Dmt 450 runout and Chuck removal

[CHJ]

.....This was something that happened when i first got the chuck, as the scheppach has a long nose. However i got a mate to extend the collar at his metal works, and it is tight against the shoulder of the spindle.
.....

Normal practise is to either remove a small amount from the spindle nose or put a spacing washer behind the chuck to bring the chuck forward on the register.

How was the chuck flange extended and how accurately is it aligned with the chuck thread/bore?

 

[wcndave]

.....This was something that happened when i first got the chuck, as the scheppach has a long nose. However i got a mate to extend the collar at his metal works, and it is tight against the shoulder of the spindle.
.....

Normal practise is to either remove a small amount from the spindle nose or put a spacing washer behind the chuck to bring the chuck forward on the register.

How was the chuck flange extended and how accurately is it aligned with the chuck thread/bore?

Sorry about the delay replying, I have been travelling...

The inside was extended by a professional machinist on a large metal lathe. this just removed the last 6mm of threads, and looks perfect to me.

With regards to remounting, how does this work then with bowl reversing jaws? These would seem to imply it's expected to remount things.

For this project, I have made a jam chuck, which needs frequent remouting. I think I shall just have to try to find a different work "order" that removes the need to remount.

Thanks again

Dave

 

[CHJ]

With regards to remounting, how does this work then with bowl reversing jaws? These would seem to imply it's expected to remount things.

Although a Jam chuck is an accepted option if you want accurate location of a reversed item, as you have found they need remaking or at best redressing and truing up every time you re-mount and use.

Reversing Jaws, commonly called Cole Jaws, are accurately centred and easily adjustable for required diameter and clamping variations by means of button type and form selection. Even the mounting of wooden scrap 'buttons' that can be skimmed to suit oddball clamping needs.

A sample of them being put to normal use can be seen here.

And a shot of how to hold oddball shapes with home made clamping aids.

 

[wcndave]

Thanks.I've been away so sorry for late response.

I have seen a lot of videos where people face paste mount a block and hot glue gun their pieces.this would allow me to remove and work with chuck then remount. Thus also means I could use smaller pieces with less waste of my good stock. How safe is this method, considering I may be using a fairly high speed?

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[wcndave]

Face plate....not paste...

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[jpt]

providing you do it properly very safe my guide to using them is here http://www.woodturned.co.uk/html/glue_chuck.html

john

 

[CHJ]

Thanks.I've been away so sorry for late response.

I have seen a lot of videos where people face paste mount a block and hot glue gun their pieces.this would allow me to remove and work with chuck then remount. Thus also means I could use smaller pieces with less waste of my good stock. How safe is this method, considering I may be using a fairly high speed?

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Sawn wood to sawn wood, hot glue will easily hold a 250mm blank on a 75mm joint.

Sample WIP showing use

Just make sure the glue is really hot and flowing very freely.

 

[wcndave]

Probably need to get a decent glue gun. My dremel "non drip" drips constantly, and the glue comes our rather slowly, and tends to be set before i can finish what i am doing.

it's ok for sticking things to paper with the kids...

sounds like you also think sawn to sawn is better than smooth, although there was a great video i saw about the myth of glue needing "rough" to hold. It stated that with two smooth pieces they stick together naturally...

i will be table sawing it anyway, so it will be somewhere in the middle perhaps.

thanks again, gonna look at all the vids now!

 

[CHJ]

I had a cheap gun that gave up the ghost by leaking all over the place, the BOSCH - PKP 18E I bought as a replacement has been in use now for several years and does everything I ask of it.
Hot Glue does indeed hold smooth finished items well, I just prefer to use wood straight off the bandsaw or at best straight from the thicknesser and wood to wood rather than wood to metal for heavier items.

 

[wcndave]

The glue gun method worked really well,a definite asset to have in one's arsenal.

The thing with the jam Chuck is that I am drilling a hole in the piece, slipping over the jam chuck, turning the outside, then remove jam chuck and turn other pieces. Then when I have glued them together I put back over the end of the chuck and turn or sand them flush. When I put the piece back on its no longer symmetrical.

I will try the idea of faceplate gluing the other pieces so I can keep the jam in the chuck sui it should be the same when I put it back on again.

Thanks again, Dave

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