I would rip off the uncle ned and check out the timber / or whatever the construction is beneath. This could be in a sorry state if there has been any water ingress. If you have never had a brush with wet or dry rot you should rejoice in the fact that you don't know what you've missed, it's bluddy awful stuff that never really goes away with simple fixes, its always got to be done thoroughly, with maximum care and with the right products used properly, which costs. The trouble is, some guys find it, go over it and don't mention it because they don't want the additional price implications to their work timetable and the customers budget. They keep it in the dark and then some poor zod gets to harvest the stress years later, that's why i think you should always check out the structure beneath these types of problem areas where water ingress can be involved, the potential for stress (bodged by others) is out of all proportion to what seems obvious.
Once you give the structure a good clean bill of health, you can progress to protect it.
Cuprinol 5 star original every time in my book, not the water based rubbish they sell these days..
First off, there is no difference between EPDM and pond liner as far as I could discern. One keeps water in, under extreme exterior conditions and the other keeps water out in the exact same extreme conditions. It just depends whether you are under water or on top of it as I see it. The cost differential is daft in my opinion, I roofed a massive shed/chalet workshop in pond liner about ten years ago for about a quarter of the cost of EPDM and it still looks and functions as good as new. Mind you there is no foot traffic on it so..?
To prepare a flat surface (even if it is not level) for such a membrane style finish, I would look to my tiling industries cement based flexible tanking systems. They are quick setting specifically designed to adhere to just about every construction material that can flex, in both interior or exterior applications. You can also use them in a thickbed method if necessary to take out voids etc and therefore you are using just one product to get over multiple filling and leveling problems. They are also mega waterproof, smooth surfaced when cured and stable/ flexible and not prone to cracking. How you fix down the membrane is up to you but at least the most difficult structural and cosmetic work will have been done to your desired high standard and you should be able to make the job of fitting the membrane easy and as simple as wallpapering a flat surface.
Hope that helps
I've just drunk two (or was it three) cans of Heineken typing that little rant, I must stop posting when getting half pizzed....
ccasion5:
