Elm Platter

[johnny.t.]

This is a beast of a platter at 14" wide. Thats the maximum over the bed width for my toytown axminster, it was really difficult as out at the edges the machine develops a hell of a lot of vibration, requiring many, many extremely light cuts but I got there in the end .
This is the first bit of Elm I've ever turned,I aquired it from a fellow forum member(hope you think I've done it justice) and I must say its gorgeous looking stuff 8).
Anyway I'm hooked on this chunky look at the minute and this is no exception, its a inch thick, with a substantial weight.

It has holes too, just for Wizer :lol:

JT

 

[Bodrighy]

Lovely looking thing that. It's a bit darker than the elm I have done, is that the natural colour? I suppose the next step now is that you are going to want a bigger lathe? :lol:

Like you I prefer the chunky look and also holes so this is definitely my type of thing.

Pete

 

[johnny.t.]

I suppose the next step now is that you are going to want a bigger lathe? :lol:

I'm starting to think need more than want :lol:

 

[stevebuk]

great looking platter JT, is that a woodwax 22 finish, really like that deep shine this platter has.

 

[cornucopia]

the curvature of the inside and outside is superb- the rim detail and figure is great.... but the chucking spigot lets it down JT, i know this piece is decorative rather than utilitrarian but the foot looks out of proportion to the piece and because of the quality of the piece and the newly found outlet imo you should be removing the chucking marks as on this piece they stand out like a sore thumb!! (please ignore this comment if you like some turners i know remove them a few weeks after you've made them)

 

[petercharlesfagg]

the curvature of the inside and outside is superb- the rim detail and figure is great.... but the chucking spigot lets it down JT, i know this piece is decorative rather than utilitrarian but the foot looks out of proportion to the piece and because of the quality of the piece and the newly found outlet imo you should be removing the chucking marks as on this piece they stand out like a sore thumb!! (please ignore this comment if you like some turners i know remove them a few weeks after you've made them)

This is an excellent platter and deserves an esteemed position in anyones home!

I disagree with removing the chucking recess, I have left them on all of my pieces over the past 16 years and yours does not appear to detract from the whole.

The finish is beautiful.

As for going for a bigger lathe it will only improve your output!

The largest platter I have ever produced is 24" in diameter on a Record CL3 so anything is possible! (It was 28 inches but I caught the edge with gouge and bits flew off! Scary but satisfying!)

Regards, Peter.

 

[big soft moose]

I agree with peter jonny - i dont think the chucking recess spoils the look too much , and it would be a pain to remove as i doubt you can hold something that size in a set of button jaws.

with regard to your lathe - if you get a free standing tool rest (axminster sell them for a couple of hundred notes but any competent welder can knock one up fror much less - come to that you could whomp one up out of 2x4s if you had to ) then assuming its a rotating head lathe ypou can go much bigger than the suposed maximum.

i used to have an M900 which is broadly the same as yours , and i did several platters that were 24" dia like that - i once did one that was 36" but that was hairy as hell and not to be recomended IMO

 

[johnny.t.]

Cheers guys

Steve, yes woodwax22 over CSS.

George, the problem with platters is how to remove the foot? If the timber I'm using is thick enough for a tenon, then no worries , I just reverse the piece against a ply disc and hold in place with the tailstock, do the foot and remove the tiny bit in the middle with a chisel after its off. But when I have to do a recess on a thinner piece I really don't know how to go about removing it, as I don't have the thickness of timber to hold it with the tailstock(that is I would make a hole in a bit I want to keep) My solution is to make the holding piece into the foot, not ideal as you point out.I'm open to suggestions I have used gaffer tape on small and irregular pieces but thats not practical on things of this size.

JT

 

[cornucopia]

the easiest way is to create a dome in scrap wood and cover it with router matt, then pin the piece between centres using a pointlesss tail centre (marlin do them) then turn the inside of the dovetail away thus creating a foot with a sloping recessed centre. a jam chuck on a bigger capicty lathe or a vac chuck would be easier but you can still do it on your lathe if you want to.
if you want to acheive the best results you must make sure the whole piece is perfect- i have seen far too many pieces that could/should have been brillant only to be let down by chucking method or lack of attention to detail.

 

[DaveL]

Now that is very nice, I love elm, I would guess your stock came from the same source. 8)

 

[Chrisp]

Well done Johnny, that is a great piece, lovely figure and colour, I think the chunky look suits it aswell, you just want to pick it up! as for the foot you could carve or sand it away by hand/machine to really finish it off.
Keep up the good work.
Chris.

 

[johnny.t.]

Thanks Peter and BSM very much appreciated 8)

BSM on the edge of this piece 14" I'm getting machine vibration,I don't think avwsl1000s are as good a quality as m900s, so sadly swivelled head turning seems to be a no no

.....pointlesss tail centre (marlin do them)

I did not know such marvels existed :shock:

....if you want to acheive the best results you must make sure the whole piece is perfect......l.

Oh, I like perfect, I hate any blemish atall on my stuff, if there is one its all I can see :evil usually when I look a couple of days later I can't find it anymore )

JT

 

[johnny.t.]

Cheers Dave, Chris

 

[stevebuk]

then pin the piece between centres using a pointlesss tail centre (marlin do them)

you just got to give us an address for this company george, i'm fed up of looking at "big gus's marlin fishing tours" and the like. :lol:

 

[Bodrighy]

Be careful trying to turn things much bigger than this over the side. That's how I killed my Perform which was only marginally lower down the scale than yours. It isn't just the size it's the overall vibration problems etc. The way the head is attached to the bed isn't really strong enough to cope with heavier things that are over the side. The size isn't the problem IMHO it's the weight and the weight distribution that is critical. Peter's Record is a much sturdier beast than the Chaiwanese versions today

Pete

 

[richburrow]

The platter looks fantastic!!!!
I think what you have done with the rim looks very nice indeed
You have really brought out the beauty of the wood here =D>
Rich

 

[johnny.t.]

Thanks Rich 8) Can't really go wrong with timber this nice,the colour is tremendous, it really is a pity these lovely trees have all but disappeared They do however appear to thrive still when cut as hedges(but not big enough for our purposes)

I had 1/4" between the edge and the bed :shock: made me think where I was putting me hand when sanding :lol: much less than a fingers worth of room.

JT

 

[cornucopia]

here you go the marlin system I couldn't remeber what they were called last night!! but i meant the ring center with the central point removed or retracted- or the cone or faceplate and make up a scrap of wood to reduce the size.

don't misunderstand me-my work isn't perfect-and i regulary throw my work away because of faults like a disproportionate foot or sanding marks.

 

[Paul.J]

Lovely looking piece of Elm JT,and a nice looking platter to match
I would like to have seen a side shot of it to see how it is stting/profile on the foot.

 

[johnny.t.]

I would like to have seen a side shot of it to see how it is stting/profile on the foot.

Here you go .You could never view it like this really, the pic has been taken from slightly lower than level(making the bottom of the platter look deeper than reality)