Euro hinges in MDF

[Nick W]

Oh how the mighty are fallen. I have a job which requires fitting euro hinges into MDF . Has anyone had experience of this? What screws should I use to ensure that they don't strip/pull out, or would it be better to use clip in hinges? What would be the best option for attaching the mounting plates to the side panels (also MDF) .I'm afraid that edging the panels in real wood is not an option for this job.

Also I'm guessing that confirmats would be best for holding the carcase together. Does anyone have any better ideas, given that I will need to assemble on site.

TIA

 

[Colin C]

Hi Nick
I am making a MDF unit at the moment and have normal screws for both sides, I have used 20mm screws so that there should be no pull out [-o< .
If put it tegether I have used the cam fixings and I am very happy with themHere
and Here
I hope this helps
Colin
Ps I have been using that router for the doors , Thanks

 

[Paul Chapman]

Hi Nick,

There's a lot of information on the Woodfit site about fitting these hinges http://www.woodfit.com/index.php?sid=23 ... &cPath=221

One snag with the clip in type is that you need to drill three holes for the hinge. Woodfit do a jig for this http://www.woodfit.com/product_info.php ... illing+Jig but it's a lot of faffing about. I would go with the screw-fitting - they are not normally a problem :wink:

Paul

 

[Argee]

The screws holding the male part of the hinge are only needed to locate the hinge in the socket - they bear no weight, they take very little load, assuming the socket is an accurate fit - so you can use almost any suitable size, there is no need to use clip-ins.

For fixing to the MDF carcass, a coarse-thread 17mm screw is plenty for 18mm carcasses. Clip-on hinges will make the job slightly easier. You can get dowel fixing hinge plates, but I've never had any trouble using screws. Just ensure that you get the correct mounting plates for the style you need - full overlay, half overlay or inset.

Ray.

 

[engineer one]

i have used these in both mdf and mfc, and the biggest problem is
laying out the screws in a straight line at the right distance from the
side of the cabinet.
worth a little jig, or at least an engineers square to ensure that the
tongue is square to the face of the cabinet. same for the sunk hinge part.

must say although i like the veritas jig borer, it is a pain having to clear
the waste frequently but all those boring drills seem to have that problem.

for most uses you can use 16mm spax type screws. if unsure, then
drill for the plastic inserts and hammer in they work well.

isaac lord have a good selection in their warehouse normally.

i would be scared to use 17 mm on 18mm because of break out, but
maybe with practice.

for some reason the stresses seem to be spread so that these small
screws won't pull out. think it is because the main part of the hinge
is recessed into the door, so has greated difficulty pulling out.
not sure but that is my feeling.

so how do we get you back to the lofty heights :lol:

all the best
paul :wink:

 

[Colin C]

Hi Nick
I almost forget that I asked about these hinges a little while agoo and there should be some good info in there for you
here

 

[jasonB]

I've done hundreads into MDF, I use 3.5x16mm reisser screws (not the R2 Cutters), the next length up is 20mm but there is a risk of them bulging the surface or wven poping through.

If you are worried about the plates pulling off you can always use the third screw hole once the doors have been adjusted.

I prefer the clip on hinges especially for tall wardrobe doors as its easier than trying to hold the door, alighn 4-5 hinges and screw the hinge retaining screw in. The cam adjustable mounting plates are handy as well though they cost a bit more.

For asswmbly I use biscuits for alighment and Screwfix Powerdrivesinto a 3mm pilot hole to stop splitting the edges.

Jason

 

[Nick W]

Thanks for the info guys, now to push it a little bit further ...

How about Ultralight MDF? Just trying to save :
a) my back
b) a few pennies
but does that take screws too, or is that a bridge too far?

 

[mailee]

Yes I too have fitted these hinges into MDF and had no problems with them. I used the original screws without any misshap. When you consider that normally these hinges are fitted into chipboard then MDF is a better alternative.

 

[jasonB]

Nick, if you are going to paint or finish the doors in any way, particularly the edges then forget the Ultralight stuff its much too "fluffy" and open pored on the sides. Any saving in weight will be lost in the extra prep time.

If its just bare MDF them maybe an extra hinge just to be safe if they are very large doors.

Jason

 

[Nick W]

Thanks Jason.

 

[tim]

Nick, if you are going to paint or finish the doors in any way, particularly the edges then forget the Ultralight stuff its much too "fluffy" and open pored on the sides. Any saving in weight will be lost in the extra prep time.

If its just bare MDF them maybe an extra hinge just to be safe if they are very large doors.

Jason

I gave up using Ultralight for exactly the reasons you described!

Cheers

Tim