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1784rf

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Hi I have some experience with joinery my late father made window so have some machines mortise and a Sip spindle moulding machine model 01576 and a few different routers, 10 ins saw bench i want to start to make doors and window for an old school I have, The windows and door are all gothic arch very deep 6ins, i need to repair and make some new opening casement, I have cutter sets but they don't look big enough. Do i need a bigger moulding machine or can i do it another way, my father use to make Tennon joints by hand and just router out the moulding. i want to do it all on machine without buying expensive tooling any help advise would be welcome. I have 3 phase so bigger machines not a problem.
 
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Hi I have some experience with joinery my late father made window so have some machines mortise and a Sip spindle moulding machine model 01576 and a few different routers, 10 ins saw bench i want to start to make doors and window for an old school I have, The windows and door are all gothic arch very deep 6ins, i need to repair and make some new opening casement, I have cutter sets but they don't look big enough. Do i need a bigger moulding machine or can i do it another way, my father use to make Tennon joints by hand and just router out the moulding. i want to do it all on machine without buying expensive tooling any help advise would be welcome. I have 3 phase so bigger machines not a problem.
it says 2800w for the SIP machine which is not bad - a bit on the small size but that just means slower feed rates or several passes for a big cut.
Mouldings look fairly plain you might get away with simple cutters and a rebate block.
I'd start by getting one window out and on to the bench. Take it apart and see how repairable it is, if at all. In the process you get a good idea of the design, details and what kit you need, for all the others.
Repair might be best if you don't want to get kitted up for a production job.
 
Hi there's a product range called repair care which is perfect for this. You use a die grinder to "eat away" all the rotten wood, then prime with a liquid 2 pack epoxy and then use the thixotropic paste to fill back what you remove. It has the bendiness and same hardness as the wood. It's super expensive, but allows effective replacement of just the rotten mortice and tenon joints. Not woodworking I know, but great conservation

https://www.repair-care.co.uk/wood-repair/
 
Rather than bigger tools, can you build up the shape using two or three smaller pieces and make up the shape with the tools you have?
 
That looks a fun project.

Are there any totally original windows left to copy? The windows in the photos have been messed around with, looks like someone has taken the easy route and replaced the bottom of them but left the Gothic arches untouched.

You will be fine with the machinery you have.
 
From the pictures, as @Doug71 said, they've certainly been *******ised, Is it listed or any other constraints applied?, which may dictate your approach.

Worth seeing if you can find any old pictures of what was there originally as a guide for replication.

You've got a spindle moulder, worst case is buying a rebate block, a moulding block and cutters to replicate any mouldings, all available from: Spindle tooling.

If your SM has a sliding carriage you could set it up to cut tenons on that, but your will probably need a tenoning block, again readily available.
 
can anyone recommend a sealing strip for the opening window and for sealing the glass to the glazing all the windows have internal wood beads i don't want to use putty i have seen a few on line but don't know what's the best, i have seen one that fits around the glass with a small lip onto the outside wood frame
 
Are we talking single or double glazing?

I'm not a fan of internal beading for glazing but there are reasons for and against both methods.

Most of the draught strips need a groove cutting in the window frame before they are assembled so not easy to retro fit. You can use a wiping seal like Aquamac AQ21 in the sashes but it's better in the frame.
 
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