farmhouse table

[carlb40]

Can't help on the design front, but just wondering how these compare price wise to lavers?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1775-Waney-Oa ... 3f23d7661f

He is always listing similar boards to this.

 

[marcros]

It isnt really like for like- it is planed wayney edge stuff, whereas lavers is sawn square edged stock. Your link looks nice stock for the right project though. I have another place that is cheaper but is a good drive away, but on this project, I could do without having to rip down wayney edged stock. Lavers is also next to work which means that I dont need to take a day off to go mid-week!

For special timber I would go further afield, but for "normal" euro oak, they should have what I want.

Dibs and I did buy some ready planed up oak from British Hardwoods late last year. Nice stuff, and meant that we could do some quick projects with it, without having to do a lot of prep work. Works out quite expensive if not on special offer though

 

[Togalosh]

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Practical-Desig ... ure+making

This book gave me the confidence to make my dining table with drawers & should have all the info you need to make your mind up about sizing, spacing & shows you about human proportions as well as drawer supports etc. I like this book.

I measured all the dining tables & dining table drawers I came across (making repeated trips to certain tea shops) & worked out why some tables felt better to sit at than others & made my descisions accordingly.

 

[marcros]

i am slowly making some progress on this project, and learning some things along the way. I have the legs laminated, dimensioned and one of the two mortices cut on each. I did make a small mistake on one, cutting a mortice too long, whilst trying to rush. I have glued a block in, but will inlay a veneer to get a perfect sized piece. I doubt it will actually be seen in the finished piece. I need to cut the tapers- I haven't decided whether to do it on the bandsaw (probably), or build a sled for the thicknesser. The latter is probably overkill for a one off job. I have no tablesaw to build a jig for.

The long side rails are dimensioned, need cutting to length and will have their haunched tenons cut shortly. The ends are to have drawers in, and I have dimensioned the piece running under the front to size (tenons to be done with above), and have thicknessed down the drawer fronts, so that they are equal to each other, and flat. I will take some pics, but at the moment it is just a stack of planed up timber!

I think that I am short on timber to use for drawer sides and backs. I need to have a measure up, but I was thinking of the drawers being 12" front to back, and about 24" wide. I wonder whether they should be longer front to back. I cant remember what i asked the yard to cross cut it to...

Now for some questions:

1. What are the classic combinations, if I use a contrasting timber with the oak for the drawer sides and back? I was thinking of American White Ash, Maple. I could buy another board of oak if need be, but it would be nice to make a feature of the dovetails. The finishes will be oil for the fronts, and sanding sealer for the sides and back.

2. The drawer fronts are currently dimensioned to 1". They will be wide- 24" and about 3 1/8" deep. Is 1" a bit too thick? I dont have anything to reference it on.

3. The end pieces, below the drawer are 7/8" (finished) x inch and a bit (i forget exactly what). They are fitted so that the 7/8" shows from the end of the table. If i do a 3/8" mortice, there isnt any room to drawbore it from the only face I can access it. Will a nice tight blind mortice be sufficient? I do not want to fox wedge it, because I dont trust myself to do it correctly. I could do a sliding dovetail if I have to, which would be a better job, but is high risk! I fear that I have just answered my own question there...

Cheers
Mark

 

[Phil Pascoe]

A well fitted mortice and decent glue will do. I think from some of your other posts that you have a bit of a fetish about drawboring mortices - very good they are in the right circumstances, but more often than not unneccessary. How often do you join things you can't cramp up?

 

[Jacob]

I think you really need to go and look at a few tables. Pointless working in the dark.
Amongst other things - forget draw boring and sliding DTs.
LOOK AT TABLES. All the answers are there.

 

[MickCheese]

For your drawer sides and back I would go with something cheaper like tulipwood. It's white so will show off your dovetails and very easy to work with.

Mick