Drill Press or Milling Machine?

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Thanks, that's useful info on the maneuverability aspects. Sadly, having had hatchbacks all my life, I've now got a coupe (woo-hoo), so although boot capacity is probably higher, it's much more difficult to get things in and out. But I suspect that I can manage provided I get the head off first. I presume you just undo the clamp and keep lifting it up until it comes off?

I've asked 2 sellers so far about runout, and both claim to have no gauge, hence can't measure runout. Unfortunate.

On "benching" my floor-standing drill, the collar at the bottom ends 360mm above the base, and the top of my secondary table is 250mm above the bottom of the table clamp. In other words, even if I shortened the main column, my table would sit at least 610mm above the top of the base. That's a lot of wasted space!
 
sunnybob":jn7202or said:
So the consensus of a sold shaft says that the head will be a LOT less than half the 68kg.
I would guess something like 25 kg head, 30 kg base and coloum, and 10 kg for the table.
Now your only question is how long is the coloum and base plate combined and will that fit into the car?

I would agree that base/column will be more than half the total weight - the base is a very substantial casting.

The height of the column/base on my Star is 710mm. The base itself is 235mm wide by 390mm deep (max dimensions). The column (55mm diameter) is centered about 120mm from the rear of the base.

I agree also that a drill is much the better way to go than a small bench top mill - apart from the difficulties already mentioned, once you have a drill chuck/bit in the spindle and some sort of vice on the table, you're not left with much height for the work compared with a dedicated drill.
Robin.
 
You can check quill run out good enough for woodwork using a vertical piece of wood with a nail through it. Whilst a proper gauge is nice, it is not necessary for this purpose.

When you go to pick it up you can check this yourself with a simple home made jig. Any concerns and I would knock the spindle out and re-seat it. Have a rubber of copper ,mallet with you and a block of wood. It's also worth checking in advance exactly what chuck is fitted (hopefully not Chinese Jacobs copy but the real deal) and unless it is keyless make sure the key is not worn out and fits the chuck properly. Make sure the chuck jaws are not knackered - fit a drill and run it.

Quite a lot of them seem to be missing the excellent depth stop for some reason. Make sure yours has one.
 
Startrite mercurys are another good one to look for - they are often 3 phase but it is a VERY easy job to swap the motor. That said, if I were in your position I'd be chopping some bits off your existing one to make it work!
Edit
You can also get small XY vices that give some of the functionality of a mill to a drill. You can't use it to mill (side loads and no drawbar) but its fantastic for drilling multiple holes in a workpiece without changing your setup, or just homing in on a mark exactly. I love mine.
 
I have two drillpresses. One for wood and one for metal. Both of them are old and rather heavily built. Way better than the common chineese drillpresses.
To drill metal efficiently without sharpening the drill for every hole one must use cutting fluid and it is more or less impossible to remove cutting fluid stains from wood. Not to mentuion the metal particles that threaten to damage other woodworking tools.
Wood dust would gum up a milling machine in no time so don't take that route.
 
Thanks! I bow to the greater wisdom. I'm back to either adjusting my existing radial machine, or looking out for something "antique" in an auction. I've got my eye on a couple already, but I'm trying to be patient!
 
Having moved an old Fobco in a family workshop many years ago, I can testify that they are definitely bloody solid! How they smiled when I just tried to pick it up by myself...
 
I tried to pick my bench top fobco off the floor and put it on my highish bench and failed, I go to the gym 3 times a week and consider my self quite strong but I just couldn't get it high enough. They aren't an easy shape to pickup which doesn't help.
So +1 on the strip it down advise.

Pete
 
Lbob":361q99op said:
Anyone got the NOVA voyager drill press
It has some cool features.

£1600!? :shock:

I'd rather buy 4 decent Meddings, Fobcos or Elliots at £400 each than pay £1600 on something with fancy electronics which are bound to give up the ghost and cost you an arm and a leg to have fixed because there's no one in Britain who services and stocks parts for them. There's only so much that can go wrong with an old British pillar drill, all usually easy to fix.
 
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