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Well, after scouring eBay for a cheap 19mm drill bit (thinking auger or flat), I came across something known as a Wood Beaver [why are eBay links so bloody long?! :x] and have just sent my payment through PayPal! :roll: :wink:

It looks like an interesting piece of design and I look forward to seeing how it handles my 3in. air-dried beech! :D

19mm's a lot closer to ¾"; probably too small if anything but, I should be able to ream it out enough if necessary.

What did you guys decide on for hole centres? I've been thinking of either 150mm or 200mm? (Sorry, Mike, we appear to have gone off-topic here... :oops:)
 
So I think you have bought one of these?

727c_2.JPG
 
My centres are circa 8" apart, 65mm in from the front edge of the bench (10" centres over vice though to avoid metal bits!)

S
 
OPJ":211rbpzx said:
What did you guys decide on for hole centres? I've been thinking of either 150mm or 200mm?

You need to base the spacing on how far the vice opens - make it a bit less so that you can always clamp the workpiece between the vice dog and the bench dogs.

Cheers :wink:

Paul
 
I bought a set of these
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/84016/Dri ... -6-Pieces#
for the 19mm bit. I used a mains drill. To get perpendicularity I drilled someholes through some square blocks of wood 2-3" thick until I tested one to be perfectly upright, then clamped it over where I wanted to drill the holes and drilled down until I couldn't get any further, then removed the block of wood to finish the hole all the way through. The leevalley stuff fits perfect and the axminster alu' dogs are an interference fit too.
edit: the block of wood clamped on top prevents spelch too!
Alan
 
Paul Chapman":1e1098pu said:
You need to base the spacing on how far the vice opens - make it a bit less so that you can always clamp the workpiece between the vice dog and the bench dogs.

Paul,

I thought about that but with the travel of a wonder pup realised that my bench top would look like a secondhand piece from a war-zone. I therefore reasoned that I will be clamping something and if it is less than approx 4" I have accepted that I will need to use a piece of scrap to make the differnce.

Simon.
 
Don't forget that due to the thickness of the brass jaw block on a Wonderpupdog, for thinner stuff you'll need to use a bit of scrap as a spacer to keep the jaw away from your plane or router anyway. Using scrap spacers also saves lots of winding on the fine thread in the pupdog :D

Boz
 
Dave, yes, that's the one! :D

I only wish I'd gone ahead at ordered it earlier in the day as it probably won't turn up until tomorrow now. :(
 
Looking at the "wood beaver" it only has a 1/4" shank. I don't wish to dampen spirits but if you're going through hardwood with that, given the pull rate of the thread in the centre, that's an awful lot of stress on it. The Screwfix bit I used needed a lot of force behind it to get through beech.

Alan
 
mikepooley":36r2cxgi said:
Chippyjoe":36r2cxgi said:
Mike,

couldn't you use a router and template to do it?

Did you ever get fixed up with the Clifton plane? have been so busy lately that have had no chance to get over to see you.

Mark.

ooh yes thats an idea! a good one - I will have to look at those templates for small circles that axminster sell - would be handy to have I think :)

Mike

I have been using a routerand a 20mm hinge bit. I am also duplicating the Festool MFT hole spacing as with that you can easly get a 45degree angle.It is a 96mm grid.

I have checked the difference between 3/4" and 20mm and since the main items I will use are 20mm I am using that as a standard.

I did find that 3/4" dogs are not good in 20mm holes. I have adapted the wonder pup to fit a 20mm hole with a tape wrap but will only use20mm dogs.

FWIW the workmate dogs are 20mm :D
 
Thats not a bad Idea :) (20mm hinge bit)

also im interested in what you say about the 96 mm spacings. do you have to have a grid of holes for this to work ?
and how does it work anyway? :D :oops:
 
mikepooley":12l53wr6 said:
Thats not a bad Idea :) (20mm hinge bit)

also im interested in what you say about the 96 mm spacings. do you have to have a grid of holes for this to work ?
and how does it work anyway? :D :oops:

Yes you do need a grid.
P3222099.jpg
the 96mm spacing is easy using my 32mm system guide

As I will need more than just the one top I have made a template using a 30mm Hinge bit. This is due to the fact that my router has a 30mm guide ring and the bit is avalable

For more information about the MFT there is a review at
http://benchmark.20m.com/reviews/Festool_MFT/FestoolMftReview.html
And here.
http://www.thewoodshop.20m.com/festool_mft1.htm

I find the clamping elements are very good, not cheap but good.

http://www.festooljunkie.com/catalo...aphernalia/festool-mft-clamping-elements.html
clamp1_300.jpg


You can find some more information on my bench at
http://www.routerforums.com/guide-b...-interested-template-guides-2.html#post116688
and
http://meekings.selfip.com/photo-groups/more-groups/Summer_2007/Workbench_Summer_2007/index.html
 
Wasn'nt thinking of lashing out on a festool system :shock:

but i do like the idea of the grid of locating holes mmh

just got to work out a way of doing it :?

or you could post me your template :D :D
 
mikepooley":1a3div65 said:
Wasn'nt thinking of lashing out on a festool system :shock:

For me the MFT was just too much and I want a workshop bench anyway so it is also not stable enough.

mikepooley":1a3div65 said:
but i do like the idea of the grid of locating holes mmh
Me too. That is why I decided to roll my own.


mikepooley":1a3div65 said:
just got to work out a way of doing it :?

or you could post me your template :D :D

Well one row is off by about 2 or 3 mm :D So all you have to do is arrange shipping of a 1.3m x 1.7m x 10mm sheet from Thailand :lol: :roll: :twisted:
 
Woody Alan":1vgz4yeg said:
Looking at the "wood beaver" it only has a 1/4" shank. I don't wish to dampen spirits but if you're going through hardwood with that, given the pull rate of the thread in the centre, that's an awful lot of stress on it.

Alan, I can understand your concerns and I was half expecting mine to break sometime today - probably before the last hole... :roll: But, it didn't! :D In fact, I'm highly impressed with this Wood Beaver bit; it has done everything they said it would in the advert.

As you can imagine, it cuts like an auger - in the sense that, if you don't have both hands on your drill then, you're going to end up with a broken wrist!! :shock: It went racing through my 3in. thick beech, told the depth stop on my Wolfcraft drill where to go and, most impressively, left a beautifully clean hole on the underside!! 8)

Occasionally, a couple of chips needed removing from the end of the bit but, there's still plenty of life left in this Beaver! :wink: 19mm holes make for a very snug fit of the Veritas gear as well - I'm very happy! :)
 
I reckon you only need four holes in a template :)

drill four holes then using two dogs to hold it in place you can progress along the wortop two holes at a time :D
 
Olly said
Beaver bit; it has done everything they said it would in the advert.
Excellent, obviously tougher than it looks in the pic or very well engineered/designed. Yes I think the 19mm is a very snug fit but given a bit of use the holes will ease over time, I'm glad I chose that size.

Alan
 
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