DIY Japaning

[Lord Nibbo]

All done in the Aga

Stanley No 5, No 6 and No 7

Started with the No5 but I think it could be better so I might start again.
Second one to be cooked was the No 6 It came out near perfect or definitely better than the No 5.
Last one out of the oven the No 7. Perfection Eat your heart out Mr Stanley.

A big thank you go out to an article I googled by Todd Hughes & Sean Cullen on how to do it. Plus several other sites that I can't remember.

 

[Bainzy]

Awesome 8)

 

[Colin C]

Very nice LN but is the a chance of a link to the site please

 

[tiler99]

Very nice LN but is the a chance of a link to the site please

http://www.woodcentral.com/cgi-bin/read ... _117.shtml

 

[Colin C]

Very nice LN but is the a chance of a link to the site please

http://www.woodcentral.com/cgi-bin/read ... _117.shtml

Most kind young sir

 

[Smudger]

Did you make your own Japanning, or buy it in?

 

[mahking51]

LN
All ingredients seem readily available except the ashphaltm. Where did you get yours please?
Well done for trying this arcane art!
Martin

 

[Vormulac]

Blimey, this black art of fettling is getting blacker and blacker by the minute!

Outstanding work yer Lordship!

V.

 

[Lord Nibbo]

Did you make your own Japanning, or buy it in?

I made it, I looked on google for a supplier of asphaltum and found plenty that were for paint tints but you need dry powdered.

Asphaltum Also known as gilsonite and asphalt. Sometimes used as a substitute for carbon as a fuel. A black bituminous substance, best described as powdered tar.


Here is another recipes I found on the internet


Take of asphaltum, 2 lbs.; boiled linseed oil, 1/2 pint; spirits of turpentine, 1 gallon; mix the two first in an iron pot, boil slowly until the asphaltum is melted, then take it some distance from the fire, cool a little, and add the turpentine (avoiding ignition) before it cools too much, and it is finished.

I also found another recipe but cant find it now which would of involved other extra ingredients and quantities so huge I would have needed a forty gallon drum to mix it.

Here are some of the links I found
http://www.witchcraftshop.co.uk/store/i ... CatID=2009
http://www.intaglioprintmaker.com/shop/ ... =64&c2=329
http://www.structural-engineering.fsnet.co.uk/loads.htm

But I got 500grm from my local chemists of all places who I get my oxalic acid crystals from, He had to order it though.

But there are plenty of links to it in the USA especially under the name gilsonite.

 

[Smudger]

Thanks - I love the advice 'avoid ignition'!

 

[tnimble]

Dear Lord,

I'm about done de-rusting my no 8 and starting on redoing the japanning . Any thoughts on what made the difference between the good japanning no 5 and a perfect japanning on the no 7?

 

[tnimble]

I found this free ebook

Handbook on Japanning, for ironware, tinware, wood, etc. With sections on tin-plating and galvanizing. 2nd Edition, by William N. Brown 1913

It contains various recipes for japanning including the recipe for the asphaltum japanning. But also recipes for other blacks, red, blue, etc.

 

[DomValente]

That's a bit of luck I've got an Aga shop next door to my workshop

Dom

 

[woden]

They look fantastic, Lord Nibbo. I especially like the way you've not japanned the top edge of the sides - gives the planes a very neat and 'Cliftonesque' look.

But for me, I'm just too lazy to bother getting the ingredients to mix up my own japanning so is there somewhere that sells ready made pots of the stuff? What about Lie Nielsen, Veritas or even modern day Stanley, I wonder would they send you a tin of the stuff they use if you asked? But then aren't these modern coatings a bit fancy with ingredients like epoxy and stuff? Hmm... :?

 

[tnimble]

Jappaning is just a specific type of laquar which was used on cars, roofs, paintings and planes. When I compare the laquar on my 1920ies no 8 and modern no 4 its a bit different. The old plane is more shiny and feels like an enemal or chromed surface. The no 8 also has a very slight road like of smell to it after I did the first de-rusting when some of the japanning came loose. When I completely stripped the finish of my no 4 it smelled more like cellulose.

So I think at least modern Stanley uses a modern laquar more the same used on modern cars. Just like cars had japanning until about the 1940ies.

I've got all the ingredients. They are not hard to get by. I found them right at the arts and craft store I always go. When I asked for the ingredients they asked me if I was going to make Japanese laquar.

The asphaltum is used in etching techniques to create shadows, turpentine and boil lineoil use frequently used to create oil and a few other art paints.

 

[Lord Nibbo]

Dear Lord,

I'm about done de-rusting my no 8 and starting on redoing the japanning . Any thoughts on what made the difference between the good japanning no 5 and a perfect japanning on the no 7?

I suppose the no 5 might be less perfect edges, Woden noticed I the no6 and 7 had clean edges to the cheeks, these two originally had clean edges so I used emery cloth on them after doing the japaning after the first coat and kept it clean when I did a second coat. The no 5 had the japaning all the way up to the cheek faces and just don't look as good. As to why the no 7 is best I just don't really know for sure, but maybe because it was bigger I did start with the aga turned up higher and the temptation to have a peek to see how it was doing meant I was letting the temperature drop every time I opened the door :lol:

One thing I have noticed though the new japaning (mine) is not as hard as the old original japaning on other planes I have, maybe I need the apply it a little thicker or mix it thicker? Or maybe over time it may become as hard or should I let them cook longer? all questions for more testing I think. :lol:

 

[tnimble]

One thing I have noticed though the new japaning (mine) is not as hard as the old original japaning on other planes I have, maybe I need the apply it a little thicker or mix it thicker? Or maybe over time it may become as hard or should I let them cook longer? all questions for more testing I think. :lol:

The book a few post back I found sates applying multiple coats with a bake after each layer and finally a last final bake.

Also the article about japanning by Todd Hughes & Sean Cullen states using a cold mix recipe because he could not get the hot mix right. His explenation for the failure of the hot mix is due to asphaltum powder is stead of chunks. The arts and crafts store I went to advice a hot mix with the powder.

"Melt in to order of the asphaltum, boiled line oil. Together these materials form a viscid mass. This mass while being still warm should be stirred while little by little the turpentine is added."

They also recommend using a resin holding line oil and use de-waxed turpentine.

This is about the same as the book states as products and for mixing.