Epoxy Resins

[Rewound]

What resin would you use to secure a wood turning chisel into its handle ? I have some stuff referred to as "Coating Epoxy Resin" which I am experimenting with, but it doesnt seem to be drying very quickly (5 days and it is still a little viscous) (I did mix it 2:1 as per instructions)

What should I be buying ?

 

[Inspector]

I would use an adhesive epoxy. Araldite is a brand that should be easy to find. Coating epoxy resin would be what you look for when you want a thick finish on a bar top or live edge table. By thick I mean 2mm to 6 mm thick. Casting epoxy is for river tables etc.

Pete.

 

[Rewound]

I would have thought the araldites to be a bit viscous, I was thinking these very liquid resins would fill up the gaps btween the metal chisel and the inside of the handle better ?

 

[Orraloon]

As Pete said araldite or any other two part epoxy glue. I would go for the 1 hour set rather than the 5 min stuff. The quick dry can be more brittle.
The glue will flow better with some gentle heat. If it is a tapered tang then you need a stepped hole narrowing towards the bottom. I usually dont even need glue with a tapered tang tool.
Regards
John

 

[hlvd]

I would have thought the araldites to be a bit viscous, I was thinking these very liquid resins would fill up the gaps btween the metal chisel and the inside of the handle better ?

You’re overthinking this, Araldite is more than enough to secure a chisel handle.

 

[Inspector]

The only thing you need to do is provide an avenue for excess epoxy to squeeze out when you put it together just like we do when using dowels. A small groove along the steel or handle (easier), a deeper hole to have a space for the glue or a small drilled hole out the side (ugly). Too much glue with no room to escape will prevent the tool from seating to the depth you want. If the hole is a loose fit the glue can escape.
Pete

 

[peterw3035]

As Pete said araldite or any other two part epoxy glue. I would go for the 1 hour set rather than the 5 min stuff. The quick dry can be more brittle.
The glue will flow better with some gentle heat. If it is a tapered tang then you need a stepped hole narrowing towards the bottom. I usually dont even need glue with a tapered tang tool.
Regards
John

Is there such a thing as a narrow tapering drill bit. Or do you just drill a series of increasing diameter holes?

 

[Rewound]

I'm going to be using 10mm sq bar (carbide tipped tool thing). I am intending drilling a 12mm hole about 5" up the handle. then round off the edge of the steel bar until it just fits in.
Don't have any areldite, but have plenty of this 'coating epoxy resin' I will have the bar reasonably tight anyway, so this very thin liquid resin won't have a lot to do. It should be OK ?

I tried this with a 5mm dia nail last night into a 6mm dia hole, used a bit more hardener than recomended, 16 hours later, its rock solid, can't get the nail back out.

 

[alex robinson]

I'm going to be using 10mm sq bar (carbide tipped tool thing). I am intending drilling a 12mm hole about 5" up the handle. then round off the edge of the steel bar until it just fits in.
Don't have any areldite, but have plenty of this 'coating epoxy resin' I will have the bar reasonably tight anyway, so this very thin liquid resin won't have a lot to do. It should be OK ?

I tried this with a 5mm dia nail last night into a 6mm dia hole, used a bit more hardener than recomended, 16 hours later, its rock solid, can't get the nail back out.

I think you will be fine. Don't over think it - anything that gives a bit of extra hold should be good enough!

 

[Jake]

The best adhesive bonds with epoxy have the glue filled with fibres because the glue line should not be too thin and the plastic is too brittle if not reinforced with the fibre. PM me your address and I'll send you an envelope full which will do more than a few handles - I have a big West Systems tub of it.

 

[Orraloon]

Is there such a thing as a narrow tapering drill bit. Or do you just drill a series of increasing diameter holes?

Different diameter drill bits. Why its called stepped.
Regards
John

 

[Mike57]

If you really need a continuous taper there are tapered reamers available on Amazon.

 

[Rewound]

I would have thought you would taper something if you wanted it to come back out (think morse taper) its more likely to stay in if it is all the same width,

 

[Inspector]

There are no standard tapers for the tangs of woodworking tools so tapered drills for them weren't made. Blacksmith would make the tool and the woodworker would make and fit their own handles unless the blacksmith burned in the tangs. When industrial manufacturing came along the manufacturer decided on what they would use and made/got the tooling they needed for their products. Still the same. Drilling a series of holes is the usual way for us to make the tapered hole unless you can find a tapered reamer that happens to work. If turning the handles yourself and have a steady rest you can taper the hole on the lathe.

Pete

 

[Richard_C]

Step back a little. What forces are acting on a chisel or gouge in use? Twisting, vertical, lateral, whatever but no forces are trying to pull the thing out of the handle. Don't make it overcomplicated.

I recently rehandled a spindle roughing gouge. Tang was c 4.5mm thick, tapered a bit from 12mm at the shoulder to a bit more than 8 at the thin end. Drilled spindle blank on the lathe, 8mm to full depth, 10mm for 2/3 depth and 12mm for a little bit. Finish shaping the handle, Ferrule on, Wood block on blade and tap it in, fine.

Probably all it needed but as there is inevitably a void above and below the tang (rectangle in round hole) and my epoxy has gone off I tamped a mix of wood glue and some of the shavings off the lathe down each empty bit. That won't stick to the metal but, back to the start of this post, nothing is trying to pull it out, you just need to avoid "wobble".