AjohnG
New member
Hi all
Just found your website. Some years ago I worked for the importers of the inca machinery. The euro 260 is a realtivley small accurate, bandsaw, but the tracking adjuster is very sensitive, a very slight movement can effect a significant change to the tracking. The trick to getting the saw to run true is to slide back the thrust bearings, fully open up the guides and rotate the blade using the bottom wheel. Once you have it running with the gullets of the teeth just on the edge of the rubber tyres (if you have the teeth running on the tyre it damages it and rolls the set of the inside of the blade, which means that the blade will never run true when cutting, i.e. it pulls of to the side) then bring the guide - thrust bearin carrier forward untill the guides are positioned a 16th of an inch or so below the gullets and adjust them so that there is are about the thickness of a piece of paper clearence in total on each pair, the blade should rotate freely without any drag being decernable, then bring the thrust bearings up to the back of the blade so they just touch. ensure all lock screws are done up tight. re fit cover and try. If there is a crack in the bottom wheel, it will either need replacing or welding, reboring and the grub screw thread re tapping. If the wheel is free to move on the shaft you will never get it to track, let alone the blade to stay on the wheels. that said I have euro 260 myself and would not want to be with out it.
Just found your website. Some years ago I worked for the importers of the inca machinery. The euro 260 is a realtivley small accurate, bandsaw, but the tracking adjuster is very sensitive, a very slight movement can effect a significant change to the tracking. The trick to getting the saw to run true is to slide back the thrust bearings, fully open up the guides and rotate the blade using the bottom wheel. Once you have it running with the gullets of the teeth just on the edge of the rubber tyres (if you have the teeth running on the tyre it damages it and rolls the set of the inside of the blade, which means that the blade will never run true when cutting, i.e. it pulls of to the side) then bring the guide - thrust bearin carrier forward untill the guides are positioned a 16th of an inch or so below the gullets and adjust them so that there is are about the thickness of a piece of paper clearence in total on each pair, the blade should rotate freely without any drag being decernable, then bring the thrust bearings up to the back of the blade so they just touch. ensure all lock screws are done up tight. re fit cover and try. If there is a crack in the bottom wheel, it will either need replacing or welding, reboring and the grub screw thread re tapping. If the wheel is free to move on the shaft you will never get it to track, let alone the blade to stay on the wheels. that said I have euro 260 myself and would not want to be with out it.
