Ebonizing!

[gasmansteve]

Hi Folks
After reading posts about ebonizing I`m trying some steel wool soaked in vinegar but not sure what to do next. I am trying some distilled vinegar and some malt vinegar both have a lump of steel wool soaking in their containers. How long do I leave the containers and presumably I strain it off before use, is the wood brushed with it or left to soak in it?. My plan is to ebonize if possible some thin strips of Oak or Mahogany about 1/16" to make a veneer for some segmented turning. I am assuming with a thickness of 1/16" it would penetrate the veneer thoroughly so that it can be turned afterwards and still retain its colour??. Anyone had success with this method and how did you do it please?.
Cheers
Steve

 

[Richard Findley]

Hi Steve,

As I understand it, the longer you leave the steel wool in the vinegar the more potent your mix will be. Usually you just bruch it on an leave it. Sometimes on Oak it goes on a bit blue but soon turns black. The only problem is the smell :? !

Will definately work on the Oak but I'm not sure about the Mahogany. It works (as I'm sure you know) by reacting with the Tannin in the wood and I'm not sure if Mahogany (if it is Mahogany you have) has enough/any Tannin in it to react but give it a go a report back please!!

Good luck,

Richard

 

[gasmansteve]

Hi Richard
Thanks for the info. Surfing around the web I got some info about coating the timber with extra Tannin beforehand and after a root around I found some available albeit in powder form from a local homebrew shop. A site I found suggests using Tannic acid so not quite sure how my attempt will work out?. I assume the Tannin powder is just added to water to then brush on but not sure of the amounts ?? I`ll just have to suck it and see I think, will let you know how I get on.
Cheers
Steve

 

[MIGNAL]

I think you will have trouble getting it to go all the way through at that thickness. I've done some American Black Walnut using Ferrous sulphate (same effect as Ferrous acetate) and veneer of 0.5 mm takes a few days immersed in the liquid before it penetrates all the way through. At the thickness you suggested it might prove impossible without resorting to using pressure. Possible in a domestic pressure cooker but only for very small lengths and far too dangerous to rig something up yourself for longer pieces.

 

[bob_c]

Hi Richard
Thanks for the info. Surfing around the web I got some info about coating the timber with extra Tannin beforehand and after a root around I found some available albeit in powder form from a local homebrew shop. A site I found suggests using Tannic acid so not quite sure how my attempt will work out?. I assume the Tannin powder is just added to water to then brush on but not sure of the amounts ?? I`ll just have to suck it and see I think, will let you know how I get on.
Cheers
Steve

Tannin powder will work fine, i use it alot. Tannin is quite resinous and if you put to much on it gets sticky like its coated in shellac.

 

[gasmansteve]

Hi Bob
Ta for that, do you just add the Tannin powder to water and if so what sort of ratio Tannin /water do you use?
Cheers
Steve

 

[bob_c]

I just put a load in hot water,maybe a heaped tablespoon in a small glass jar.It wil be cloudy but clear quickly.Apply the tannin and let soak in and dry.Then give a very light sanding with fine paper,this is just to remove the resinous coating you can get and this helps the iron solution soak in better(also keps the raised grain down a bit ).Then apply whatever iron solution your using)As someone else mentioned it will look blue-ish but should turn black.
Also be careful,tanic acid is poisonous in much the same way as oxalic acid from rubarb leaves.
Another tip,is you can use meths in a 80/20 solution with water for dissolving iron sulphate it will help keep the grain down and also penetrate deeper into the wood.You can easily buy iron sulphate for very little from any gardening centre.