Dominion Elliot Minor - How do I use it?

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Wabiloo

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Question for all of you who own and/or know how to use a Dominion Elliot Minor (I guess that's primarily @SammyQ ...?)

I have one of those that's been in the corner of my workshop for a while. I've been trying to understand how to make use of it correctly, safely and accurately. The original manual (provided by @SammyQ in a previous thread) is just about useless for that.

I have therefore a few questions I'm hoping someone will kindly help with...

1. There are 2 blots on the vertical central shaft (as per this photo).
The bottom one is clearly used to lock the "boom" at certain angles. It's a little fiddly but seems to work. The top one on the other hand, which can't be turned more than about 120 degrees from vertical (because of the bottom one being in the way) doesn't seem to do much. What is it for?

IMG_0391 Medium.jpeg


2. The base of the vertical shaft also has a tightening bolt, which prevents rotation of the main part of the machine. There are also regular holes in that plate, and a metal stick (right on the photo) that seems to fit in some of those holes, but I am uncertain what it's supposed to be used for...

IMG_0392 Medium.jpeg


3. Event with those various locks, I'm finding it very difficult to accurately set the boom for the radial arm saw at 90 degrees to the table. Each time I'm having to use a large carpenter square, and raise the table so that I can move the blade back and forth alongside it to try and get them parallel. There must be a simpler way... Any advice?

4. Same goes with mitering (45 deg angles). When I set the arm at 45 deg, it's almost at the end of the table. Is that really meant to be how it's done?

IMG_0393 Medium.jpeg


5. There's a metal bar at the end of the table saw table. With a thumb wheel on it. No clue what it is for...

IMG_0394 Medium.jpeg


6. It seems really difficult to remove the belt going from the motor to the arm saw. When I use the planer, I add the longer belt between the motor and the planer wheel. But obviously when it's turned on, the saw will also rotate, which seems a massively dangerous thing to do (as it's partly invisible under the guard, on the other side of the machine). Should I remove that small belt, or the blade itself, every time?

That's all I can think of for now.
Any advice on any of those points would be massively welcome!

Cheers,

Wabiloo
 
Gawd M'Lud, it's been years since I had had thon jobbie...

5. There's a metal bar at the end of the table saw table. With a thumb wheel on it. No clue what it is for...

That is a micro adjustable saw fence bar. Only trouble is, you'm missing da fence Mate! You locks the fence on the bar, happroximately right, then rotatae what you call a "thumb wheel" to finesse the fence position to within the proverbial gnat's todger of exact measurement. Incerdibly, I think I still have both fence bar and fence...somewhere. Will put out an A.P.B. to the shed elves.

6. It seems really difficult to remove the belt going from the motor to the arm saw. When I use the planer, I add the longer belt between the motor and the planer wheel. But obviously when it's turned on, the saw will also rotate, which seems a massively dangerous thing to do (as it's partly invisible under the guard, on the other side of the machine). Should I remove that small belt, or the blade itself, every time?
Yes, that's why I recycled mine through the scrap merchant's skip. It is all too easy to put your hand underneath where that blade rotates. I had been warned about it from older, more experienced users than me and I consider myself lucky to just have a superficial 'kiss' on the back of my hand. Just undo the belt.

1. There are 2 blots on the vertical central shaft
Blots...Bolts? Memory is very hazy, but I think you have at least one bolt in the wrong position. Irritatingly, I can't recall where they should be.

a metal stick (right on the photo) that seems to fit in some of those holes

ummmm....the metal dowel pin should be on a chain...it is for determining the angle of 'azimuth' of that frightening radial harm device, by placing in the 'correct' hole. Unfortunately, its accuracy is anything but correct - if you take my meaning!!

I think I still have the 'manual' - it should really be called a 'brochure' because it is thin on detail or construct. From memory again, one of the bolts in the central column is (incredibly!!) to allow the whole cast iron 'tub' base to rotate through 180⁰ to facilitate change from saw to planer, pivoting on the casting underneath the main tub. The top (radial harm saw) stays put....obviously, you have to undo/redo belts.

N.B. When doing this, the whole 400lbs avoirdupois becomes - rising crescendo - UNSTABLE!!

Again, I will rummage behind my pile (of similar relics) and see what I can unearth, or jar loose a memory.

HTH. Sam
 
P.S. Photo four, stonking great saw track off to the right? That wee bracket peeping coyly out between the red saw table and the saw transparent cover is for a two-way morticing table. The bits for same go into the end of the saw spindle. I still have mine and ten years ago, I said I would keep it for a dedicated router 'morticer'. Life has a habit of tripping you up; I found it several weeks ago, needing a full strip down and remedial work to knock the superficial rust off. I still plan to make - and use - that morticer....yeah, right.
 

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