Door seals - Schlegel AQ21

[chris.gid]

Hi forum, im replacing an internal door from our kitchen to a conservatory (which we dont heat) and want to get a decent air seal on it.

Im making the door from birch ply and polycarbonate sheet. When i have made internal doors before i have always used self adhesive roam or rubber P section seals. These tend to get chewed up or fall off (esp on the hinge side of the door).

I've ordered some Schlegel AQ21 which looks like it just sits in groove you cut with a special router cutter.

Just wondering if anyone has fitted this before and whether this holds up well? Does the seal ever come out of the groove and is it worth trying to glue it in?

 

[Doug71]

It is good stuff, you will have no problems if you fit it correctly, no need to glue it.

Are you using it as a compression seal so the door closes against it or wiping seal that will brush the edge of the door?

If it's as a compression seal you only need a groove to hold it in but if it's a wiping seal you need a channel with a groove in which is easier with the special cutters.

 

[chris.gid]

Just the compression seal (ie between the door and the jam).

Most of the problems i've had with seals in the past have been on the hinge side of the door, i guess there you have more of a sideways drag across the seal rather than a push down on top of the seal. Would you recommend a fitting the seal in the door frame rather than the jam?

 

[Doug71]

Back of a fag packet type sketch whilst having my coffee of the usual ways of fitting it

 

[Ollie78]

I just used a bunch on a big door. It is really quite tight in the groove, I fitted some small test pieces and they were very hard to remove. You won't need glue.
For my job a 55mm thick door I ran it both ways. As a compression seal on the stop side ( add 3mm to the rebate ) and as a wiping seal on the jamb side. So both of the ways in @Doug71 fag packet drawing.

Worked very well.
I used the trend router bit.

Ollie

 

[Yojevol]

Yes, I fitted an AQ21 on my oak front door. Same fitting all the way round in the frame so it compresses on the hinge side and wipes on the other side, top and bottom.
I bought a Trend router cutter to do the job and sold it on afterwards for almost the new price.
Brian

 

[Fitzroy]

I've fitted by cutting the groove with my table saw which has a 3mm kerf, compared to the specified 2.7mm slot width. It works fine and holds well except sometime at the ends of the slot, where I have used a dot of superglue to keep the end in place.

 

[HOJ]

This is my method, probably same as @Ollie78 described (I allow 5mm extra in the rebate) for all my doors, the seal on the face of the rebate deadens door slamming, this is just a slot, and acts as the first line of defence the second seal for which I use the "proper" cutter, is the weather proofing, belt & braces, once its in the slot/groove its a pain to get out.

 

[Ollie78]

This is my method, probably same as @Ollie78 described (I allow 5mm extra in the rebate) for all my doors, the seal on the face of the rebate deadens door slamming, this is just a slot, and acts as the first line of defence the second seal for which I use the "proper" cutter, is the weather proofing, belt & braces, once its in the slot/groove its a pain to get out.

View attachment 142833

Pretty much what I do. But I use the proper cutter for both and only leave 3mm extra for the rebate. I like to make the "stop" about 5 or 6 mm more than you have shown there which sort of hides the seal a bit.

Ollie