Dealing with small cracks/holes? And best finishes?

BigDougal · 31 May 2017

Hi

I often find small cracks/splits/defects on my wood and I'm wondering if anyone can give some ideas on how best to deal with them? I've included some photos of an elm bowl that I'm working on that has a few splits around a pith (inside) and a tiny hole on the out.

Also, I'd be interested to hear what your favored finish would be on a bowl like this. I started off using Danish oil, which I've used on some furniture (which was perfect for that job) but I'm not totally happy with the end finish on bowls. I got Briwax a while ago and went a bit mad putting it on everything I made. Although it looks nice it a bit sticky and not very durable. I want to use the bowl for food/crisps etc so some that can handle washing might be good.

Any advice would be much appreciated.

CHJ · 31 May 2017

Use Thin CA glue and sanding dust to fill small cracks and voids, also to harden up soft spots,

Note:- most dusts look darker when used with glue, repairs often look more natural when of Darker contrast to the base wood as they look like natural Knots or defects..

If you want to use that Bowl for dry food such as Crisps or Nuts I personally would recommend using a Hard Wax Oil. two or three coats until you have an overall even finish.
Clean with damp cloth.

For Bowls used for salads etc, you need to use Beech or Sycamore and apply a Food Safe Oil (Liquid Paraffin BP) preferably a light grade that will soak in the wood easier.
Clean with a swill in cold water or damp cloth, never use washing up detergent, it will remove the oil.

Beech wood and the like are naturally food safe without protection but a light oil makes them a little water repelant, any stains from such as Beetroot will fade over time.

Beau · 1 Jun 2017

For non structural filing of small cracks and holes I like shellac sticks. You melt them into the marks with a soldering iron and you can clean up almost straight away. I generally prefer at least one shade darker than you think as for some reason a darker fault seem less noticeable to the eye IMO

Like these http://www.axminster.co.uk/liberon-shel ... cks-810471

Andrewf · 1 Jun 2017

I normally just leave small holes etc. Have never had any success with the CA and sawdust routine. Occasionally use epoxy.

hawkeyefxr · 1 Jun 2017

First off they are some nice bowls you have there. As CHJ says thin CA let it go off then some more on top till you can see liquid at the top of the crack, then let it cure over night.
If you have really big cracks or holes i have mixed brass powder with two part epoxy but first mix it in with the thicker part of the epoxy first, when you have the right quantity mix in the hardener and fill your large crack of hole. It's best do this near the end of the job if possible that way you will retain the brass finish. You can kid people that there is a streak of gold in the wood lol. Leave overnight again to fully cure.

A work of warning, i used thin CA and it took a lot of it, i found out that my crack went right through the wood. The CA 'leaked' out and into my chuck which in turn glued that up. I had to strip it down clean out all the CA and reassemble it.

jurriaan · 1 Jun 2017

I generally leave them - you're making things out of wood, not clay - it's something to talk about with potential customers.

Only if there's a crack in a space that's critical during drying, meaning it has the potental to really grow and ruin a piece, will I use glue or epoxy.