Dyed veneer finish advice please.

[sihollies]

Hi
I have just acquired a bundle of brightly coloured dyed veneers and plan to create a quirky/psychedelic jewellry box
with a parquetry design.
My problem, is how I should finish it.
I have used the likes of alpi and other coloured veneers before on a couple of occassions, and am aware that sanding the bare surface is a no no, as the dust creates a muddy colour in the grain.
Could anyone please give me some guidance, as to how i could finish the project?
I have made several parquetry projects in the past, using natural veneers, and have used a neutral coloured grain filler over the full surface, and sanded it back to hide any slight inperfections, but in this case it wont be possible, unless anyone knows of a clear grain filler that is available??
Thanks in advance

Simon

 

[MIGNAL]

The clearest Shellac, very heavy cut. Apply with a rag. Let it dry and sink. Cut back. Keep doing this until all the surface is filled. Takes weeks.
Then there's epoxy pore filling, but I don't know much about it. It's obviously a lot quicker. Probably a different type of epoxy to the usual 2 tube glue.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YYHxMg7n9cI

 

[sihollies]

Thanks very much MIGNAL.
I have some 4lb clear shellac which I could use, if I opt for that option, but sounds an extremely time consuming process. ( which I really dont mind if it gets the job done)
I have been digging online, and foud this product & would appresiate your opinion.
http://shop.rothkoandfrost.co.uk/Clear- ... fs5062.htm
I have also found a Birchwood Casey Gun Stock SEALER & FILLER
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Birchwood-Cas ... 53dd1a8c96
and was wondering if anyone had any experience in using this product??

Thanks again
Simon

 

[Ian]

I have used clear grain filler and it is not clear just neutral and not suited for lots of different colours. The epoxy is called z-poxy finishing resin and works but has its problems + it has an amber tint. I produce jewellery boxes with many colours and to retain the true colour the best method is to grain fill with 2k clear Polyuerethan base coat. I spray it but it could be brushed on - it dries hard and never clogs sandpaper. It can then be glossed with it's own gloss and this dries rock hard - level and polish to a high gloss.



Ian

 

[sihollies]

Thanks Ian,
Sounds good, would it be possible to offer more specific details on the application and if possible a UK shop name or link as to where I may buy it?

Thanks

Simon

 

[Ian]

Hi Simon

COLOURLESS TRANSPARENT POLYURETHANE BASE COAT FP262

COLOURLESS POLYURETHANE GLOSS LP152P

As I said I spray my finish and it goes 2-3 coats leaving 1hr between coats, the next day this gets cut back with 320 grit. There will still be low spots which will be shinny, then clean the surface with wax remover and add 2-3 more coats, repeat until when sanded the surface is matte and no low spots. Then add 3 coats of gloss. I did say it could be brushed on but this may not be the case best to ask for advice at the supplier. After the last coats of base they should sit for a week to fully harden, and the same with the gloss coats. http://www.woodfinishesonline.co.uk/coa ... yurethane/

Ask for Peter

Cheers
Ian

 

[My63]

Hi Simon
I have just ordered some coloured veneer and was wondering if you can't sand it how do you prepare it for finishing?
Re Ian's suggestion for finish it looks like a commercial product is there something suitable for non commercial use?
Thanks
Michael

 

[sihollies]

Hi Michael,
I must confess that I am not overly experience in finishing, but in the past I have wiped or brushed on a few layers of sanding sealer, so the grain lifts, then give the surface a light rub down with fine grit paper.
I repeat this process several time before I wax it with a beeswax or Black Bison wax.
I have found that if you sand the bare dyed veneer, it tends to create a 'muddy' colour within the grain, especially if there are two different colours of veneer next to each other.
Again, I must stste that I am not overly ecperienced in finishig, and if anyone on the forum would like to 'put me right', then please do.

Regards

Simon

 

[sihollies]

Hi
I have been in contact wodfinishesonline.co.uk, who were extremely helpful and comprehensive, but unfortunately the cost of the finishes, stated in Ian's post arent feasible for the project that I am working on.
Has anyone on the forum any experience with plastic coating for timber, as after a lot of reading online, I think it can offer the finish I am after.
My question is: Can it be applied in a similar way to the above post from ian? Where I can apply several coats, sanding back between coats to create a flat, sealed, level surface.?

Thanks in advance

Simon

 

[Ian]

Yes plastic coating will work also - brushed on or sprayed.

I have tried this in the past and varying pretty good results - certainly worth a try.

Best
Ian

 

[sihollies]

Thanks again Ian
I think I will give it a try.
I have never used it before, and upon trolling the internet I found only vague or contrdictory views on the application process and hope someone can advise.
I am aware that, with it being a 2 part mix, the cure is achieved by a chemical reaction, and have read that recoating of the finish should be reapplied after one hour, as a longer duration between coats can 'melt' the previous coat and create a wrinkling effect.?
So.in a nutshell, can I sand down between coats to create a smooth thick finish on the box, and if so how long should I wait for the finish to 'go off' after I sand back and apply the next coat?
If anyone could inform me of a method of using this product, it would be appreiated.
I intend to contact Rustins regarding this query, but would like the 'hands on' experience of the people here.

Again, I thank you for your time and knowledge

Regards

Simon

 

[sihollies]

Just a quick update & hope this will help queries in the future.
I have contacted Rustins regarding the recoat time/drying time, and how to achieve a mirror finish.
PLease find the reply below

'Hi

The recoat time is 2hrs. The recoat time for product should not exceed 18 hrs beyond which it should be left for 6 days.

When burnishing to a mirror finish at least 5 coats are applied. After 4 days lightly sand with very fine wet and dry paper and burnish using Rustins Burnishing paste. Rustins Grain Filler can be used to fill the grain prior to coating. Please visit our web for full info.

Customer Services
Rustins Ltd'

Hope this is informative
Simon