Drill Stand Advice Please

[Duncan A]

I have used a 750W Makita drill in the Record Power stand and it worked just fine - but not on 50mm Forstners!
To an extent, it depends on the wood being drilled and how sharp the Forstner bit is, but I found the drill to be lacking torque at the lower speeds suitable for the Forstner, even with the gearbox switched to the lower speed.
It is possible to drill holes in this way, but certainly not ideal. Don't forget also, that the stands pictured need to be screwed to the workpiece or anchored in some other way. Fiddly and frustrating.
Duncan

 

[Terry - Somerset]

I can understand the advantages of these devices for (say) cutting dog holes or similar in a wide board which would be difficult in a small basic drill press, or if space is very limited, or on site.

Otherwise a drill press wins every time - it will be fixed down and and even if basic and underpowered for a 50mm forstner bit, can be fed slowly with ease.

I would guess that they generally date back to the days when power tools were expensive and a much cheaper solution was popular. Any financial benefit has largely disappeared.

 

[okeydokey]

Its not quite on topic but I seem to remember a Black and Decker attachment that screwed to the bench so the drill (with a grindstone on a shaft) could be used horizontally as a bench grinder

 

[mr rusty]

I have a PBD40 that sits on the end of my bench which I bought after much cogitation. I love the easy speed adjustment, height change, laser cross (which I did have to adjust a smidgen from new) and the work light. It's sturdy and accurate enough for what I do, but would not be good enough for heavy duty metalwork. Will certainly drive fostner bits accurately enough for woodwork. (although 35mm is the largest I've used.)

I am pleased I didn't go the traditional route for the uses I have, where the important things were that it was quick and easy to use occasionally.

 

[Sideways]

I doubt many battery drills have 43mm collars.

Two of mine do, the big Bosch and Fein brushless jobbies that are powerful enough to need a side handle.
But for use in a drill stand, I'd be looking at a large corded Metabo / Makita / Bosch. The kind of drill that has the torque to turn big blacksmith's drills or a mixing paddle.

Back in the day, my dad and his brother used to pass a drill and stand back and forth for heavy jobs. The drill was a good 6 inch+ diameter, with a rear handle, and two opposing side handles. Probably some Wolf industrial thing. They were obviously meant for handheld use in construction but I can't imagine it. No safety clutches in those days...

 

[Alpha-Dave]

There are many levels of ‘hand drill’, I have picked up 3x old Wolf models in the last couple of years, including one for free as scrap. Used to drill and ream 16 mm holes in 10 mm steel plate in an old mag-drill base:

The green one runs very slow (440 rpm!) but the torque is insane. The blue ones are 600-1000 rpm. My previous ‘strong drill’ (the grey one) is 3000 rpm:

 

[Sideways]

I had something like your two tone Wolf once. 550W, 3-16mm chuck and low gear was about 300 rpm I guess these were the predecessor of the rotabroach !
Also had a 1980's Bosch hammer until recently. My buddy has that now and with 620 Watts and in low gear it will put a 14mm bit through 10mm plate hand held without much fuss.

 

[Bojam]

Two of mine do, the big Bosch and Fein brushless jobbies that are powerful enough to need a side handle.
But for use in a drill stand, I'd be looking at a large corded Metabo / Makita / Bosch. The kind of drill that has the torque to turn big blacksmith's drills or a mixing paddle.

I use the corded Bosch GSB 21-2RE in my Wabeco stand. Works well, plenty of power, two gears, variable speed, has a trigger lock, etc.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I bought a new Ryobi mains drill for £20 at a harvest festival auction specifically to leave in the drill stand permanently (I have a nice Meddings as well).