Extravagant...moi?

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Mr Ed

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This is an tool I waited quite a while for, but the reality is no disappointment. Perfectly weighted, beautiful to hold and functions exactly as it should. When its sat on the bench there is an overwhelming desire to pick it up and use it.

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(its a mallet by the way, not a dildo)

Ed
 
EdSutton":1nwosues said:
(its a mallet by the way, not a dildo)

I nearly spat my tea over my laptop when I read that.

Nice mallet though - what sort of wood is it?

-Tom
 
Thanks for clearing that up Ed!

Great mallet, there's something about a good mallet that makes you want to use it
 
DeepBlue":2xtlur5i said:
EdSutton":2xtlur5i said:
(its a mallet by the way, not a dildo)

I nearly spat my tea over my laptop when I read that.

Nice mallet though - what sort of wood is it?

-Tom

The handle is African Blackwood, the head is quilted maple that is somehow infused with acrylic to make it more or less impervious to impact.

Ed
 
EdSutton":1sroprjc said:
DeepBlue":1sroprjc said:
EdSutton":1sroprjc said:
(its a mallet by the way, not a dildo)

I nearly spat my tea over my laptop when I read that.

Nice mallet though - what sort of wood is it?

-Tom

The handle is African Blackwood, the head is quilted maple that is somehow infused with acrylic to make it more or less impervious to impact.

Ed
I tested one of the new BS chisels where the handle (maple in this case) was impregnated with acrylic. I gave it some really hard thumps with my lignum maul...not a sign of any damage on the top of the chisel. Impressive :wink: - Rob
 
I happen to have something to rival that... all will be revealed soon ;)

:tool: :tool:
 
I know I'm a bit of an ***** (shut up Tom!), but I can't get my head around this?

You are using a mallet so hard it's impervious to damage, thus to my way of thinking additional needless damage (shocks) is being taken (absorbed) by the chisel handles.

I find dings / depressions in my softish ash mallets (that can take all of 30 minutes to make out of a nil value log) reassuring evidence that my precious box handled chisels are not getting damaged.
 
Lurker,

I guess that the idea is that if you have a hard mallet and a hard chisel handle then more of the kinetic energy is transfered from the mallet, through the chisel into the piece being cut. If you are putting dents into something (be it chisel or mallet) then that indicates energy being used up.

Or the voices in my head could be telling me complete rubbish again.
 
frugal":ryurzn4t said:
Lurker,

I guess that the idea is that if you have a hard mallet and a hard chisel handle then more of the kinetic energy is transfered from the mallet, through the chisel into the piece being cut. If you are putting dents into something (be it chisel or mallet) then that indicates energy being used up.

Or the voices in my head could be telling me complete rubbish again.

In that case I might just as well use my claw hammer then ?
 
frugal":2877vaoq said:
Lurker,

I guess that the idea is that if you have a hard mallet and a hard chisel handle then more of the kinetic energy is transfered from the mallet, through the chisel into the piece being cut. If you are putting dents into something (be it chisel or mallet) then that indicates energy being used up.

Or the voices in my head could be telling me complete rubbish again.

Physics tells me you are correct, hard mallet for max energy transfer. Nice one Ed
 
Physics ought to also tell you that if you hit two hard items together something has to give (the energy has to go somewhere).

Some (most) energy is expended in the chisel cutting action but the rest is used up damaging either the mallet or the chisel handle.

The wooden mallet is a compromise between using a striking tool like a steel lump hammer & hitting the chisel with a sponge
 
lurker":2f6lcw2e said:
In that case I might just as well use my claw hammer then ?

Why not, Japanese carpentry hammers are metal headed and have a cross section of about the same as a claw hammer. You just have to ensure that either your chisels are made of a hard enough substance to take it, or that they have hoops at the top to stop the wood mushrooming.
 
frugal":15hsjctl said:
lurker":15hsjctl said:
In that case I might just as well use my claw hammer then ?

Why not, Japanese carpentry hammers are metal headed and have a cross section of about the same as a claw hammer. You just have to ensure that either your chisels are made of a hard enough substance to take it, or that they have hoops at the top to stop the wood mushrooming.

But............. my marples box handle chisels dont have a hoop so I''ll pass on the jap hammer thanks very much.
But in passing make the comment that Jap carpentry traditionally uses wood which is fairly soft ( note that I did not say softwoods :lol: )
 
lurker":2tb1ugnp said:
frugal":2tb1ugnp said:
lurker":2tb1ugnp said:
In that case I might just as well use my claw hammer then ?

Why not, Japanese carpentry hammers are metal headed and have a cross section of about the same as a claw hammer. You just have to ensure that either your chisels are made of a hard enough substance to take it, or that they have hoops at the top to stop the wood mushrooming.

But............. my marples box handle chisels dont have a hoop so I''ll pass on the jap hammer thanks very much.
But in passing make the comment that Jap carpentry traditionally uses wood which is fairly soft ( note that I did not say softwoods :lol: )

the other day we were widening some sign mortices in the feild and i was reduced to using the side of a big adjustable spanner as a whacker - some numpty having borrowed the mallet and the claw hammer out of the feild kit and not put them back

mind you the chisels in the field kit are the polycarb handled 5.99 a set from B&Q vareity - the nice chisels stay in the 'shop
 
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