Elm Sideboard

[Paul Chapman]

Carry on posting the pictures, Bloonose - they're very interesting. I'm particularly interested in your use of the Domino. I had a go of it when I visted Dom and was very impressed - wish I could afford one.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Imperial]

Did the veneer prep, see pics. The one without the tape is after cutting for the bookmatch. I had to get a pair of rectangles 180mm x 400mm, one for the back and one for the front for 3 doors, quite time consuming. Then tape them together with the face side having the tape. Will try to glue them tomorrow using a 2 part urethane glue in a hot press which will set in about 15 minutes. The veneer is still quite flexible and is not cracking when a bubble is pushed, but it still has some cracks which I have also taped. Cross your fingers for me that there are no mishaps as I don't have any more of the veneer.......

 

[devonwoody]

Best of luck or is it skill!

 

[Imperial]

The panels have turned out quite well, though the photo is poor due to sanding the panels after removing all the tape. It hides the detail. Will be cutting the rebate to make them fit into the door spaces, maybe on a spindle moulder or a router in a table. Then making the frame for the drawers to run on and a rail to support the bottom shelf as its rather wide and could sag. 3 Drawers next and that will mean cutting and fitting approx 60 dovetails by hand. Using a similar design to the top with different sized tails.

 

[Philly]

Great veneer! Love it!
Philly

 

[woodyone]

Wow there is so much to say, but first i must compliment you on your dovetail joint, very neat. I'm looking forward to seeing the end product.

 

[Paul Chapman]

Those veneers look lovely.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Mcluma]

The veneer job looks good

 

[Imperial]

Did the rebate on the panels on the Spindle Moulder as it had a Knife and Cutter on the block so less chance of tearing. Made a few mistakes, like forgetting to take into account the thickness of the veneer when making the grooves in the frames and another small but costly error. Didn't cause damage just time to resolve with Shoulder and block planes. The pics are of the panel close up and the front and rear of a door. the burr shows up a little better. The gap all round the edge is not 3mm exactly due to the above but it will be better when I do the glue up. Thanks for all the comments!

 

[woodbloke]

Keep the pics coming, excellent work so far, really looking forward to seeing the whole thing as it comes together. I hope you like working with the elm as much as I do...it's a fantastic native timber...apart from seasoning it :x - Rob

 

[Imperial]

1st and last methinks, its been a nightmare. Virtually every part has twisted or cupped or both. It's taken at least twice as long to make this as it should just due correcting problems with the timber, but it will be all about the timber rather than the design, a little rustic,when its finished, or should I say if!

 

[Imperial]

Been finishing a table which I showed pics of french polishing the top, and applied sanding sealer to the Burr panels. The table is made from Walnut, Ebony and Satinwood. Also prep'd up the drawer sides, which had cupped, back to flat and will cut them to length and width once they have settled over night. The drawer fronts are from one plank which I can now cut to size as I know the final door dimensions and width of the cabinet.

 

[woodyone]

I really do like the table you have just finished and french polishing it is just like the cherry on top :lol:

Woody.

 

[DavidE]

That table is really nice I like the burr, and the overall craft in it that is on show.

Cheers
David

 

[Imperial]

Glued up the doors, prep'd the 3 drawer fronts from one plank and marked out for the through dovetails on the drawers which sort of match the top. The gap between tails is 5mm, not the usual small amount used when hand cutting them, but I think it will look better on the design which has a 15mm overhang at the bottom of each drawer front to hide the push to open mechanism.

 

[Imperial]

Made the drawer support panel and made mortises in the end panels to take a rail which will help with any sagging of the bottom shelf. The DSP has biscuits to connect at the front edge and a floating tenon at the other as there could be expansion of the side panel. This should stop any problems and the rail will be attached to the side panel with a domino biscuit. The small stiles will be attched to the side panel with screws though an enlarged pocket screw hole.

 

[Imperial]

Did the cutouts on the end panels, cut holes with a "tank cutter" in a drill press then bandsaw'd the waste away. Used a straight edge in combo with a flush bit to trim to the pencil line. Seemed to work ok, but will need to scrape and sand to be happy. Cut the tenons in the shelf support by hand and shoulder planned to perfect fit. Started cutting the drawer sides, in pairs, just doing the fronts at the moment, the LN dovetail saw seemed to leave quite a ragged edge on this Elm, maybe as its quartersawn? Haven't had that happen with the Jap saw. The partition between the cupboard openings, also to hang a door from, looks too nice to be hidden, but needs must. Hope to glue up the carcass tomorrow after making the wedges for the through tenons on the sides.

 

[Philly]

Loving this, Bloo!
Keep up the good work,
Philly

 

[Imperial]

Not much to update, its amazing how long somethings take to do, even though they seem simple tasks, by the time you find all the equipment or tools you need an hour can have gone!!! I've also added 1.5mm to the length of the bottom shelf, only discovered on dry fit up which will now need to be removed at the shoulder positions, to keep everything square, which will also add more time!!! These things seem to happen when making bespoke as opposed to following a planned drawing, but did get me down a little. Made the wedges in Rosewood which are being fitted diagonally rather than straight hence the mitred ends, done by holding a block plane upside down in the vice and pulling the wedge across the sole, the tenons also have a little kerf cut on them to ease the spread and stop cracks. They are now a little thinner than the picture shows as the gap was not a big as 1st thought (dry fit). I filled the cracked knot in the top panel with some 2 pack epoxy mixed with dyes after first sealing the area with some shellac sanding sealer,it gave a good idead of what the colour of the piece will be after its finished, quite golden.

 

[Imperial]

Did the glue up of the carcass, used a very slow curing glue as it was quite difficult to get everything in place and square + no winding. Put the doors on a few blocks to give me an idea of how it will look, the bottom shelf was a close runner to being the top. Off to Isaac lord for the drawer runners and Tip On mech's tomorrow, hope their in stock! The dark patches are just from soapy water cleaning off the gluey finger marks etc!