Festool or Makita? Which router to go for?

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Yeah, I think your right, but the 1/4 " 621 has the column dust port and is such a lovely tool to handle, probably the best lager in the world if you could drink one. I bought mine new without really knowing much more than I do now but when assessing my tools after a very prolonged absence from any woodworking I was pleasantly surprised at how well regarded it was, which backed up my own thoughts on the little I knew. I also have an Elu MOF 96 E and that is just lovely to use as well. I sold on a Hitachi M12 to someone on here along with a load of Triton stuff. Never really liked it (in ignorance of its strengths) but wish I had kept it now. I like older tools more than the new stuff so Festool products aren't on any wish list of mine they just seem crammed with stuff I never knew I needed, I'm bloody confused enough as it is.
 
ColeyS1":yhng2inh said:
I know it's not one of your options but I have 3 DW625 routers. Superb machines !

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It looks like the DW625 gets quite good reviews and it's not as hefty as the Makita either. So it looks like a decent option to consider. Do you happen to know if it can be used with a Festool track (through an accessory)?
 
Depends what you want it for. The Makita (or indeed a DeWalt or any other mid range brands) will do almost everything that a woodworker might ever want.

Almost, but not quite everything

For example I regularly use a router to cut 1mm wide grooves for inlay work. This job might occur after already sinking 500 hours or more into a project, so any ****-up at this stage would be horribly expensive.
Inlay-Routing-05.jpg


I trust the Festool 1100 for this job, I don't totally trust other brands. I've seen too many routers that don't plunge absolutely perpendicular to the work piece, so the inlay groove starts out 1.05mm at the plunge point, but it's then 1.00mm for the remainder of the cut. However, it's unlikely that this is relevant to most people. in which case why pay for something you don't need?
 

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Just to confuse the issue more can I throw the 1/2" Trend T11 into the mix? I have this and it's great. About £330 new I think.

It's very similar to the DeWalt 625 (might even be a clone?) but it has a very useful feature in adjusting the height from the base, so if mounted upside down in a router table you don't have to go fiddling about under the table to change the height.
 
Chlad":38b5jmjf said:
ColeyS1":38b5jmjf said:
I know it's not one of your options but I have 3 DW625 routers. Superb machines !

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

It looks like the DW625 gets quite good reviews and it's not as hefty as the Makita either. So it looks like a decent option to consider. Do you happen to know if it can be used with a Festool track (through an accessory)?
I think all the track things are a relatively new thing. Most people I know just use a straight edge.

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
 
custard":2nm2q2aj said:
Depends what you want it for. The Makita (or indeed a DeWalt or any other mid range brands) will do almost everything that a woodworker might ever want.

Almost, but not quite everything

For example I regularly use a router to cut 1mm wide grooves for inlay work. This job might occur after already sinking 500 hours or more into a project, so any ****-up at this stage would be horribly expensive.


I trust the Festool 1100 for this job, I don't totally trust other brands. I've seen too many routers that don't plunge absolutely perpendicular to the work piece, so the inlay groove starts out 1.05mm at the plunge point, but it's then 1.00mm for the remainder of the cut. However, it's unlikely that this is relevant to most people. in which case why pay for something you don't need?

The plunge base for the little Makita does this to an alarming degree. Very noticable when plunge cutting 1/4" slots for cabinet back boards. However, I'm not sure I could get used to the offset handles on the Festool routers. We have a T11EK in the table, but I've never actually used it as a plunge router. Might have to investigate that. I'm tempted by the RP2301, however.

Gary.
 
Having had Makita, Bosch, trend, Stanley, Elu routers in the past, I would suggest the festool 1400 as the all rounder, it will do everything with what I think is the best dust collection. If you can, go and try one in a dealers and then compare with the others, if you can find somewhere to try them!
 
Chlad":26frtp1m said:
I thought tools generally came in 110v and 240v versions and only noticed the 230v recently. I noticed there is a difference in price between the 230v and 240v though. However found a thread in an electricians forum and it seems that the 230v has been brought in to bring us in line with Europe.

It's a "conceit". In other words nothing has really changed except the labels. They are (or should be) still 240V tools, just labeled as 230V.

It comes down to EU "harmonization," to introduce a "standard" voltage across Europe, irrespective of whether or not it is technically sensible.

The Eurocrats decreed, and the technical standards bodies caved in and "just did it". Er, or not.

In practice it's possible to changeover but has expensive ramifications for the UK on 240V, for example damaging some sorts of equipment (such as refrigerator pumps), and affecting power delivery, and so on. Going the other way, 220V to 230V could actually cause stuff to fail too (to burn out).

Technically, the one thing that is truly annoying in all this is that the range of variation in UK mains has been changed, so that a strictly theoretical (must emphasize that) 230V is legal.

It used to be that the power delivery companies were allowed to be +/- 5V centred on 240V. Now, IIRC, it's +5V and -10V (but still "centred" on 240V).

So if your property is fed with low volts in the 230-235V range, you can no longer get it adjusted as you could in the past. If you do ring up and complain, whereas they would have sent a man out to change the tapping on the supply transformer (in the sub station), now they will simply tell you to "go away". Or something. We have had iffy mains in the past - I was told exactly that, but in the past they would have been legally required to put it right.

But it was before, and still is the case, that in any European country using 220V, our 240V tools should still work, but at slightly lower power, and possibly slightly lower efficiency (depending on what they are used for). There's pretty much nothing in the woodworking arsenal that would give up when asked to work at a lower voltage.
. . .

There is a separate issue with the differences across the Pond, because the two continents have different mains frequencies.

Here (UK and the Continent) we are 50Hz, in the Americas and other places where the Yanks have had a strong influence, it's 60Hz. Normally for human-sized tools this makes little difference - the voltage is the issue - but things like power transformers (in substations) are designed for either 50Hz or 60Hz, and won't work efficiently on both. It can sometimes also affect things like big electric motors and the ballasts used in fluorescent lighting (they're not always universal).

People often import tools from the USA, routers and tablesaws being good examples, and either run them on 240:110V transformers, or switch links internally so they work here. Those motors might be slightly slower (60Hz-to-50Hz difference), but otherwise probably work just fine.

Hope that clarifies it a bit.

E.

PS: I find the following very sad, but it shows that the standards-manipulation game has been played for a very long time:

Q: Why do the Americans use 110V?

A: because that requires thicker wires to work efficiently. When their mains was being standardized back at the turn of the last century, extremely wealthy copper mine owners realised 240V in the house would dramatically affect their sales (it can efficiently use thinner wires), and successfully lobbied Congress to restrict the standard to 110V.
 
Sorry, slight tangent.
I love the plug-it system, and want to convert all my tools to this. Is there a cheaper than festool alternative? £16 per tool will cost me a lot...
 
sammy.se":3spggvsh said:
Sorry, slight tangent.
I love the plug-it system, and want to convert all my tools to this. Is there a cheaper than festool alternative? £16 per tool will cost me a lot...

[youtube]WquQYdwcr74[/youtube]

You can pick up the Neutrik power connectors for about £6-8 each which is about half of what a Festool one would set you back.
 
Cool, thanks! Your youTube link suggested another video also - using 'kettle lead' connectors - that might be even cheaper - i'll have a look
 
Trevanion":34m0zyyf said:
You can pick up the Neutrik power connectors for about £6-8 each which is about half of what a Festool one would set you back.
That's really nifty and the locking action looks very positive. My Festool cords have actually held up over time but I'm aware some people on the FOG have had issues needing to replace them over time. Those look a little more robust to me.

sammy.se":34m0zyyf said:
Cool, thanks! Your youTube link suggested another video also - using 'kettle lead' connectors - that might be even cheaper - i'll have a look
Bear in mind that kettle (euro) mains plugs and sockets won't lock and will pull out in the right circumstance which could be damaging to your work and possibly dangerous depending on the tool being powered. For info, CPC (Farnell) is possibly the best place to order them if you go the Neutrik route; https://cpc.farnell.com/search?st=neutr ... 3%20mx%20w Farnell direct and RS will ask for an account to be setup (I know RS still do).
 
https://www.toolstation.com/flex-connec ... hstr=82342

When I had to use 15' - 20' leads on everything, I used connectors similar to these. The ones I used had two pins that fitted three pin ones on the lead, so there was always an earth for the occasional thing I used needed it. The one warning I would give if you go down any of these routes is put the connector either very close to the tool or more than four feet from it, otherwise the connector will catch on the edge every sheet you ever work on.
 
Neutrik have an excellent reputation in professional audio. They've been making mains connectors for a very long time, and they have had several goes at a good compact mains connector down the years, starting with the LNE-XLR series:
XLR-LNE.png

They didn't design that, IIRC, but were a second-source manufacturer (alongside Cannon - that's one of the Cannon ones in the pic, but Neutrik ones mate with them) for high-volume users like the BBC. The LNE series is no longer available, but was (and still is) a really good connector, but it's not ***** proof and requires a soldering iron, so not suitable for non-professional use. It was banned ostensibly because the power pins could be touched.

Their current Powercon range is pretty good, and based on their "Speakon" range for loudspeakers. I'd go for them over cheaper alternatives, but watch out for copies. The Chinese were always trying to copy their innovations, with rather mixed results.

Do, however, bear in mind they are designed for specific sizes of cable - they are not like 13A plugs where you can stuff practically anything in the back and get it to connect. As long as you bear that in mind, and that you need to take care in making them up onto cables (and a little care in use), they should serve well. They are screw-terminal inside, and rated at 16A (more than adequate for handheld tools in the UK). They also have a really good cable clamp/strain relief, and are claimed to be waterproof.
 

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oh im late.....

I have the OF1400 and a recently purchased DW625, << that one is purely for a table.

I can only compare the 2, but the festools wind down is much quicker, the power is much smoother and just feels like it doesn't want to kill you. it's also quieter than the DW625 but that's probably got to do with the 600w power difference. Lastly the ratchet for bit change is a nice touch as is the compatibility with all the other stuff like tracks.

Im also looking for a small router for light work and was looking at the Makita, but the 18v version.
 
I have the Makita 1/4” kit 230v and it’s very good. It was priced as a bare top and with accessories. I like the slow start and not had problems with dust collection using the bag. I make lots of small jigs and it works well. It’s also lightweight which makes it a joy to use. For 90% of time I use the plunge adapter but edge adaptor is useful and lighter. Would buy again if necessary. Probably illogical, but one Makita product is followed by another one... seem to trust that what they make is well thought through and fit for purpose.

The lead is longer than most power tool leads and I haven’t considered it a problem because I have sockets around the workshop and an extension (which I like to avoid using).

Once or twice I wanted a 1/2” router because there was a router bit that I wanted but there’s usually another way. I once tried an but extension - seemed robust but quickly turned 90 degrees and ugly even without a bit.

Currently into cordless tools but for me “corded” router is fine. 240v is what we think of as UK electricity but it’s actually 230v and I measured it at 235v. 110v is for contractors to use with a transformer. NB capacity required for the transformer is usually much higher than the tool needs so costs and weight increase rapidly.
 
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