Featheredge cladding.

[garywayne]

The next step to building my shed is to fix the featheredge cladding. What i'm not sure about is how I go about starting off. The land that the shed is on slopes from left to right.

Not a very good picture, but I hope you get the idea.

So, how do I start the cladding off keeping it level?

All information greatly received.

 

[OLD]

I would think if the height difference is small you could loose it in the distance to under the windows by adjusting the overlaps using story boards and string line, it will not be seen . larger distances could be fixed by a solid timber starter board suitably tapered and profiled to accept the feather edge cladding

 

[Tusses]

how much gradient are we talking about ?

 

[Digit]

On the assumption that the floor is level then so should the cladding be likewise.

Roy.

 

[johnf]

the clading should always be level cut it in at the bottom

 

[mailee]

Use a spirit level.

 

[dennis]

The floor and roof should be parallel, so just mark the amount of lap on the base and work your way up. Keep checking that you are keeping parallel to the roof, especially as you get higher. You could nail a temporary batten up the outside of each corner, set out with each board marked, and if left sticking proud is something to butt the boards to, and also fix a string line to owing to the length of the workshop, making sure that it is always kept tight. If not using a damproof membrane all setting out can be done on the studs,but it is still handy to have a stop lath up the corners.

Dennis

 

[cornucopia]

set the bottom one level with a spirit level /string line then work your way up using a spacer, if there is allot of runout then a wedge shaped board at the bottom will be less noticable.
what overlap are you going to be giving the boards? and how far apart are the supports going to be? i found with 5" boards you need at least an 1 1/2" overlap to prevent gaps apperaing in the summer months and supports every 16-18" to stop the boards from twisting to bits, my experince was with fence panel quality tanalised boards.

 

[dennis]

In this instance I would not bother about level too much, as sometimes it can make a job look worse using tapered boards to get level. As I said I would probably give an equal amount of lap on the base, alright you can wangle it a bit if it is a long way out of level but it is better to go by appearance than dead level.I would then fix a temporary batten up each corner and set out for how many boards and how much lap. If it is not paralell to the roof then divide the difference by the amount of boards and give this much extra lap on each board.It looks best if the top board is the same width as the amount showing on the other boards,so if there is 4inch showing on each board work it so that the top board is 4inch wide. It is much better to spend extra time on the setting out, and get it to your satisfaction before starting boarding.But as I say trying to work dead level in every instance, does not always give the best results.


Dennis

 

[Digit]

Sloping cladding to disguise a slope, as opposed to 'stepping', has the disadvantage of running any water to one end of the boards as opposed to having it drip off along the bottom.

Roy.

 

[dennis]

Unless it is a long way out of level the amount of water that would follow along featherboard would be negligible.What happens to the water on diagonal cladding. I stand by what I have said that being dead level is not as important in this instance, as looking right, which tapered boards do not.

Dennis

 

[Digit]

which tapered boards do not.

Agreed! So step 'em, assuming that the cladding is in short lengths.

Roy.

 

[dennis]

Stepping in this case would look even worse than a tapered board. I cannot see the base being much out of level anyway.Stepping is used on the steepest gradients, and using tapered boards falls between stepping and wangling the boards slightly out of level.


Dennis

 

[garywayne]

Thank you all for replying to my dilemma.

As some of you know, I have a gammy leg, so grovelling about at ground level is extremely difficult and painful. So I am seeking the easyest way to accomplish this.

With all of your ideas and a bit of thinking, I came up with the idea of digging out a small trench, (just a small spade wide), all the way round the shed. By doing this I will be able to start the cladding of level and work my way up. In the trench I will lay some weed represent membrane and pea shingle for drainage.

Thank you all for your input.