Dovetailed Infill - First Fumblings

[CroppyBoy1798]

Although I'm finding the work amazing I am though finding it incredibly hard not to visualise Fr Dougal Maguire making a dovetailed infill! It just doesnt sit right! That profile pic is incredibly disconcerting!! :lol:

The thread is very inspiring though, would love to tackle one of these planes someday (guess I have a reason too seen as I now have a spare 2 1/4 inch old tapered iron and cap iron laying about......damn!) :roll:

 

[Racers]

Hii,

Why not cheat and weld the sides to the base? You could make one of these.

Pete

 

[Richard T]

Thanks Mick

Croppyboy Ah c'mon Ted, if I can do it, any old ejit can. I'm no Jeffrey Archer but ....etc.
2 1/4 inch iron eh? Wide enough for something longer perhaps.

Pete Who done that? Did you done that? Does it have a thread (the other kind) somewhere?
I think Ray Iles used to make welded ones commercially. I'm sure I've followed an old link to a "discontinued item" page a while back.
Don't know why though; it would certainly save a lot of time and thus bring the cost down. More so than casting I should think.

I've just got the two sides fitted to the back sole BTW. The second one went on with far less complaining than the first.

 

[Racers]

Hi, Richard

Yes I made it quite a fey years ago, it works very well and will tame the most difficult timber.

It doesn't have a tread but here are some pictures.

The sides and adjuster post are welded to the base, the backing plate for the blade has spring loaded pins.
The cap iron is just bits of metal riveted together, the infills are Yew held in with epoxy and brass screws in shallow countersinkd with the heads filled off.

Pete

p.s. Shouldn't you take thet ring off? if you where to pineapple it flat with a hammer you would be in trouble :shock:

 

[Richard T]

Stunnin'. That's a brilliant design. An elegant and simple way to change the angle. And only the second one I've seen.
Only just the other day I was wondering what yew would be like as infill material and if anyone had tried it (I have some you see.)
I also have laburnum, wych elm, holly and believe it or not, elder and cotoneaster in big enough sections. But those last two have only just arrived in a green firewood drop off so it will be a while.

I draw the line at wearing the ring for blacksmithery but bench work seems ok. I would be in trouble - it's only the second ring she made.

 

[Richard T]

Here's the state of play this evening.

Just about got the front half pins cut out this afternoon and sides to just bite in all the way along.

Here it is fully together on the back sole half with all the bits so far

And a tantalising idea of the near future (I hope).

I just can't believe that it's all gone together. Mind you, holding the front sole to scribe was a three- clamp - problem.

 

[jimi43]

WOW Richard! It looks like one of those fancy 3D diagrams!

That is going to be one regal plane my friend! I bet it will heft a few ounces too once it's infilled!

Have you decided what you are going to fill it with?

Now for the bit that can be a pein!!! :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

Jimi

 

[Richard T]

Thanks Jim. I haven't weighed it but it feels about twice as heavy as the Veritas - so 6lb + :shock:

I have been thinking about what to fill it with and have made no decisions ... I've got plenty of suitable stuff set aside for use in ten years time, but only really have a choice of beech, wych elm, yew or laburnum that would be stable enough now. I might look into buying some old walnut if it comes to it. Where from though: Any hints?

The next thing to do, after getting the front dovetails as good a fit as the rear, is to cut the angle on the frog plate, rivet it on and then draw the line of the blade down to the sole. This will (hopefully) give me an ejit proof guide of how much open the mouth.

 

[Kalimna]

Laburnum - a lovely wood, and not very often seen

Adam

 

[jimi43]

I have been thinking about what to fill it with and have made no decisions ... I've got plenty of suitable stuff set aside for use in ten years time, but only really have a choice of beech, wych elm, yew or laburnum that would be stable enough now. I might look into buying some old walnut if it comes to it. Where from though: Any hints?

Hi Richard

This is one that gets me everytime. Of course...if there was a continuous supply of Rio, the answer would be solved but naturally, there isn't so that's out.

I don't have anything exotic that wide...otherwise you would be welcome to it.

Try calling Robert at Timberline Exotic Hardwoods - Tonbridge or call him on 01732 355626. He's a wealth of knowledge on hardwoods and has some nice stock.

I think he has some bog oak....how about that!!!? A tad expensive though!

Is the rear handle going to be a handle or just a bun? You could use a nice burr if you are not going for a handle.

What about ebony or African blackwood? That would be a beautiful contrast with the steel.

Jim

 

[LuptonM]

I vote cocobolo

 

[Richard T]

The plan is to have a full handle at the back with the adjuster mechanism let into it - so that will need quite a big piece.
I've just been to look at the dry laburnum that I have and one log might be wide enough ... I will cut it bias anyway, whatever it is, so that will make it longer diagonally.
Though elm is tempting. I know it's not traditional or tight grained but it's very strong, smooth and hard. I have a block somewhere that was from the middle of a fork - could be quite interesting.

Bog oak .... hmmmm... I don't know what that is like to work with. We saw something on Bargain Hunt the other day made from bog oak; they couldn't afford it. :wink: Looked more like jade.

Still, this is just the first plane. I hope there will be many more and as many infill choices. I'll get on with some more before I start bothering everyone with adjuster arguments.

 

[Richard T]

Cocobolo ... the most dreaded of all tropical diseases ... You'll have to forgive me folks, I know next to nada about exotic arboreal foreigners. I try to use native wood as much as I can for everything else so this infill business might be an eye opener.

 

[jimi43]

Cocobolo is a wonderful "modern" alternative...and it is a beautiful wood to work.

With some of my UV treatment it will age towards Rio colour...in a few decades! :mrgreen:

Yes...I think bog oak might be a bit expensive BUT...Robert may have some offcuts that might be cheap(ish)...give him a tinkle...he is a helpful chap if you catch him on the right day!

It is worth signing up to his newsletter...he doesn't bombard you with useless junk and they don't come often but when they do it is usually to announce some special arrivals. He has a huge collection of wood types and fair prices...highly recommended.

Jim

 

[Richard T]

Thanks Jim, I may well do just that; if not for this one, then in the near future.

 

[Aled Dafis]

Nice work Richard.

I still can't see through your reasoning for the tongue and grooved sole, it just seems like a lot of hard graft for no real reason to me, but nevertheless, it seems very well executed. I would have kept this little trick for when you make a chariot plane or even an improved mitre.

As regards the infill, I used Walnut for one of mine, and then ebonised it using a mixture of Vinegar and steel wool, which worked a treat. The Walnut was quite easy to work, was nice and stable, and was then finished to a nice dark (almost black) finish.

Cheers

Aled

P.S. Don't forget the three layers of masking tape for protecting the plane sides when peining.

 

[Richard T]

Thanks Aled.
Yes, the only real reason for me making the sole in two pieces was to see if I could. After looking at the mitre sole demo on Bill Carter's site I just wanted to have a go at that joint. You know how it is with some joints .... just want to have a go... Also I thought it would be easier to open the mouth - I 'spose you can cut it quicker as you can use a saw but it has certainly been more of a faff over all and I certainly won't be doing one in future unless needed.

And I do like the idea of walnut as it is so traditional for Norris and others of period.

Ill try to remember the tape ... :roll:

 

[jimi43]

Aled...that is an interesting tip there with the vinegar and steel wool...where did you get that idea from?

I wonder if it will darken all types of wood?

Jim

 

[Richard T]

I finally had a go at mounting the frog plate yesterday. Drilled three pilot holes in the plate, then clamped the plate to the sole and spotted the front two holes. Drilled those as pilot holes before drilling out to the final size.
I've now riveted the the two front rivets and now it's really solid, will drill out the back hole and rivet that.

Even though I took as much care as I possibly could, the plate is still not absolutely dead square. Note to self: next time I will mount the plate sightly too far forward, rivet it on and file it back.
As it is, I will have to file back some of the mouth before reaching the plate. In this case it's ok because I have to open up the mouth anyway but if I had already chain drilled and filed the mouth to size, I'd be in trouble now, doomed to have a wide mouth forever. :|

I keep looking at (and poking) my collection of posh wood for handles; Elm or Laburnum .... Hmmm ...

 

[BelgianPhil]

I keep looking at (and poking) my collection of posh wood for handles; Elm or Laburnum .... Hmmm ...

You need a quick release system so you can have Elm on weekdays and Laburnum on weekends, bank holidays, Christmas and your birthday.