Eric The Viking
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ondablade":4uk9srmd said:In my innocence i ran my 2.2kW Robland combo saw off a 13A socket. It should draw around 10A when running. i.e. well below the rating of the socket.
Despite this it was the plugs/sockets (it happened in more than one plug socket combination) that caused me some bother.
At one level all was OK - it blew the stock 13A fuse once or twice under sustained load, no doubt because i forced it too heavily. (typically in rip cuts i think it was) On the other hand it didn't pop the 16A fuse fitted in the control panel. Perfectly as it should be you might say.
More ominously though it occasionally stopped during start up - it'd pop the reset on the contactor (?) in the saw's own panel. During the initial phase of start up before releasing the button in run mode i think it was.
Eventually i figured out that this seemed to be the result of some sort of minor arcing inside the socket - there were burn marks on one of the plug pins. A new socket and plug solved the problem for short while i ran the machine before selling it after this.
It may to some degree have a been a vagary of the specific sockets i had, but it brings two points to mind:
1. Despite 10A being the nominal full load current, the short duration start up surge seemed well able to cause problems on a 13A socket - without blowing fuses.
2. It suggests that 2.2kW on a saw motor is getting a bit above the upper limit for a 13A socket - regardless of whatever wiring is used.
I'm wiring the shop now for my Hammer machines. The conclusion i've drawn from the experience is that it seems to be as important to build some slack into the sizing of the plus and sockets as it is in the rest of the circuitry - that electrical componentry maybe does not have a great deal of spare capacity...
It's one of the big advantages of the 16A and 32A socketry: no fuses in the plugs. Furthermore the round pins make a much better mechanical connection than the rectangular pins of the 13A series (which are actually pretty poor in comparison). It all works to stop the plugs heating up, which in turn stops the grub screws working loose through repeated hot/cold cycling, which reduces arcing, which makes them safer.
Since fuses typically go at twice their rated current (continuous), they can get pretty warm beforehand. I used to own a 3kW fan heater - the plug used to get too hot to touch. You will sometimes see sockets in older houses with scorching round the live socket, often in kitchens and bedrooms. It's heat conducted through the live pin, which is closest to the fuse, when that socket was either used for a kettle or a fan heater.
IIRC, the history of 'ring mains' goes back to a shortage of copper after WWII. Previously, with the 2A, 5A, 15A series, sockets were individual spurs wired back to the fuse box ("consumer unit") and separately fused. This is expensive in both copper and installation time, so the ring main was introduced as a cheaper alternative.
There are experts on here (and I'm not one(, but IIRC, breakers trip earlier than Fuses (the type C has a time delay specifically for motor surges etc.), so that a 20A breaker goes at that current, whereas a 20A fuse goes at 40A continuous. Fuses will thus tolerate surges more readily, but they warm up significantly (proportional to current squared), and if used near their rating for any significant length of time they also weaken (somewhat like lightbulb filaments), and blow at a lower-than rated current.
I think that's correct. Someone will be along in a min, if I'm wrong.