"Engineered vs Solid" wooden flooring - plus which

[Gary S]

Afternoon all,

I am looking at laying wooden flooring through my hall, kitchen and dining room (about 35m2 in total).

What's the general consensus on "Engineered" vs "Solid".

I like the idea of solid wood flooring but am concerned about the long term stability as well as the process for installing (glued to the concrete floor). The other thing I like about using solid is that I can machine it down to use it as skirting board.

Engineered floors seems simpler to lay and are generally "floating" so this cuts back on the hassle and cost associated with gluing the foor. However, I'll always know it's only about 4mm of wood rather than solid wood flooring!!

The other thing is adhesive - is it imperative to use the wooden flooring adhesive for solid wood floors - the ones I've seen are very expensive. Bit of a daft question maybe but presumably "no more nails" or equivalent just won't cut the mustard?

Any thoughts / advice / insight gratefully received!!

Thanks

Gary

 

[frugal]

What about solid wood T&G flooring. That way you have a solid wood floor that is floating?

 

[Gwilym]

Gary, I have used "engineered" wood floor in my current and previous houses for cost and simplicity reasons. In total I've done a lounge and 3 bedrooms in it and it's been fine. The only thing I would say is that you need to be careful about making sure the joints are scrupulously clean before you snap them together, else they don't go together properly. If you do it right ypu can see the joins between boards if you look in bright light, but otherwise not. With either you'll have to be prepared for a few scratches in a hallway, I would think (proper wood is much softer than nasty plastic laminate) and you'll probably find that neither (certainly not the engineered stuff I have used) is recommended for a kitchen because of the general steaminess and chance of getting it soaking wet. Maybe you'd be OK if you sealed it really really well once it's down... not sure.
I'm thinking to go with solid bamboo T&G when I do my downstairs, though - tougher than wood and water resistant so my through kitchen-diner-lounge-hall can all be in one material - but still feels warm and is not plasticky in appearance. Try http://www.simplybamboodirect.co.uk/ - they do T&G and now have a click-together system advertised on their website.

Given that you can buy hardwood skirting (or indeed bamboo), I wouldn't be too swayed by being able to use flooring as skirting.

Hae fun![/url]

 

[Waka]

Gary

I put 18mm T&G oak down in my conservatiry about 5 years ago, it was done as a floating floor, none of the joints were glued/nailed etc. I've had no problem with is at all, its now coming up for a light rub down and re-treating when i can get round to it.

FWIW I'd use hardwood through and through, I'm planning on doing my hall, study, dining room and living room later this year.

 

[Gary S]

What about solid wood T&G flooring. That way you have a solid wood floor that is floating?

My understanding is that even T&G solid wood floors still need to be glued or nailed down to minimise movement through expansion / contraction?

 

[frugal]

What about solid wood T&G flooring. That way you have a solid wood floor that is floating?

My understanding is that even T&G solid wood floors still need to be glued or nailed down to minimise movement through expansion / contraction?

This is why I make small boxes not lay floors

 

[gidon]

Gary
I've put down a lot of engineered wood flooring in my house (Kahrs Linea). It's as easy as laminate to lay and it's stable. This thinner stuff is handy depending on what you're taking off. But the stuff I went for is only 1mm of real wood! So no chance of sanding out scratches etc. Depends how long you'll be staying your house. Even the more common engineered wood with 4mm wear layer can be probably only sanded once. I didn't think we'd be in the house long enough to care. Not so sure now so probaby would go for the 4mm wear layer or more if I were you.
Another factor of course is cost! Even without labour costs engineered is cheaper.
Cheers
Gidon

 

[bob_c]

About six months ago i put around 20 sq metres of reclaimed parquet(bought off ebay which was supposed to be teak but turned out to be mahogany when i received it)) down in the conservatory.Never doing that again with reclaimed.
I laid plywood down and glued it all using that polyurethane flooring adhesive.It was expensive glue but seemed to go along way,with stuff left over.It forms and lifts the flooring after an hour or two.I had to go around the parquet standing on the blocks to squash it down.Its just like pu woodworking adhesive only thicker.The floors been fine since sanded and varnished.The problem with the parquet was it had around 1/8" of bitumin on the back.Removing it was probably the most unpleasant thing ive ever done.I end up bandsawing the bitumin off .

 

[Matt_S]

I installed solid bamboo onto concrete about a year ago. I used DPM then a adhesive foam underlay(screwfix) which the bamboo stuck to it to form a floating floor. It has worked relatively well, does have some creaking from movement but has a great feel under the feet. The door way to the kitchen has been problematic as the moisture has made it bow whereas the other two doors have had no such problems. Going to bolt it with expansion room to the concrete underneath the edging strip to solve this though.

Overall I think I'd recommend the bamboo and adhesive underlay. The lacquer is very susceptable to scratches though for anyone considering using bamboo

 

[chippy1970]

Engineered everytime I have layed most types of wood floor but recommend Kahrs Linnea but do make sure your sub floor is as flat as possible.

Waka,

How does your floor stay together if you didnt glue or nail it and its not a click together one ?

 

[Gary S]

The other thing I forgot to mention is that I much prefer a "brushed and oiled" look, rather than anything glossy or even satin finish.

The solid wood I really like is this one...

http://www.completelyflooring.co.uk/pro ... ts_id/1905

I find most engineered floorings are lacquered and have the shiny finish - when i've seen these installed I find they seem to show nicks and dents much more plus when you look across a room you often just see a white shine on the surface rather than the actual wood. In my opinion this make these floors look more like laminates, even though they may be a 4mm veneer of real wood.

So, engineered "brushed and oiled" with a dark-ish oak finish does limit my choices somewhat!!

 

[billybuntus]

I've laid that flooring in our bedroom (well the same finish and ours is solid oak) and it looks well. I agree with avoiding the shiney flooring as it marks just by looking at it.

I'll be laying pitch pine (t&g) which is down to 4% moisture in our living room soon.

I'm going to lay a plastic sheet DPC Probably 6mm then 3/4 marine ply on top which will be screwed to the floor then secret nail the t&g to the ply.

 

[Gary M]

Solid is the only way to get a natural looking wooden floor.
The glue for the concrete is expensive because its not an ordinary glue. It has elastic properties to cope with the wood moving. No More Nails is a real No No.
Its really straight foward to put the floor down using the proper adhesive sticking it to the concrete. As mentioned your sub floor must be pretty level. If its not you will need to use a self leveling product first.
You can clamp it up as you go to keep the joints tight. Screwfix sell the clamps for about £5 each.
One of the most important things is to let the floor aclimatise first. Leave the boxes in or near the room/rooms it is to be laid in for at least 2 weeks.
The longer the better.

You cannot float a solid floor so dont even try it as it will move everywhere. It needs to be fixed (glued /nailed)
Bamboo is not as it seems. It is a plank made up of 3/4"laminated strips of bamboo (how many 6" thick bamboo canes have you seen and its hollow too) it is much much more stable than solid wood. It can be floated without much trouble.
HTH,
Gary.

 

[Dave S]

I've got 35m^2 of this arriving on Tuesday for my lounge and dining room. It's laid as a floating floor. Available lacquered or oiled.

I plan to lay it week after next so can report back then, if it's not too late.

Dave

 

[chippy1970]

Solid is the only way to get a natural looking wooden floor.
The glue for the concrete is expensive because its not an ordinary glue. It has elastic properties to cope with the wood moving. No More Nails is a real No No.
Its really straight foward to put the floor down using the proper adhesive sticking it to the concrete. As mentioned your sub floor must be pretty level. If its not you will need to use a self leveling product first.
You can clamp it up as you go to keep the joints tight. Screwfix sell the clamps for about £5 each.
One of the most important things is to let the floor aclimatise first. Leave the boxes in or near the room/rooms it is to be laid in for at least 2 weeks.
The longer the better.

You cannot float a solid floor so dont even try it as it will move everywhere. It needs to be fixed (glued /nailed)
Bamboo is not as it seems. It is a plank made up of 3/4"laminated strips of bamboo (how many 6" thick bamboo canes have you seen and its hollow too) it is much much more stable than solid wood. It can be floated without much trouble.
HTH,
Gary.

Gary I dont know if you are a professional fitter but you have said two things wrong.

1 Solid wood is the only way to get a natural looking floor = RUBBISH there are quiet a few engineered floors that have a natural look and they do come in an oiled finish too.

2 You cannot float a solid floor = MORE RUBBISH I think you better ask Junckers as they have sold a solid wood floating floor that has metal clips that hold the planks together, for years.

http://www.junckers.co.uk/index.asp?pageid=H465

 

[EdK]

Anyone got any experience of flooring inhouses by the sea ? I live right by the sea (30m) and was wondering on movement in marine climates (Guernsey).
Cheers
Ed

 

[Waka]

Engineered everytime I have layed most types of wood floor but recommend Kahrs Linnea but do make sure your sub floor is as flat as possible.

Waka,

How does your floor stay together if you didnt glue or nail it and its not a click together one ?

Where I have left an expansion gap around the edges I have placed cork, this keeps the floor in place, any expansion/contraction is taken up by the elastic properties of the cork.

 

[chippy1970]

Sorry Waka but that seems strange I have never heard of anyone laying a T&G floor and not either:

1 using click together system

2 glueing all joints

3 glueing the floor down to the sub-floor

4 nailing the floor down with a Porta-nailer

Just seems strange to have all those loose boards sitting there.

 

[Waka]

Sorry Waka but that seems strange I have never heard of anyone laying a T&G floor and not either:

1 using click together system

2 glueing all joints

3 glueing the floor down to the sub-floor

4 nailing the floor down with a Porta-nailer

Just seems strange to have all those loose boards sitting there.

Strange as it may seem the floor has been down for 6 years and I've experienced no problems at all. When I put the floor down the T&G was a nice tight fit, and I don't appear to have as you say "loose boards sitting there", maybe I've just been lucky with the material.

 

[chippy1970]

As far as I can see it Waka the boards are loose as I said.

They are not nailed or glued so the only thing holding them together is friction is that right or have I missed something.

If it works for you then fair enough but I have never seen boards just put together with no form of fixing.