Drill stand for corded drill.

[macetownhouse]

Hello,
I am looking at getting a drill stand, it is between Milescraft or Wolfcraft.
It is the one that the drill fits into and the drills own chuck is used.

Anyone use either, the money is much the same.

It is to make a large MFT table, the rabbit in my head had his heart set on doing it with a router, but the overdraft is quite adamant that is a no in the negative sense!!

Thank you.

Rob.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Keep an eye open for an old Bosch S7 drill stand, those are excellent. You can put a small Bosch router (with a 43mm colllar) in it as well.

 

[Sideways]

This may be worth a read.
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads/drill-guides.145124/

If you want to make a large MFT there are two obvious methods that will work better than anything else.
One is the parf guide, the other is to have a company CNC machine it for you. Both will be more accurate and better value than a drill guide.

 

[macetownhouse]

I don’t have a half inch router, only a 1/4 trim and 1/2 inch in home made table.
The MFT is mostly for assembly of large sash windows. The dogs are to keep one corner at 90 degrees when glueing up.
Parf system with another router is more than I want to spend.
We are not known for doing things the easiest way.

 

[Sideways]

Parf guide doesn't use a router. Any drill will do, corded or cordless.
Make a couple of tops and sell it on.
The only way you'll cut a really accurate grid or partial grid of holes yourself is a cnc template or a parf guide.

 

[macetownhouse]

Parf guide doesn't use a router. Any drill will do, corded or cordless.
Make a couple of tops and sell it on.
The only way you'll cut a really accurate grid or partial grid of holes yourself is a cnc template or a parf guide.

Thank you, my reply was a little misleading with the router bit.

 

[Doug71]

When there was a few of us working in a busy joiners shop our assembly tables were basically a couple of trestles with a frame on top made from I think 6"x2" with a few 8'x4' sheets of damaged ply or chipboard etc thrown on top of that. If you wanted a 90 degree stop for something like making sash windows you tacked a couple of laths to the bench using a piece of ply as a template, if you wanted a stop to sand or route against you just tacked a lath to the bench for the material to butt up to. Once the top sheet was too covered in holes, paint and glue you turned it over until it was worn out again then another sheet was put on top.

I do now use a nice big MFT style assembly bench with is great but I do sometimes miss the time when I could just crack on and not be bothered about damaging the bench by taking chunks out of it or getting glue etc all over it.

Think what I'm trying to say is MFTs are great (wouldn't be without mine) but there are other ways of doing things, we managed without them for years. I would love to know how many of the 250+ holes in my bench have actually seen any action, it is great to have holes everywhere but I reckon I could probably get by with maybe 10 well placed holes.