Question for diamond stone users: are they OK to use with laminated Japanese chisels? I've heard it said that the softer backing steel can irreversibly clog the stones up if you use them to hone the bevel.
JohnCee":28h1fukh said:Question for diamond stone users: are they OK to use with laminated Japanese chisels? I've heard it said that the softer backing steel can irreversibly clog the stones up if you use them to hone the bevel.
thetyreman":2bfpnsi3 said:JohnCee":2bfpnsi3 said:Question for diamond stone users: are they OK to use with laminated Japanese chisels? I've heard it said that the softer backing steel can irreversibly clog the stones up if you use them to hone the bevel.
I have used japanese laminated blades on my DMT stones and there's not been problems here, it's a load of rubbish from what I've experienced.
thetyreman":6xwfpdf3 said:JohnCee":6xwfpdf3 said:Question for diamond stone users: are they OK to use with laminated Japanese chisels? I've heard it said that the softer backing steel can irreversibly clog the stones up if you use them to hone the bevel.
I have used japanese laminated blades on my DMT stones and there's not been problems here, it's a load of rubbish from what I've experienced.
D_W":1t06adcc said:Rich C":1t06adcc said:Howso?D_W":1t06adcc said:The method that sellers uses is foolish - avoid it.
At the risk of getting into a discussion where people will consider my principles too faffy and precise (they are not), the sellers method is fine for sloppy sharpening, but there are two problems with it:
1) it is not careful enough with edge and bevel geometry and will make things like nailing camber (if you're going to finish off of the plane more difficult). The issue with the geometry isn't at the tip, but the rounded bevel in wedging tools like chisels is problematic, it will have you doing extra work unless you're very careful about leaving it long and thin (the actual rounding at the very edge is fine, and perhaps desirable from the perspective of picking where your edge will fail).
2) it has you doing a whole bunch of work to metal that really has no part in the performance of the tool (namely, you end up polishing a whole bunch of the bevel that doesn't need it)
It's both quicker and far more precise to remove a flat or hollow bevel (I'm more of a traditionalist, but I cannot argue just how good a CBN wheel is - even the wheels that are $50 from china are fabulous - the grinder used does not need to be large or expensive), and use fewer stones, and for the ultimate work, slower stones precisely where you want to use them.
Every person I've ever seen who does fine work with a lot of hand tools is much more precise about their sharpening, and economical with effort. Not more deliberate (not slower), but more precise.
I don't wish to get in a fanboy battle - I am a fanatical sharpener of things sort of as a hobby, it goes well beyond tools. Fanatical not only in sharpness, but quickness of it, too. But, I also work almost entirely by hand, and doing as well as possible with sharpening (within the constraint that it still needs to be quick) helps hand work greatly, because you will be sharpening chisels, planes, strange little irons, little knives, all kinds of things. The methods that actually work the best for actual work generally coincide with making the least effort, but controlling edge and bevel geometry by keeping the bevel out of the way but still giving you an allowance to be less than perfect at the very edge (finer, slower stones for that work- slightly rounding the very last fraction of the edge both for strength and to confirm that you have, in fact, removed all of the wear that was present before sharpening).
Unfortunately he doesn't.FatmanG":2fyjkp9y said:Paul is teaching inexperienced woodworker's the basics but even so he still is able to give out correct advice always.
This is not just a matter of minutia. Sharpening is a cornerstone aspect of the craft he is striving to help people with (largely successfully I might add) and good work can fail or succeed on the strength of it.FatmanG":2fyjkp9y said:...but I feel whether you disagree with the minutiae or not he deserves respect.
FatmanG":ml3b9e4c said:The method that sellers uses is foolish - avoid it.
Sellers specifically tells people that they need to do the full progression, every time. This does have some specific disadvantages; it needlessly wastes steel for one, and it increases the risk of a less-experienced user altering the edge profile unintentionally. But on the other hand it does ensure anyone following his practices to the letter will never fail to remove the wear bevel even if they have the bad habit of leaving their honing interval too long.FatmanG":ml3b9e4c said:I'm staggered to read that comment. :shock:
I accept your not taking potshots I respect you for saying so. I have studied woodworking at length unable to get out of bed for years and Paul's methods are the very best out there IMO I would be happy to view any you may think that are superior please post me a link. If its a case of I say so believe me guv then that's just a case of hot air for me my body may of got battered but my eyesight works. I'm now putting into practice what I've studied and its working verbatimED65":33f8fii3 said:Yes it's easy to take pot shots at people in the public eye, please take it on faith that's not what I'm doing here.
But you see this is part of the problem:
Unfortunately he doesn't.FatmanG":33f8fii3 said:Paul is teaching inexperienced woodworker's the basics but even so he still is able to give out correct advice always.
This is not just a matter of minutia. Sharpening is a cornerstone aspect of the craft he is striving to help people with (largely successfully I might add) and good work can fail or succeed on the strength of it.FatmanG":33f8fii3 said:...but I feel whether you disagree with the minutiae or not he deserves respect.
Sellers's method can certainly work – it obviously works for him and it has undeniably helped a great many people get much better edges, including yours truly – but commenters are free to point out that there are issues with it for the newbie and learner, and that there are superior techniques (better results faster) that one can aspire to.
FatmanG":348pkpz8 said:I think the difference between you and Paul Sellers is by your own admission is you're a fanatical sharpener where he is a fanatical craftsman/woodworker. His work is out there for all to see. Paul is teaching inexperienced woodworker's the basics but even so he still is able to give out correct advice always. As a student gains experience he is able to hone his skill in every aspect he is taught. I'm sick and tired of seeing Paul being dismissed like some you tube Silly person who talks rubbish. Nobody is perfect but I feel whether you disagree with the minutiae or not he deserves respect. Imho
In one of the Q&As he used to post on YouTube he answered a viewer question about day-to-day or routine sharpening and what's necessary and he said to do the full sharpening routine, every time. As I say above this does ensure anyone following his practices to the letter will never fail to remove the wear bevel which is not an uncommon issue in learner sharpening; but like I go on to say if you do some comparisons you will find it's not necessary. Ergo it does needlessly waste steel and time.FatmanG":3vinjgsd said:He shows how to sharpen/restore tools he buys cheap usually off ebay. He shows how to get cheap aldi chisels ready from out of the packet. He is teaching inexperienced users the basics of how to get a tool sharp to use.
Hang on a second, I don't see anyone doing that.FatmanG":3vinjgsd said:Why people try and pull others down to try and make themselves look superior...
Saying a method is foolish or that something is a fool's errand is not calling the person espousing whatever it is a fool.FatmanG":3vinjgsd said:Disagree with some one by all means but calling him a fool isn't on.
That's super, so presumably you've read Sellers's first book. Seek out a copy of Steve Branam's "Hand Tool Basics" (your local library system may have a copy) and be suitably amazed by the contrast, both in terms of quality of content and in the design and layout of the book itself. This is perhaps an unfair comparison as I consider Branam's book possibly the best on the subject. Shout out to Chris Tribe's book which is also excellent, and also a superior learning tool IMO.FatmanG":2dk2yu4h said:I have studied woodworking at length unable to get out of bed for years and Paul's methods are the very best out there IMO I would be happy to view any you may think that are superior please post me a link.
Fair enough.FatmanG":2dk2yu4h said:I'm now putting into practice what I've studied and its working verbatim
ED65":1dm1li7f said:So "55 years of experience" or no he is not the person to get you fully up to speed on that aspect of using a plane.
D_W":juvhy0mx said:FatmanG":juvhy0mx said:Before that, he trained as a joiner. Not as a cabinetmaker or instrument maker.
I beg to differ Trevanion,Trevanion":2eo3n7z6 said:As for Sellers, I don't think you can get much better for the fundamental basics of the craft, but he can be quickly outgrown and students move onto more complex work and teachings elsewhere. You can't really say anything he shows is wrong persay as it all works to a degree, but it can be vastly improved upon as mentioned above.
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