Disastrous Day!

[kirkpoore1]

Thanks Kirk and Dick for your replies, glad you think welding repairs are possible. No, as you say, no way could the cutter block be welded.
My next problem is removing the cutter block from the mounts and bearings. I saw a post somewhere last year by someone who had done a fantastic job on restoring their BOAS, which encouraged me to have a go at mine, but removing the cutter block, involved drifting it off the bearings as I recall, and heating the block and/or bearings in the oven to re-assemble. This seemed too daunting to me, and I didn't go that far. I haven't been able to find the site again.
Now I just have to get on with it, but so far my circlip pliers have not been man enough to get the circlip off, so I better get some new pliers. Should I be replacing the bearings as a matter of course? they seem to be ok, and I don't really want to if it's not necessary. Any advice will be most welcome.

You should just replace the bearings. You don't know how old they are, they might be damaged during removal, and, really, bearings are pretty cheap compared to that machine. What are you going to do for a replacement cutterhead? Try to find another machine to cannibalize, or buy a new one? The companies that make replacement insert cutterheads will machine them to size. They might even put bearings on for you. Or an electric motor shop can put them on for you. When I rebuilt my thicknesser, I had a motor shop do the cutterhead/motor bearings because it was a direct drive machine and you had to pull the motor windings to get to one of the bearings.

As far as the circlip pliers, think of it as an opportunity to buy more tools.

Kirk

 

[jo-53]

Have just found the post I mentioned, but having tried, cannot copy it to this post so am typing it in:- Post subject " Restoration steps, OWWM and UK knowledge base"
I have now spotted a couple of machines on e-bay and maybe cannibalizing them would be a better choice? The info/advice on removing the cutterhead from the bearings made it seem more likely I will end up with a pile of bits I can't put back together again and more expense.
What would be another name for an electric motor shop?

Jo

 

[PMK54]

Try searching for common tasks such as: 'electric motor rewind', 'commutator grinding', 'brush replacement', 'induction motor capacitor replacement' etc

 

[beech1948]

Bearing removal and replacement.

The old bearing can just be cut away. A Dremel with a cutting blade will do it fine. Just note the name/type/size and bearing number prior to cutting it up.

It is possible to use a bearing extractor and pull it off if you have one or hire one.

The new bearings can be replaced without a press but if you access to one then use it. Without the best process is:-
1) Freeze the shaft in your freezer for 24 hrs
2) create a wooden piece with a hole close to the shaft thickness. Once just on this goes over the bearing and can be used to push it down or have a hammer beat on the wood
3) Plug in an incandescent light bulb on a long lead and make a rest for it, place the bearing directly on the light bulb to heat it up for about 20 minutes then wearing gloves pick it up and start to insert onto the shaft...use wooden jig to push and hammer on until it fits....be quite quick and don't hang around.

Alan

 

[tool613]

What Alan said ,bearing in that machine you can do yourself.

Here is a great rebuilted thread that will show you what Alan is taking about. The BAO/S have cuter heads that are easy to change an the whole machine is a pleasureful to work on.

wadkin-planers-thicknessers-t15315.html


jack

 

[kirkpoore1]

Bearing removal and replacement.

The old bearing can just be cut away. A Dremel with a cutting blade will do it fine. Just note the name/type/size and bearing number prior to cutting it up.

It is possible to use a bearing extractor and pull it off if you have one or hire one.

The new bearings can be replaced without a press but if you access to one then use it. Without the best process is:-
1) Freeze the shaft in your freezer for 24 hrs
2) create a wooden piece with a hole close to the shaft thickness. Once just on this goes over the bearing and can be used to push it down or have a hammer beat on the wood
3) Plug in an incandescent light bulb on a long lead and make a rest for it, place the bearing directly on the light bulb to heat it up for about 20 minutes then wearing gloves pick it up and start to insert onto the shaft...use wooden jig to push and hammer on until it fits....be quite quick and don't hang around.

Alan

To elaborate on Alan's method:

If possible, use a gear puller to remove the old bearing:

This will preserve not only the markings, but the sizes. You'll want to measure the bore, outside diameter, thickness, and whether the bearings have any extended races. In rare cases, oddball bearings have marking that are hard to cross-reference to a known size, or have an non-metric bore size or thickness. If you can't get the arms of the puller behind the bearing, you may be able to use a bearing splitter:

There are how-to videos on the internet.
(Note: I'm not sure whether Alan is referring to the top or bottom item when he says bearing extractor. Different terminology and all that.) Personally, I've never had to cut off a bearing. Which is not to say that swearing hasn't been involved with the other tools. Also, a bearing splitter is really handy for removing pulleys without damage, where a two- or three-arm puller would destroy them.

The freeze-and-heat method works really well for installing bearings. When you are pressing the new bearing on the shaft, make sure the piece of wood or pipe only rests on the inner race of the bearing. This will prevent damage to the seal or shield of the bearing. I've found that one minute on the light bulb and half an hour in the freezer has been adequate for this to work. The freezer time could of course be longer for larger parts.

Kirk

 

[jo-53]

Thanks for your continuing advice.
The person I was relying on for a 2nd hand cutter block has now found that it, and other spares, had been skipped in a christmas clear out! So I have now decided to cannibalize a non- runner off e-bay. Although It's more expensive at least I shouldn't need the ci welding.
The excellent restoration posts nearly tempted me to go for a bigger beast, such as a16/18x9, but I would then have to head off into the unknown (to me) world of phase converters or inverters.
With help I have managed to get the cutterhead off the spindle. It was remarkably easy using the gear pullers as illustrated, given that I had tried hitting it with a large lump of wood and a club hammer to no effect. It just shows what the right tool can do. The interesting part will be next week trying to put it back together.

Jo

 

[beech1948]

Hi,

I was in a real hurry when I posted on ways to replace bearings so many thanks to those who added in all the essential extra information. I'm really concerned that this machine does not get scrapped as they need to be repaired wherever possible. Good to see you doing this.

The puller approach is best for bearing removal. You can buy one or make one. If you have to make one you will often end up with the best solution because getting the size right can be a nightmare. I have one made from some steel plates and M14 screw thread. Grinding down the thickness of the plates was done with an angle grinder so that they could fit behind the bearing. A screw thread which acted on the top of the shaft provides the pressure to haul the bearing off.

Bearings are sensitive to where the force is applied to the bearing both getting them off a shaft and putting them back on. You need to always apply the force to the bearing race nearest to the shaft and to apply the force equally all round the race. Unequal pressure will distort the bearing.

So best way to apply pressure is to use either a wooden jig fitted very close to the shaft or to use a piece of pipe which fits over the shaft, quite closely, and which will rest on the bearing race with little or no movement off the race. You can then push or even hammer the bearing into place.

I use a piece of old copper plumbing pipe that has 3/16 thick walls, or plastic pipe. You often have to try to find something that fits and is the right size.

Good luck.
Al