Dewalt DW625e armature kit advice

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Steve Blackdog

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I've ordered a new armature replacement kit for my ageing router. Before it arrives I wonder if anyone has any useful advice.

All the best.

Steve
 
Yep, I have new brushes and new bearings. I've started taking the router apart. So far I have only snapped two pieces that I will need to replace ;)
 
Help. I've taken all the screws out. The instructions say to tap the armature through the top bearing. I've been tapping away like a woodpecker and there is no sign of any movement whatsoever.

I've given up for the night and soaked the bearing in wd40 in case it is seized up.

Am I doing something wrong?

All help much valued.

Cheers

Steve
 
Is this to take it out or put the new one in?

If the former, it's probably very tight and you might need a puller or a press. If it's the new one, you might try putting the armature in a plastic bag in the freezer (get most of the air out to avoid condensation) and the bearing in the oven (say around 50-75deg C).

I'm surprised it didn't come with bearings. They should be standard sizes and thus not all that expensive. I'd do both together.
 
Eric The Viking":299z5o3o said:
Is this to take it out or put the new one in?

If the former, it's probably very tight and you might need a puller or a press. If it's the new one, you might try putting the armature in a plastic bag in the freezer (get most of the air out to avoid condensation) and the bearing in the oven (say around 50-75deg C).

I'm surprised it didn't come with bearings. They should be standard sizes and thus not all that expensive. I'd do both together.

Hi eric the Viking

It is the old one I am having trouble with. I have new bearings to replace the old ones. How does a puller work?

Steve
 
Sorry if I'm being dumb: is this to get the bearing out of the end casing? I can't see why you need to take it off the armature unless it's firmly stuck in the casing. They're usually not a very tight fit at all - the casing's plastic, usually, so there's nothing to grip the bearing shell.

I'm a bit puzzled as to why it's stuck. Not much help, I know...
 
That's helpful. It must be that
A) the bearing is stuck on the armature - hence I can't separate the top yellow half of the body from the bottom alloy half; or

B) there is something other than the fact the bearing is attached to the armature that is holding the two halves of the body together.

In either case, I can't get anything to move. I am assuming you HAVE TO tap/push the armature through the bearing to open the case. Is that right?

Thanks

Steve
 
Progress. I spoke to Miles Machine Tools - who were incredibly helpful.

The bearing had seized onto the armature. So very gentle constant pressure from a two leg bearing puller and the two separated just fine.

I'm now fighting to get the bottom locking nut off. I've soaked it with wd40 and had a go at heating it with a hair drier. I'll try it again tomorrow night.

Any tips for getting it off? Dewalt service centres have a special tool. Does anyone have any thoughts on how to make one?
 
Steve Blackdog":1bko88de said:
...

I'm now fighting to get the bottom locking nut off. I've soaked it with wd40 and had a go at heating it with a hair drier. I'll try it again tomorrow night.

Any tips for getting it off? Dewalt service centres have a special tool. Does anyone have any thoughts on how to make one?

1. WD-40 isn't very good as a penetrating oil. I don't know what brands you have available, but an auto parts store will have something better.

2. Are you sure it's not a left handed thread?


Just checking...

Kirk
 
Sorted!
Rh thread.
Chissel and hammer with armature in a vice.

Now can I remember how it all goes back together??!
 
Well done!

I didn't comment on the locknut, as mine looks different from all the diagrams on Miles' site (it is a recent T11), and anyway I didn't want to disassemble it just to find out how! I assume it holds the shaft in the main bearing, but does it also receives the pin on the end of the pushbutton (to lock the shaft for cutter change), or is that part of the shaft itself?.

If it takes the pin, I think it's fairly good steel, but if you had to clout it to free it off, I'd check it carefully for balance/concentricity before you reassemble it, just in case. It's wide and probably reasonably heavy, so it may be better to get a replacement than risk it being out of balance. It's listed as roughly £5.50, and it would be infuriating to reassemble it then find it vibrated excessively.

Don't forget the 'warm bearings--cold armature' trick if it's an interference fit. To prevent condensation use a plastic bag in the freezer and squeeze most of the air out, then put the assembled pair quickly into a fresh plastic bag and leave them to equalise to room temp before proceeding.

I have a padded camera bag: after a winter trip, I take the card out whilst in the cold, and don't open the bag until it's been in the house for a couple of hours.

HTH,

E.
 

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