Festool Kapex 120 & 88 model - What's the difference

[Bluekingfisher]

Ladies/Gents,

I have been looking at the Festool Kapex 10" mitre saw, both the KS 88 and KS 120 variants.

In a nutshell, what is the difference between them apart from £200. Is one just a newer improved version of the other or does one have extras included.

Is it fair to say they are both 10" saws?

Any help would be much appreciated.

David

 

[petermillard]

As I understand it, the KS 88 is a KS 120 without...

Easily accessible fine bevel adjustment
The angle unit
The 'special cutting position' (AKA tall mitre latch)
The magnetic blade brake (has regular electronic blade braking)
Lasers.

HTH Pete

 

[Bluekingfisher]

Thanks Pete, that now makes sense, just reading the specs of the saw it wasn't apparent. Although those extras may come in handy.

Thanks for letting me know.

David

 

[petermillard]

NP. When the Kapex 88 came out Festool had a comparison chart on their website, but for some reason they don't seem to have it now. The laser is the thing that I wouldn't want to be without! though

Cheers, Pete.

 

[Bluekingfisher]

Pete, you have mail

 

[shed9]

Given the difference of features and the difference of £200 when talking about a Festool product - I can only imagine a self kicking exercise if not going the 120 route.

That said, I would be interested if there is a sound reason for the 88 over the 120.

 

[PAC1]

I have been going through the same issues. For me it comes down to £230 for two lasers. I cannot decide I have coped without for 34 years. But equally I am upgrading to a new level of saw so why gripe about one if its main features. Are the lasers that useful?

 

[chippy1970]

I thought it was the depth of cut also. I know the 120 will cut a max of 120 tall skirting standing vertical. Maybe the 88 doesn't have the special setting for cutting 120 deep and only does 88. Just a guess

 

[PAC1]

if depth of cut was the issue I would buy the Bosch as the Bosch will cut deeper and comes with lasers as well. I am not impressed with the 120 depth it is not really that deep a cut and why not lay the board flat and push the saw over to 45

 

[custard]

Are the lasers that useful?

If they're accurate they're great. On my Ryobi drill press they're just approximations of where the drill bit may or may not go...so worse than useless...on the Festool Kapex I had they were consistently dead on, and adjustable if accuracy ever slipped, so very useful indeed.

 

[petermillard]

On the Festool Kapex I had they were consistently dead on, and adjustable if accuracy ever slipped, so very useful indeed.

This, exactly. I rarely use the other bells and whistles on my Kapex, but the lasers are used on every cut.

 

[Bremner]

On the Festool Kapex I had they were consistently dead on, and adjustable if accuracy ever slipped, so very useful indeed.

This, exactly. I rarely use the other bells and whistles on my Kapex, but the lasers are used on every cut.

Out of curiosity where the lasers on you kapex dead on out of the box? The lasers on mine are way out, I just haven't got round to adjusting them.

 

[custard]

On the Festool Kapex I had they were consistently dead on, and adjustable if accuracy ever slipped, so very useful indeed.

This, exactly. I rarely use the other bells and whistles on my Kapex, but the lasers are used on every cut.

Out of curiosity where the lasers on you kapex dead on out of the box? The lasers on mine are way out, I just haven't got round to adjusting them.

It's been a while since I had a Kapex (I sold it when I got a table saw with a really big and really accurate sliding table), but I'm pretty sure the lasers on mine were also a touch out, I seem to recall that I had to cut through a paper label on the casing to make the adjustment, which was irritating as it made the machine look very "used" before it had really been used at all! But after that it was extremely accurate and never needed re-adjusting.

I think many people believe that Festool stuff works perfectly right out of the box but that's not always true. Their Domino machines for example often need calibrating to get the curser accurately adjusted, it's not a big or difficult job but I'm surprised at how many woodworkers don't know or just don't bother and put up small misalignments. Seems crazy to pay Festool prices and then not put in a bit of effort to get Festool precision.

 

[Bremner]

I think many people believe that Festool stuff works perfectly right out of the box but that's not always true. Their Domino machines for example often need calibrating to get the curser accurately adjusted, it's not a big or difficult job but I'm surprised at how many woodworkers don't know or just don't bother and put up small misalignments. Seems crazy to pay Festool prices and then not put in a bit of effort to get Festool precision.

I have had a quick go at adjustments like you said making holes in the card on the side, ugly yes. But theres 5 or 6 different adjustments and every time you get one right it throws out the other ones, I just need to spend a few hours fettling it.

 

[custard]

I think many people believe that Festool stuff works perfectly right out of the box but that's not always true. Their Domino machines for example often need calibrating to get the curser accurately adjusted, it's not a big or difficult job but I'm surprised at how many woodworkers don't know or just don't bother and put up small misalignments. Seems crazy to pay Festool prices and then not put in a bit of effort to get Festool precision.

I have had a quick go at adjustments like you said making holes in the card on the side, ugly yes. But theres 5 or 6 different adjustments and every time you get one right it throws out the other ones, I just need to spend a few hours fettling it.

Hello Bremner, there's a ton of kit out there that's just like that, you fix one thing and something else goes adrift! I generally find it's best to work through all the adjustments aiming for roughly right, then work through them all again in the same order aiming for nearly right, then work through them all one final time aiming for exactly right. It's a pain, but once you get yourself in the mindset that it's not going to come good on the first attempt it makes the whole process less frustrating and more constructive. Good luck!

 

[Bluekingfisher]

I had a chance to look at one the other day for the first time and get hands on as it were. I have to say looking at it I was more than a little disappointed. I just thought it looked cheap. Particularly the plastic, which seemed the nasty brittle stuff likely to snap off easily. In addition the edges were in some parts rough as if not smoothed off when it came out of the mould. I'm sure the working parts are good, there are enough fans to support this aspect but the clamps, casings, guard and trigger all seemed what you would expect to see on a low budget model.

Just my opinion of course.

The price tag was £1142.00