Drill Guide

[mpooley]

I am Making a new workbench at the moment and will be drilling some 3/4" holes for dogs.

I think I should use a drill guide of some sort as I want these to be accurate.

I have looked at the rutlands one and its only got a 3/8" chuck which is not big enough for my forstner bits :? can anyone suggest another one?

thanks

Mike

 

[Paul Chapman]

When I did mine, many years ago, I used my drill in my Record drill stand http://www.recordpower.co.uk/index.php? ... LL%20STAND

I clamped it to the bench top with the head swivelled round and used a flat bit (avoid the bits with the threaded points :wink: ). It was a bit of a fiddle because you are limited with the length of travel - in fact I think I may have clamped the base of the drill stand underneath the top so as to get more travel, but can't really remember now :?

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[mpooley]

Thanks Paul

If I had one that would be a good Idea but at £90 I hope I can find a cheaper option :shock:

thanks again

Mike

 

[Chippyjoe]

Mike,

couldn't you use a router and template to do it?

Did you ever get fixed up with the Clifton plane? have been so busy lately that have had no chance to get over to see you.

Mark.

 

[mpooley]

Mike,

couldn't you use a router and template to do it?

Did you ever get fixed up with the Clifton plane? have been so busy lately that have had no chance to get over to see you.

Mark.

ooh yes thats an idea! a good one - I will have to look at those templates for small circles that axminster sell - would be handy to have I think

Yes I did go ahead and buy a clifton and then I saw a number 3 like you have on Ebay for quite a reasonable price :? brand new and still in its wrapping .

so in one week i got 2 cliftons :shock:

I must say I love the no'3 its so handy

If you do ever come over this way = pop in and see me -I need someone to show me how to use them now :lol:


Mike

 

[OPJ]

Those Record stands are probably the best that I've seen at our end of the market. Is it worth scouring eBay for a second-hand model?

A few years ago, I bought a Wolfcraft drillstand via. eBay on the back of glowing comments in one of the magazines and I only got round to using it for the first time this week! :shock: I can't get the link to work but, you'll find it on eBay as the "Wolfcraft 4522 Tec Mobil Drill Stand". Yes, I have been using it to drill holes in my 'bench top too, with my Metabo SDS drill. :wink: It's not a bad piece of kit, although if you apply too much downward force then it's easy to drill slightly off vertical. I also find it hard to know when you've actually hit the depth stop. If you push too hard then, you can also move it. :? (I'm pleased to say I payed less than £20 for mine, including postage! 8))

I doubt that the Record models suffer from most of these problems. Looking on eBay, Wolcraft appear to do other models as well.

What drill bit are you thinking of using? Only, I've been struggling with a ¾" forstner from Wealden - they clog up very quickly and then begin to burn easily; very frustrating! They're really best for shallow, stopped holes. Flat bits do cut much faster and also clear the waste away but, they're quite wild and can very easily make a mess.

I've noticed that Wealden do 20mm diameter lip and spur bits for less than £10 - I may buy one of those... :roll: My only concern here is that a marginally over-sized hole (20mm) may affect the Veritas accessories (dogs and clamps), which all have ¾" shanks? It's probably nothing to worry about though...?

 

[mpooley]

Hiya Olly
I was going to use those forstners from axminster that have saw teeth on them Ive found them to very good in the past.

I also have a set of Bosch spade bits which are excellent - I went through a few rubbish one on my oak conservatory build before I found the bosch ones.

I like the idea of the router now though - at least i cant get them off vertical :?

Mike

 

[Boz62]

Hello again!

I'm glad you brought this subject up. My Forstners aren't long enough for this (and flat bits are far too scary :shock, so I was going to add a 3/4" Axy sawtooth cutter to my next order. Are these the ones you have had success with Mike? I only have a T5 and think it would struggle with the router option

Boz

 

[mpooley]

Hello again!

I'm glad you brought this subject up. My Forstners aren't long enough for this (and flat bits are far too scary :shock, so I was going to add a 3/4" Axy sawtooth cutter to my next order. Are these the ones you have had success with Mike? I only have a T5 and think it would struggle with the router option

Boz

Boz
I have just had a look and cant find any name on the bits - they do have a black shank though - I do have one Axminster gold shanked 50mm bit and to be honest its rubbish.

I have looked on the axminster site and cant find these ones I have - they are not clico - I.ve had them a few years so maybe they dont do them any more?

sorry i cant help more

Mike

 

[Paul Chapman]

Flat bits do cut much faster and also clear the waste away but, they're quite wild and can very easily make a mess.

Olly,

I've found flat bits quite good but you need to be careful with them. There seem to be two main types as in this picture

The one on the right has two outer spurs which helps to cut a cleaner hole. However, many of them have threaded centre points. I've always thought that this is a stupid idea for a bit that's to be used in a power drill, because when you release the trigger the threaded point carries on drawing the bit into the wood until the drill stops, so it's really out of control. I always file off the thread and make it a plain point - it works very well like that.

The other things to remember are to engage the point on the workpiece before starting the drill. Only remove the bit from the hole after it's stopped spinning. And clamp a scrap piece underneath to spop breakout.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Rich]

How about an Auger in a hand brace, slowly does, it with an engineers square clamped next to the intended dog hole.

Rich.

 

[OPJ]

Okay, thanks for that, Paul.

I bought a set of bits from Screwfix a few years ago (branded Cabinet Maker). They definitely have the outer spurs and I think they may also be threaded as well... Before I spend any more money then, I'll file off the thread, as you suggest, and give it a try in some scrap beech. :wink:

I didn't realise it was actually good practice to start the drill with the centre points in contact, either - even though I've done it plenty of times when fitting mortise locks...! I was planning to set the depth stop so the point just breaks through the underside and then turn the top over and finish drilling from there; hopefully avoiding breakout!

Back on the subject of forstners...

The one I have from Wealden looks like a sawtooth-style bit. But, I still have trouble drilling deep holes in hardwood with it. You may be okay in softwood and the results would undoubtedly improve with sheet materials.

 

[mpooley]

Mine actual seem better in Oak than pine!


Mike

 

[Boz62]

Thanks for the feedback.

My Forstners are actually cheapo ones that were on offer at Screwfix a few months ago, just to try them . However they have been a minor revelation to me, very good in softwood and thinner oak and even in OSB (but awful in plywood). You do need a pokey drill however - they really bog down my underpowered piller drill! I'll try a sawtooth sometime.

Non of my flat bits have the threaded point, but no spurs either (they're all antiques), but thanks for the useful advice there Paul. I've always drilled a small pilot hole first, which does seem to help them, is this normal? I'll do some trials with them and with a sawtooth before I start attacking large lumps of hardwood.

I've never had much success with an auger and brace. Always seems to splinter badly and to wander. This is on softwood. So I'm rather wary of them.

Olly, I'd be inclined to stick to 3/4" or 19mm for the dog holes. I fear a Wonderdog may be too loose a fit and wander, and could even start damaging the dog-hole if there is any slop in the fit

Boz

 

[Paul Chapman]

Non of my flat bits have the threaded point, but no spurs either (they're all antiques), but thanks for the useful advice there Paul.

Before they started making them with spurs, some people used to create their own spurs with a triangular file - works quite well and leads to a cleaner cut. I don't think a pilot hole with a flat bit is a good idea because the bit has an effective, long centre point.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[mpooley]

My Bosch Flat bits have the screw thread and to be honest I cant see what is wrong with them - they work great.

Mike

 

[SVB]

I have just done the drilling of the dog holes on my new bench.

I must admit that I just marked the start point (tape measure for spacing and marking gauge to give inset from edge) and then gave them a good dig with an awl to give the drill somewhere to start.

I then used a plain forstner bit in my B&D mains drill and eye-balled vertical. I tested the hole for true with my veritas dog and all but one was fine. I re-drilled that one as it was slightly off vertical and I suppose the hole is not slightly oval at the bottom now but it does not seem to effect performance.

Doing this I have a nice row of well spaced dog holes.

So, my conclusions - absolute perfection is not essential, drill and try you fittings in the hole - you can always open them out by re-drilling at a slightly different angle - it does not seem to affect performance.

Based on the above, I would not think a 20mm hole would be a problem either Olly.

 

[DaveL]

Based on the above, I would not think a 20mm hole would be a problem either Olly.

I drilled 20mm dog holes in my bench and the Veritas dog/pups and wonder dogs work OK in that size,but the Surface clamp, this one:

Does not grip well in them, I have now bought a 3/4" bit and at some time may plug the 20mm holes and redrill so new ones. :roll:

 

[OPJ]

Thanks, guys. Interesting stuff.

I'm planning to mainly use the dogs in the top so, yes, 20mm shouldn't be a problem there. They have those springs to tighten the fit anyway. :wink:

Dave, I was planning to buy that surface clamp at some point... :?

What sort of ¾" bit did you buy and where from? Also, as I intend to put some holes along the front edge of my 'bench top, how long is the shank? (How deep would these holes need to be?)

 

[DaveL]

Olly,

I am sure I got this bit in Tilgear:

I have looked in their current catalogue and cannot see single bits listed but they do show a boxed set, which I also have:

I find these carbide tipped cutters work well in hard wood, but don't self guide quite as well as 'proper' fosters as there is no almost solid ring on the outside.

The surface clamp needs a hole 1½" deep.