Engines

[Digit]

The day is finally approaching! The day, when after 9 mths of sweat and swearing I have reached the stage of starting the engine on my Honda VT250!
The engine is a 90 degree Vee twin inclined forward so that the front cylinder is lower than the rear..

http://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/Galler ... F%2083.jpg

.. now I've strted a few that have 'sat' in my time but I'd appreciate hearing from others.
Normally I would put oil through the plug holes and turn the engine over by hand to lube the bores, but with the bores tilted am I wasting my time?

Roy.

 

[M4RKE]

Digit can you prime the oil pump prior to starting ? or you could allways sping the engine over with a good battery and with the plugs out to ensure you have oil circulating the whole engine. Then fit the plugs and try to fire her up.

 

[Digit]

Unfortunately not! Neither can I turn the pump over 'cos I'd have to drain the oil to get at it.
If necessary I'll simply have to put a lot of oil down the bores to ensure that the pistons are covered, but when I get near to TDC.....

Roy.

 

[MickCheese]

Digit

Make sure the oil filter is primed, I think this is really important as the engine is starved of oil until it fills the filter.

I would still try putting a little oil in the bores and turn over by hand, but it will make starting a bit harder at first. Not sure if this has any effect but it cannot do any harm.

Best of luck. We need a picture.

Mick

 

[Racers]

Hi,

Bit of oil turn over without the plugs, then fire her up!
Have you got fresh petrol in?

Pete

 

[M4RKE]

Digit by putting oil down the bores you are only lubricating the pistons there is all of the camshaft and top end that is also very important to have lubricated as well as the the bottom end main and big end bearings just find outs much as possible info regarding that type of engine before jumping in to quick as it may well be time well spent.

 

[Digit]

The oil filter sits in the sump so should be well primed by now.
Picture, I've finally got my camera back from the lad but he's lost the USB lead!
Top end I can only lube, and have done so, with the cam covers off.
Petrol, at this stage, the bike was pretty much a wreck when I bought it, I don't even know if the ignition circuit works, and as the engine is a real shoe horn job I intend simply filling the carbs.
I've lubed everything I can bar the bores, the top end is lubed both by the cam chains lifting oil and positive feed to the cam bearings, when the pump gets it there!

Roy.

 

[Woodchips2]

The day is finally approaching! The day, when after 9 mths of sweat and swearing I have reached the stage of starting the engine on my Honda VT250!
The engine is a 90 degree Vee twin inclined forward so that the front cylinder is lower than the rear..

http://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/Galler ... F%2083.jpg

.. now I've strted a few that have 'sat' in my time but I'd appreciate hearing from others.
Normally I would put oil through the plug holes and turn the engine over by hand to lube the bores, but with the bores tilted am I wasting my time?

Roy.

Hi Roy
Could you ask Honda how they do it for new bikes at the factory?
Regards Keith

 

[Digit]

I could, but somehow I doubt that I'd get an answer, the bike was built in 1983!

Roy.

 

[chunkolini]

Dare I ask why you are restoring one of these?
They were rare in their day.
I grew up biking in the early 80's, damn rare; I had a CB250RS; future classic. VT250? did see them occasionally.
There is usually a reason for this.
Chunko'.

 

[Digit]

Dare I ask why you are restoring one of these?

Damned if I know! Certainly if I had had a better idea of what I was in for I might have had second thoughts about it.
To be honest part of the reason was I simply liked the idea of a Vee twin, I wanted a light weight for our lanes and the VT seemed to fit the bill.
The rarity, the desire to be different, may have helped but of course, but that very rarity has caused me many problems, more than I had bargain for that's for certain.
I have actually made over 60 parts including caliper pistons in SS, operating parts for the clutch master cylinder, new bushes for the rear suspension, wheel spacers, loads of 'O' rings, the list seemed endless at times.
The bike actually looked pretty good when I collected it, it was later that I discovered that a ham fisted owner had worked his magic on it!
The front wheel spindle thread in the fork leg was not only stripped but had been heli coiled and stripped for a second time so I had to bush that, one fork drain screw thread was stripped, several in the engine of course, two exhaust studs missing with a stripped thread in the head, both carbs were damaged, and so it went on.
Sourcing spares was a lot of fun as well!

Roy.

 

[SammyQ]

Swop it for a Sinclair C5...... :-"

 

[Digit]

Blast, I'm at a loss for words! :lol:

Roy.

 

[OLD]

If the engine is free spin it over with the plugs out so no load for 10-15 secs then start it keep revs low when warmed set carb idle up This assumes new oil and petrol has been used and canister oil filter if fitted has been primed.

 

[Digit]

This assumes new oil and petrol has been used and canister oil filter if fitted has been primed.

I intend turning it over minus the plugs for two reasons, a chance to get some oil to the top end and to check that the plugs fire.
The chap I bought off of had never touched it, having suffered a back injury and only knew what he had been told.
Based on the (over) liberal quantities of silicon sealent the engine had been stripped, apparently to fit two new cam chains.
I do not think that the engine has been started since, at some point in the past the bike has been owned by the worst mechanic I have ever come across.
The bike is renowned, according to the Honda OC, as being 'difficult' to work on.
Valve clearance checks run thus....
Remove seat.
Disconnect fuel pipes and removed tank. (fuel pipes US when I bought the bike.)
Diconnect and remove ignition coils. (harness damaged WIBTB.)
Remove heat shield. (missing WIBTB.)
Drain cooling system. (only one hose was ok WIBTB.)
Disconnect cooling fan and radiator temp sensor. (damaged......)
Remove radiator. (damaged .....)
Remove air box. ( you guessed it....)
With the lids off you are faced with the most amazing collection of oil feed pipes I have ever seen!
To replace the exhaust system requires all of that plus removal of the engine!
Not your average 'ride to work machine.'
I am now also expert at making 'O' tings as not one was salvagable.

Roy.

 

[M4RKE]

If its had new cam chains fitted and not started since the first thing I would be doing is checking that the job has been done right and checking the valve timmimg is correct. As if wrong will never start and could cause loads of damage to the top end.

 

[Digit]

I did! :lol:
There have been that many examples of bad maintenance that a quick once over and back on the road turned into a rebuild, if it could be butchered, he butchered it.
And if I ever get the swine back on the road I'll be stripping the top end again just to check everything.
A fortnight ago I ordered a split link for the drive chain, a 520, now to those uninitiated into the biking world (sad) the 520 is the pitch and width of the rollers measured in 1/8 of an inch.
ie, 5/8 pitch, 2/8 (1/4 inch) width.
It arrived today. 5 centimtres by 2 centimetres!

Roy.

 

[chunkolini]

The joys of buying bikes owned by the inexperienced.

 

[Digit]

Of one thing I am certain, he owned a set of Mole Grips!
He even managed to assemble the filter cover with spring on the outside of the housing. The annoying thing is that all of this was far from obvious with a fairing, side covers and tank in place.

Roy.

 

[andycktm]

Roy, in the latest issue of practical sportsbikes is the family tree for the vt250 all 11 versions.
Including the sporty looking vtr