DeWalt DW1501 RAS table dimensions

[Deco-Doctor]

Hi all

My first post to this forum. I need some advice on fitting a new MDF table to my newly aquired DW1501. I don't see any dimensions for the table size and fence in the manual and I don't have the original, I have tried a Google, but I can't find any details. Can someone post a link to a drawing of table dimensions.

I will mostly use the saw for cross cutting so I want to set the cross cut fence to get the optimum width, I know this is dependant on the maximum desired depth of cut.

Thanks

Martin

 

[Scrit]

Actually, you need to set the cross cut fence so that the blade retracts completely behind it when in the "home" position. Allowing even a small part of the blade to overhang the fence is dangerous as in inadvertent movement of hand or timber beneath the guard whilst the saw is running or running down could result in an accident

Scrit

 

[Newbie_Neil]

Hi Martin

Welcome to the forum.

Cheers
Neil

 

[DomValente]

Welcome Martin

Take heed of Scrit, he couldn't be more right, I know

 

[Deco-Doctor]

Actually, you need to set the cross cut fence so that the blade retracts completely behind it when in the "home" position. Allowing even a small part of the blade to overhang the fence is dangerous as in inadvertent movement of hand or timber beneath the guard whilst the saw is running or running down could result in an accident

Scrit

Ahh yes, good advice. I will have to make some measurements as I can't find original drawings for the table and fence spacers anywhere.

Thanks for the welcome guys.

Martin

 

[labertouchemenshed]

we are small men,s shed rural victoria australia that have been donated one of these radial arm saws and also require the actual dimensions for the table pieces. any one help please.

 

[misterfish]

As far as I am aware the 1501 is the same as the 1251 but with s slightly longer arm (15 inches as opposed to 12.5 inches). I think the original table was the same size on both.

If you search the older posts ( and this one was started back many moons ago!) you should find useful info about these saws. Have a look at (I think) the second chapter in www.drosera.f2s.com/RAS/DeWalt_Powershop_Handbook.pdf that I scanned as it explains the table configuration of these saws.

You don't have to have an identical table to the original - I made a perfectly usable replacement for my 1251 for low cost which works well. Let me know if you want details of that - I can measure and photograph what I have if you want.

You'll have to reply to this thread as you won't be able to send PMs untilyou have a few posts.

Misterfish

 

[Zeddedhed]

When I owned one of these a few years back everyone suggested I check out a resource by a guy called Mr Sawdust.
He wrote a book considered by some to be the definitive word on using these particular saws and the construction of a proper table for them.

I must confess that whilst I looked at his writings I ended up just thrashing together an MDF base and fence and getting on with life.

The guy I sold the saw to said he was going to make one but I've no idea if he did.

I did communicate with a few owners who had made his table and they reckon it was the pups nuts.

Link here.... http://mrsawdust.com

 

[Glynne]

There was a connected thread some time ago and if you look at page 2 you can see my table and set up which also includes dust extraction which i find is a must with a RAS.

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/setting-up-ras-t69868-15.html?hilit=dewalt

 

[deema]

Not sure of the official size, however when I put a new top on my Wadkin I placed a pencil at the very extremity of the saw guard and drew an arc by swinging the arm around. The table top as a minimum must be larger than the arc. As already stated the fence must be in front of the blade with the saw parked.

 

[labertouchemenshed]

have looked at all the info supplied above but still there is no dimensions provided anywhere to make the table and fens bit pieces , so can any body help?

 

[misterfish]

As a direct answer to your question , I've never seenthe dimensions of the original table written down anywhere. If somebody stillhad the original table then they might be able to measure it for you but as the RAS you have is an older machine then you may well not get the info.

Why do you need the details of the original table? By the nature of the machine it gets cut and inevitably has to be replaced. As I offered in my earlier reply I'm quite happy to measure and photograph the replacement table parts I have on my machine which work perfectly well and safely. Just let me know if you're interested.

Misterfish

 

[Glynne]

As per Misterfish, if anyone knows the original dimensions of the supplied saw they would have posted by now. Instead you have several suggestions from people who actually use a RAS (and a couple of pictures from me) so I can't really understand why you just don't build your own to fit your workshop and take it from there? All said and done, most people wil build a set up to suit themselves - if you're cutting long and wide stock you'll have a long and wide table or, like me who makes smaller items, a short table but wide enough to take the maximum saw travel. Am I missing something here?

 

[labertouchemenshed]

Misterfish
if you could supply the info as mentioned in your post it would be gratefully appreciated
regards
your friends downunder

 

[misterfish]

OK. I'll go and measure and photograph what I've found works for me and I'm sure that you'll be able tomake your own version without too much hassle.

I'll get back with the info later.

Misterfish

 

[misterfish]

My table is made from an offcut of kitchen worktop and is about 107 x 47.5cm. It came from the remaindered offcut box at a local DIY superstore and cost only a few pounds.

The back of the worktop has been removed leaving a 5cm wide strip which allows me to move the fence to two positions. In the front position it allows the fence to allow the blade to go well back to be able to cut thicker material (as the blade has to be behind the material to be cut and against the fence. In the back position it can only be used for thinner material.
This also affects the width of the material that can be cut - on my 1251 I can cut 33cm width thick material o3 38cm thick narrow material. On your 1501 you should be able to cut 38cm and 43cm wide material.

The front (fixed) part if the table is fixed to the metal base frame of the RAS with countersunk nuts and bolts and the back three components are 'loose' and held in place with the turn screws at the back of the saw frame.

My fence is a piece of pine of cross section 2cm x 7.5cm. The rear piece is 15cm wide.

These pictures show my set up:-

The fence in the forward position for thick material

The fence in the back position for thin material

The components of the table

I also made a support frame and unit out of construction timber to support the saw.

Hope this is of help.Ask if you want any more info.

Misterfish

 

[Arnold9801]

:arrow: Many Thanks for your replies and the pics by Mr Fish they really help. I guess heat adapting some tube will have to be made for linking the dust port. Such a silly design to not make it a circular shape instead of it being oval because it makes this union to a round pipe/tube so awkward.

Thanks again,

Regards

Arnold

 

[Arnold9801]

My table is made from an offcut of kitchen worktop and is about 107 x 47.5cm. It came from the remaindered offcut box at a local DIY superstore and cost only a few pounds.

The back of the worktop has been removed leaving a 5cm wide strip which allows me to move the fence to two positions. In the front position it allows the fence to allow the blade to go well back to be able to cut thicker material (as the blade has to be behind the material to be cut and against the fence. In the back position it can only be used for thinner material.
This also affects the width of the material that can be cut - on my 1251 I can cut 33cm width thick material o3 38cm thick narrow material. On your 1501 you should be able to cut 38cm and 43cm wide material.

The front (fixed) part if the table is fixed to the metal base frame of the RAS with countersunk nuts and bolts and the back three components are 'loose' and held in place with the turn screws at the back of the saw frame.

My fence is a piece of pine of cross section 2cm x 7.5cm. The rear piece is 15cm wide.

These pictures show my set up:-

The fence in the forward position for thick material

The fence in the back position for thin material

The components of the table

I also made a support frame and unit out of construction timber to support the saw.

Hope this is of help.Ask if you want any more info.

Misterfish

I see your riding knife is not in place. I only acquired my ras on Saturday and can see with the apparatus that covers the blade it’s impossible to see where’s the blade engages with the wood. I have only bought it for trenching as I have a scheppach saw bench for ripping.

 

[julianf]

misterfish,

(briefly off the specific topic, but still RAS...)

Looking at your photos, it looks like you only use the saw for 90 degree cross cuts?

I have a 1251, which i kind of have a love/hate relationship with. I dont have a table saw, so i use mind for ripping also, which is 'possible' but not ideal.

Looking at yours, im guessing you must have a table saw for ripping, and im wondering why anyone would really keep a RAS with a table saw? I guess if space was not limited, it would be easier than using a sled, but beyond that, it seems that the table saw is easier in every respect...

...but it seems you must have both, hence my question!

 

[Sideways]

misterfish,

(briefly off the specific topic, but still RAS...)

Looking at your photos, it looks like you only use the saw for 90 degree cross cuts?

I have a 1251, which i kind of have a love/hate relationship with. I dont have a table saw, so i use mind for ripping also, which is 'possible' but not ideal.

Looking at yours, im guessing you must have a table saw for ripping, and im wondering why anyone would really keep a RAS with a table saw? I guess if space was not limited, it would be easier than using a sled, but beyond that, it seems that the table saw is easier in every respect...

...but it seems you must have both, hence my question!

If you need to cross cut long stock a RAS or mitre saw is way easier than manhandling the work through a table saw. I found it interesting that you feel these don't go together.