I'm modifying a broken block plane to be a low angle bevel down with chipbreaker one handed mini smoother. The build notes and pictures are at https://bridgerberdel.wordpress.com
experimental plane
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Vann
Established Member
Interesting :!:
At 35° there won't be a lot of clearance between the bevel and the wood - so it'll be interesting to see how that works out. But even if you have to settle for 40° you'll still be better of than with a low-angle bevel-up block plane. A 40 EP is hard to achieve any other way. Take your standard LA block plane with a 12° bed. Add a 25° primary bevel and a 5° micro bevel (i.e 30 ) - 12° + 25° + 5° = 42° EP. So you'll still be 2° better off with your bevel down arrangement (or 7° better off if the 35° bed works okay).
But you need to make that cap-iron a two-piece :mrgreen:
Cheers, Vann.
At 35° there won't be a lot of clearance between the bevel and the wood - so it'll be interesting to see how that works out. But even if you have to settle for 40° you'll still be better of than with a low-angle bevel-up block plane. A 40 EP is hard to achieve any other way. Take your standard LA block plane with a 12° bed. Add a 25° primary bevel and a 5° micro bevel (i.e 30 ) - 12° + 25° + 5° = 42° EP. So you'll still be 2° better off with your bevel down arrangement (or 7° better off if the 35° bed works okay).
But you need to make that cap-iron a two-piece :mrgreen:
Cheers, Vann.
Its bedded at 35° now and working fine. The iron is ground at a rather low angle, which will likely mean that edge retention won't be one of this plane's strong points. I'm after an easy cutting small smoother that leaves a fine surface on straight grained woods, and given that low included angle on the iron probably best for soft woods.
tobytools
Established Member
Really cool. Kep it up 
TT
TT
bugbear
Established Member
bridger":1m79yl3d said:
I like the pictured walnut totes further down the page - any accompanying text?
BugBear
Cheshirechappie
Established Member
Interesting - that should end up about the same size as a No. 1, but with a slightly different blade geometry.
Not wishing to be in any way impertinent, but have you any plans for making it single-hand-friendly? Perhaps by reinstating the front knob as a finger rest, and shaping the wedge top to be comfortable to the palm?
It will be interesting to see how it compares in use with a normal block plane with a blade sharpened to give the same effective pitch.
Edit to add - having just read 'part 1', I see you were ahead of me with the No. 1 link! - though I believe they suffer from a similar 'how do you hold it?' conundrum. The modified block plane might actually be better in this respect.
Not wishing to be in any way impertinent, but have you any plans for making it single-hand-friendly? Perhaps by reinstating the front knob as a finger rest, and shaping the wedge top to be comfortable to the palm?
It will be interesting to see how it compares in use with a normal block plane with a blade sharpened to give the same effective pitch.
Edit to add - having just read 'part 1', I see you were ahead of me with the No. 1 link! - though I believe they suffer from a similar 'how do you hold it?' conundrum. The modified block plane might actually be better in this respect.
jimi43
Established Member
Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)
Established Member
I was waiting for you to post yours Jimi
That was a while back now. Time flies. I always thought that you did a better job of your plane than mine, below ...
I made a couple, but this one came from a Stanley #3 ....
Bevel up design with 25 degree bed. Used with a 35 degree bevel (making it easy to hone free hand), the cutting angle is 60 degrees. This has remained one of the best smoothers I have ever used, is very reliable, and ever-so delightful to use.
Regards from Perth
Derek
That was a while back now. Time flies. I always thought that you did a better job of your plane than mine, below ...
I made a couple, but this one came from a Stanley #3 ....
Bevel up design with 25 degree bed. Used with a 35 degree bevel (making it easy to hone free hand), the cutting angle is 60 degrees. This has remained one of the best smoothers I have ever used, is very reliable, and ever-so delightful to use.
Regards from Perth
Derek
Cheshirechappie":30qe8imq said:
It is almost exactly the same dimensions as my #2. I'll have to find a smaller block plane to make a #1 size.
I'll fit the infills oversize and shape them to fit. I'm thinking to fit a front infill as well.
bugbear":26hrq8r9 said:
I suppose I should post some. I still need to figure out tagging in WordPress. Really, I just had some scraps of figured walnut and needed some totes. I did make them a little fatter than stock stanley and with longer horns.
I was waiting for you to post yours Jimi
That was a while back now. Time flies. I always thought that you did a better job of your plane than mine, below ...
I made a couple, but this one came from a Stanley #3 ....
Bevel up design with 25 degree bed. Used with a 35 degree bevel (making it easy to hone free hand), the cutting angle is 60 degrees. This has remained one of the best smoothers I have ever used, is very reliable, and ever-so delightful to use.
Regards from Perth
Derek
I remember that. Your bailey infill was one of the things that got me thinking down this path....m
jimi43
Established Member
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