Double glazing trim

[DrPhill]

I know that we have got off very lightly compared to some, but the recent inclement weather has highlighted defects in the glazing of our bay window.

The frames were fitted with a gap all round that was filled with foam. Fair enough, but the foam was sealed in with mortar of some kind, and this mortar has cracked and eroded. Water gets in between the frame and the masonry. I am looking for a temporary (a couple of years) solution until we have gathered the money (and will power) to replace the entire bay with glass.

My currently favoured solution is to fit some upvc beading over the join between window and frame using a waterproof glue. Any suggestions? 'Sticks like pineapple' is on special offer at our local jewsons, making it look cheaper than silicone sealant. Would this work?

Has anyone here attempted similar? Did it work?

thanks in advance for any help

Phill

 

[MMUK]

28mm D mould fitted with 1mm double sided tape to the frame. Then run a bead of LMN Silicone to the brickwork and plastic-2-plastic. You can pick up all the necessary from Eurocell quite cheaply.

 

[Hivenhoe]

Cement and foam suck water in. Bed beads on a decent sealant, SLP should do, then seal all exposed edges. Mastic will part from the brick/render over time, knife off and re-seal.

 

[DrPhill]

28mm D mould fitted with 1mm double sided tape to the frame. Then run a bead of LMN Silicone to the brickwork and plastic-2-plastic. You can pick up all the necessary from Eurocell quite cheaply.

Thanks for the quick response. My nearest Eurocell is in Bridgewater and will be closed before I get through the floods. Your suggestion of double sided tape indicates that the weatherproof-ness of the adhesive for the plastic is not critical. Finishing with silicone obviously is.

I may be able to stock up at the local jewsons for a fix-up tomorrow.

 

[DrPhill]

Cement and foam suck water in. Bed beads on a decent sealant, SLP should do, then seal all exposed edges. Mastic will part from the brick/render over time, knife off and re-seal.

Thanks, but......

SLP? Mastic?

I am not familiar with these terms to understand you answer fully. Are you saying to use sealant to stick the beads? Is 'sticks like shot' the same as 'mastic'.

Please excuse my ignorance.

Phill

 

[Hivenhoe]

Sorry Phil, "Sticks like pineapple" or a low modular mastic. Bead size to suit, tapes can be a little tricky if you've not used before as can super glue even if you have?

 

[MMUK]

I wouldn't bed the trims on top of compo, they won't stick properly. The trim will eventually fall out and bring the compo out with them.

 

[Hivenhoe]

I wouldn't bed the trims on top of compo, they won't stick properly. The trim will eventually fall out and bring the compo out with them.

I agree , would have thought that goes without saying but......

 

[DrPhill]

Sorry Phil, "Sticks like pineapple" or a low modular mastic. Bead size to suit, tapes can be a little tricky if you've not used before as can super glue even if you have?

Yes, it just occurred to me while eating lunch. I can be dense at times. The 'instant bond' feature may make the job a little nerve wracking, but life is a learning experience.

Mastic will part from the brick/render over time, knife off and re-seal.

Understood, but not a problem. We are doing up the house and had long-term plans to remove the bay windows and half-wall. Ideally replace with doors to the middle and full-length glass either side. We just need to get some higher priority jobs done first. If I need to reseal the window beading in a few years it will remind me of this plan.

I wouldn't bed the trims on top of compo, they won't stick properly. The trim will eventually fall out and bring the compo out with them.

'Compo' being the 'mortar like stuff' concealing the bodging foam? I am a bit behind in technologies these days - all these glues and foams and such are still labelled in my mind as the 'no more proper jobs' range. Still if the mortar does fall out and take the trim then I will need to redo the job. A couple of years grace is what I need.

I legged it down to Jewson and got some strips, some SLP and some external grade silicon sealant. Plan is to use the SLP to stick the plastic, and seal with the silicone if needed. The SLP boasts that it sticks to damp surfaces, so I may be able to crack on with the job tomorrow.

Thanks for your help guys - it is great to have experienced views when tackling a job for the first time.

 

[Hivenhoe]

"The SLP boasts that it sticks to damp surfaces, so I may be able to crack on with the job tomorrow."
There's damp and then there's Somerset damp, wipe plastic down first to remove grime, dust and moisture. Oh, try not to get in too much mesh and have a dog or cat handy just in case you need to boot something

 

[DrPhill]

"The SLP boasts that it sticks to damp surfaces, so I may be able to crack on with the job tomorrow."
There's damp and then there's Somerset damp, wipe plastic down first to remove grime, dust and moisture. Oh, try not to get in too much mesh and have a dog or cat handy just in case you need to boot something

:lol:

Luckily we are so far west in Somerset we are almost in Devon. And about 40m above sea level on the side of a south facing hill. Our damp comes from the sky, not the ground or the sea. For which we are most thankful. The poor people on the levels have far more problems than do we - I am not sure how I would cope with those conditions. Badly I expect.

We have two dogs to kick, but they know the sound of DIY and keep well away. 'Mind your head' is one of the first things our puppies learn round here. I made sure they had one or two uncomfortable (but not too uncomfortable) experiences when sticking their snouts into 'man stuff'. They soon learnt. Best for them, best for me.

 

[Lons]

Phill

What MMUK said.

I would always silicone the quadrant to the PVCu frame as well as the masonary as it's the only way to prevent water ingress IMO. the mistake most people make is using cheap cr+p silicone - you get what you pay for.

Bob

 

[rafezetter]

If you have it available near you try getting hold of stixall - it's both an adhesive & sealant interior and exterior grade, white / clear / brown / black. You can use it to bed the trim and then seal the edges. It's a bit thicker viscosity than sealant, so once you've done 1 wet finger down the bead LEAVE IT ALONE, or it'll pull and just go horribly wrong.

The problem with many ones such as sticks like**** / no nails etc is they go hard over time, losing their bond.

another possibility for the adhesive is stelmax PVC filler which welds pvc > pvc, and favored by many fitters, but you'll still need to seal it after.

DON'T use a solvent based adhesive like griptite, gripfill or pinkgrip or you'll get burn through which will show on the front face of the trim as a stain where it was applied on the back.

 

[Hivenhoe]

Stelmax is "plastic" in a tube and great when you need a thin, non rub off seal but can crack over time. It's not like any other sealant to use and not for the faint hearted, you can end up with an horrible mess on everything as it will flow out under hydraulic pressure for some time if you cut more than a notch in the tube top.

 

[DrPhill]

Thanks to all. I got the stuff done today - quite a mess**, but hopefully watertight. The way the spacings were I had to put the trim at right angles to the face of the frame - and would have done that at the bottom anyway to bridge across the mortar line to the sloping tiles.

The render was wonkit, so I wound up using too much 'Sticks Like Shot' and scraping it off with my finger. So SLS now forms the seal as well as the glue. I can go back after and coat in silicone, but if it gives me a couple of years respite from damp ingress it was worth it.

Eventually we want to remove the windows and half walls (maybe even the flat roof) and replace with glass and doors. A 'time limited solution' may nudge us out of a future complacency.

**Not familiar with the materials, a natural incompetence, and short of sleep due to a sore-throat and tickly cough. All the days recently when I had to sit inside, and the first chance I get to do the job I throw a sicky. Ah well, next time it urinates down maybe (just maybe) I will have the fillip of knowing I solved yet another of the many small problems in our 'project'.

 

[MMUK]

Give me a shout when you want to do the swap out for new, I can do you a UKWS discount as long as there's plenty of tea and coffee

 

[DrPhill]

If you want to quote for the job, or just ballpark figures so we could plan ahead we would certainly be interested. Even a sanity check Its a long way from your part of the world to mine though......

 

[MMUK]

If you want to quote for the job, or just ballpark figures so we could plan ahead we would certainly be interested. Even a sanity check Its a long way from your part of the world to mine though......

Distance is no object. Just make sure it's not flooded. I'll tie it in with a cider run :mrgreen:

If you want to fire over a couple of pics I can work out approx sizes from brickwork.

 

[DrPhill]

If you want to quote for the job, or just ballpark figures so we could plan ahead we would certainly be interested. Even a sanity check Its a long way from your part of the world to mine though......

Distance is no object. Just make sure it's not flooded. I'll tie it in with a cider run :mrgreen:

If you want to fire over a couple of pics I can work out approx sizes from brickwork.

I will pm some pics tomorrow, and some measurements, because it is rendered....... Toying with the idea of a sloped glass roof to match the tile line (currently a rather ugly flat roof that does not look right).