Dust Extraction Advice

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tradesman

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Hi - Im slowly putting together a workshop having previously only used hand tools. I recently picked up a AC216TS - beautiful!
Later I will add a router table and cross cut bench - currently I use the cross cut saw outside and havent got into the router yet.
however before I get gloing the axminster has a 100mm extraction system - with one eye on the future what extractor should I get - I dont do much but I would rather get what i need now.
space is at a premium!
 
With space being a major consideration I would go for perhaps the record Camvac which can be tucked under a bench for static tools, but still portable. If you can site a larger one and can duct the workshop, the use this type. If you need to have it in the space with you, a canister filter is better, the cloth one still leech the finer particles back in the room.

Again if space is available, fit one of these to the ceiling, there will be a noticeable difference in air quality.

Chip and dust extraction is not cheap, but your lungs are priceless! 8)
 
Cheers for the advice - do you think this would do a good enough job ??

The axminster craft-ac82e-1-5hp-dust-extractor at £209

I kind of gulped at £400 - I appreciate its probably worth it - I'm in a high barn at one end so theres plenty of air - the doors are generally open??
 
The ‘suck’ from that is quite good, and will clear the waste away from the machines Just fine. Just be mindful that it only filters down to 30micron, anything under 5 micron is the really nasty stuff, so you should be wearing PPE if you are working near it as you have concentrated the finer particles to a local area by drawing it from the source machines.
 
A 100mm duct flows 1/3 as much air as a 150mm duct. If you want to capture the under 5 micron dust mentioned by Shetonphil at the source (machine) you'll need the bigger duct otherwise some of it won't be captured and it will be in the air around you to filter with your lungs. Actually 10 micron and smaller dust is not visible at all with the naked eye and it is the worst for you to breath. Since you seem to be in this for the long haul you'll save yourself a lot of money, upgrades and redos by getting a bigger DC and ducts from the beginning. Because you are in a barn and work with the doors open you can add a ventilator fan and clear the remaining dust in the air rather than room filters. If you capture at source you won't need a room filter. Best would be to locate a DC in a lean to outside or in a closet and vent it out. At the very least you would be looking for a 2hp with 1 micron cartridge filters. 3 hp with 330mm or bigger impeller as a minimum if you are going to run ducts.

Pete
 
Hi,
I'm brand new here, and have been meaning to sign up for ages. I have done now to ask a question within this thread if thats ok.
I have recently bought the Katsu 100449 chip extractor, and am reasonably happy with it for the <£105 delivered price, but want a hose kit to attach it to my tools. I have the usual suspects, a planer/thickneser with a scoop outlet plus a mitre saw, router etc.
Any advice or recommendations please?
Thanks.
 
Hoses come in many, many sizes. Some are measured by Internal Diameter, some by Outside Diameter.
No two machines have the same sized ports, so its up to you to measure the ports on your machines, and find adaptors to fit.

All the big online shops sell multi adaptors (stepped plastic items with up to 6 sizes, but you have to decide which measurement you need. Its common to make your own from plastic plumbing pipe, and even plywood.
 
Regarding dust extraction, does anyone have recommendations regarding extractors that don't easily suffer from overheating and/or don't heat up too much the shed they're in?
Because worked in several workshops with old extractors that heated up like they were paid for it, and it sort of "scares" me: I was planning to build my own little workshop when I'll finally own some of this property in Greece, and as I'll mostly be there during spring and summer (and later on, if everything goes the way I want, on a regular basis), I don't really want to bake alive in my shed because of a joint effort of the Mediteranean sun and of the extractor.
 
If you build from scratch you can build it with a lean to or room at the end to house the DC and perhaps some wood. It can be sound proofed and vent out so the heat is not in the shop. That way the dust is gone and you don't breathe any thing that may leak from the pressure side of it, bags and filters etc, if it were in the shop.

Pete

PS. A little envy on my part with you having a sunny winter getaway.
 
Tanker_55A":17v5slv4 said:
Regarding dust extraction, does anyone have recommendations regarding extractors that don't easily suffer from overheating and/or don't heat up too much the shed they're in?
Because worked in several workshops with old extractors that heated up like they were paid for it, and it sort of "scares" me: I was planning to build my own little workshop when I'll finally own some of this property in Greece, and as I'll mostly be there during spring and summer (and later on, if everything goes the way I want, on a regular basis), I don't really want to bake alive in my shed because of a joint effort of the Mediteranean sun and of the extractor.

Extractor units are made fit for purpose. If one overheats, its because something is wrong, or has been installed wrong.
I'm in Cyprus, its currently 38c plus every day. I'm using my extraction with no problems at all. I started off with a sip 50 litre canister. It was so noisy I put it inside a sound deadening cabinet without any problem at all. After several years the motor gave out (NOT due to heat) so I changed to a low speed blower purely to keep noise levels to a minimum
I'm only wearing swimming trunks while working, and the sweat is dripping off me and staining the wood I'm working on, but the extractor is fine. :shock: 8) =D>
 
Great, thanks for the detailed explanations! The extractors I've seen that were getting hot were old and as dusty as it gets, so it may have been because of a considerable dust and grime build-up inside, which would make sense as I've never heard a word about cleaning it.
 
If the filter bag isnt cleaned, the machine works harder to pull the air through.
If the motor cooling fans arent cleaned, the motor will not get cooled.
Eventually the machine will overheat and either seize solid or burst into flames.
Basic maintenance.
If what youre seeing is in a premises, as and when they have a fire the insurance company will not pay out once they check the lack of maintenance.
 
Does anyone know of a source for centrifugal fans so I can build my own system?

My plan is to dump the majority of waste into a barrel via a cyclone then pipe the exhaust straight out of the workshop. (No neighbours luckily!)
 
An impeller is what I think is the word your looking for.
I haven't seen any sold anywhere on their own. :(
The closest thing I have seen as a possible source other than gutting an old extraction system are grain blowers.

Probably all are too large, and the impeller may be a different shape.
I have been looking for a 15" impeller for some time for a large trade sized system.
The Bill Pentz website is worth going over, terribly dated website and ultra specific though.
If you want some other information that is easy to understand and readable...
I would be concerned about any advice in which Bill Pentz is not mentioned in.
Sorry I cannot be of more help.
Tom
 
Building your own system usually results in years of frustration trying to get it to perform as good as the system you tried not to buy in the first place. :roll:
Its truly much more complicated than you think.

There are a lot of large used motors and dust bag units for sale. buy one and then run suitable sized pipe.

Honest. been there, done that.
 
Thanks, I was looking at the complete centrifugal fan unit, rather than just the impeller blade. I’ve found a few industrial supply companies however it’s probably cheaper just buy one of the 3hp Chinese SIP etc. complete units.

The next issue is the lack of a decent sized cyclone, it’s a shame the Axminster version is only 100mm, 150mm would be better.
 
In Bill Pentz's site there is a Projects area that has a spreadsheet that will draw out the sheet layout for a cyclone sized to the impeller. Also has the same to design and size the housing too. All you need to make the cyclone is sheet material, screws or pop rivets and some kind of snot to seal the joints. You end up with one of the better designed small shop cyclones. Clear Vue (bought one) makes their cyclones to Bill's design under licence.
Dust Collection Research - Home

Pete
 
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