, this was a nice exercise so I'm feeling a lot more confident going forward

 

[Spectric]

which I'm planning to use some sort of filler and then hide it completely with paint.

Decorators caulk fills gaps and if they are to big then use isopon filler P38 first, dries fast and sands easy.