Deadish Compressor

[SimonStevensCanes]

I'm not sure if this is the right place, but none of the other forums seemed appropriate, but ofc feel free to move it as appropriate.

I turned on my compressor and it seemed to "limp to life" rather than straight away banging away like the noisy little *** it is. After 1-2 seconds of very slow/strained operation I turned it off, maybe a little late because I could smell something electrical. The fuse was blown and now when I turn it back on it just buzzes at me (no movement noises like before). It hasn't been drained in far too long, and it had never occurred to me () to check the oil, however the oil level shows in the middle of the red dot, so it looks like that is ok, but maybe it needs changing?

I haven't the faintest where to start trouble shooting this, so any tips, or links to articles/videos would be much appreciated.

 

[rocore]

Which model is it please?

 

[Sideways]

It's almost certain to be an induction motor. These draw a very high peak current while they are speeding up. If the motor wasn't able to come up to speed quickly for whatever reason, it would carry on pulling that surge current for longer than it ought to and that will heat it up.
Startup surge can easily be 5x normal load current and but should typically be over in 20 cycles / 0.4 sec. If you don't have a proper starter fitted and the thermal overload correctly set, then the windings of the motor are at risk.

As to why it didn't accelerate properly. Could be something mechanical. Could be a failed / failing capacitor. These are cheap to replace if you haven't cooked the windings.

 

[SimonStevensCanes]

Which model is it please?

Hyundai HY3050V

 

[rocore]

ok, the long pipe that goes from the piston heads to the tank, the end of the pipe has a brass looking fitting where it goes into the tank. Inside that fitting is a spring and a little polyurethane type plug.

Empty the tank entirely then undo the nut on the end of the fitting, take out the plug and spring, if there is rubbish in there it stops the plug from moving. When that happens the pressure in the tank backs up in to the pipe to the head which means the piston has back pressure and wont start, it often is enough pressure to stop it from starting which can burn out the motor. Clean off the plug, makesure the fitting is clean and doesnt have any rubbish,swarf etc in there and reasseble.

if its not this it could be capacitor.

Update.... in the manual the fitting you need to remove the nut from is part 60.
https://power-spares.co.uk/air-compressors/direct-drive-air-compressors/hy3050v-spare-parts/

 

[rocore]

Let us know how it goes.

 

[HOJ]

Probably not relative to your situation, I have a SIP 50 liter compressor that we use on site, really struggles to get started when on an extension lead, but plugged straight into a 13 Amp socket it fires up every time, so we now have longer airlines.

 

[Spectric]

the end of the pipe has a brass looking fitting where it goes into the tank. Inside that fitting is a spring and a little polyurethane type plug.

That sounds like a one way valve so that the compressor is not starting under load if the tank is not empty and could be a problem but also not draining condensate from the tank can lead to failure, a little bit of maintenance can keep things running.

 

[TRITON]

How old is this compressor ? As you know they rust internally, then explode.

Many old ones are just a time bomb waiting to go off, and you really don't want to be anywhere near one when it does.

 

[bourbon]

How old is this compressor ? As you know they rust internally, then explode.

Many old ones are just a time bomb waiting to go off, and you really don't want to be anywhere near one when it does.

That is pure scaremongering. In the OP's case, the unloader valve has gone. Easy enough to source a replacement.

 

[Ozi]

How old is this compressor ? As you know they rust internally, then explode.

Many old ones are just a time bomb waiting to go off, and you really don't want to be anywhere near one when it does.

Obviously they could explode but it is very unlikely, I have inspected some really badly neglected machines, rusted to hell they tend to pin hole then refuse to make pressure. Good practice even if you do nothing else is to check the safety valve is free

 

[Spectric]

That is pure scaremongering.

I think when it comes to a pressurised vessel that can store a large amount of energy that making people realise the consequences of a failed receiver due to corrosion is not a bad thing. Ok I accept this is not industrial and will be below 250 Bar / litre but compressed air is dangerous and if you do look at an industrial compressor you will see inspection access points on the receiver for the purpose of inspection to comply with PSSR .

As an example this is why we test plumbing and heating pipework with water and not compressed air .

 

[Superduner]

Another vote for the capacitor

 

[Crazy Dave]

DO NOT allow moisture to accumulate in the tank as this will corrode the inside of
the tank and affect the pressure rating of the tank.

WARNING
Service and maintenance must be performed by an authorised agent.
DO NOT tamper with, or attempt to adjust the pressure switch or safety valve.
Before moving or carrying out any maintenance on the compressor, make sure that
the ignition switch is OFF and the air tank pressure has been vented and the
compressor allowed to cool down for a period of time.

You should drain the tank at the end of each day.
Place a suitable container capable of holding water, underneath the compressor.
With compressed air in the tank, slowly turn the drain knob to the open position.
The water in the tank will drain out.
8.3 Once the water has drained, turn the drain knob to the closed position.
8.4 Draining the tank reduces the risk of corrosion inside the tank.
8.5 The air filter is designed to reduce noise and help prevent particulates in the air from
entering and damaging the air compressor.
8.6 After being used for a period of time, the air filter will become clogged.
This will reduce the air intake capabilities of the compressor, reducing performance.
Therefore, the air filter must be cleaned or replaced regularly.
8.7 Open the cover on the air filter and remove the filter element.
8.8 Inspect the filter element and if damaged or worn, replace immediately.
8.9 Blow the dirt from the air filter from the inside out.
You can use a low pressure airline to do this.
8.10 Reinstall the air filter.
8.11 A small leak in any hose or connection will reduce the air compressors performance.
8.12 To test for leaks, spray a small amount of soapy water on the area suspected of
leaking.
If soap bubbles appear, replace the broken part.
8.13 Clean the compressor with a soft brush or moist cloth.
8.14 DO NOT use a pressure washer or hose pipe as water can penetrate the motor
and cause failure that will not be covered by the warranty.
8.15 DO NOT use solvent based cleaning products, these could damage parts.
8.16 Turn off the power and wrap the power cord around the compressor.
8.17 Pull the relief valve and release all the pressure from the air tank.
8.18 Clean the air compressor to remove all dirt and dust.
8.19 Cover the air compressor with a cover to protect the unit from dust and moisture.
8.20 DO NOT stack or store other items on top of or around the air compressor.

https://manuall.co.uk/hyundai-hy3050v-compressor/

 

[bourbon]

DO NOT allow moisture to accumulate in the tank as this will corrode the inside of
the tank and affect the pressure rating of the tank.

WARNING
Service and maintenance must be performed by an authorised agent.
DO NOT tamper with, or attempt to adjust the pressure switch or safety valve.
Before moving or carrying out any maintenance on the compressor, make sure that
the ignition switch is OFF and the air tank pressure has been vented and the
compressor allowed to cool down for a period of time.

You should drain the tank at the end of each day.
Place a suitable container capable of holding water, underneath the compressor.
With compressed air in the tank, slowly turn the drain knob to the open position.
The water in the tank will drain out.
8.3 Once the water has drained, turn the drain knob to the closed position.
8.4 Draining the tank reduces the risk of corrosion inside the tank.
8.5 The air filter is designed to reduce noise and help prevent particulates in the air from
entering and damaging the air compressor.
8.6 After being used for a period of time, the air filter will become clogged.
This will reduce the air intake capabilities of the compressor, reducing performance.
Therefore, the air filter must be cleaned or replaced regularly.
8.7 Open the cover on the air filter and remove the filter element.
8.8 Inspect the filter element and if damaged or worn, replace immediately.
8.9 Blow the dirt from the air filter from the inside out.
You can use a low pressure airline to do this.
8.10 Reinstall the air filter.
8.11 A small leak in any hose or connection will reduce the air compressors performance.
8.12 To test for leaks, spray a small amount of soapy water on the area suspected of
leaking.
If soap bubbles appear, replace the broken part.
8.13 Clean the compressor with a soft brush or moist cloth.
8.14 DO NOT use a pressure washer or hose pipe as water can penetrate the motor
and cause failure that will not be covered by the warranty.
8.15 DO NOT use solvent based cleaning products, these could damage parts.
8.16 Turn off the power and wrap the power cord around the compressor.
8.17 Pull the relief valve and release all the pressure from the air tank.
8.18 Clean the air compressor to remove all dirt and dust.
8.19 Cover the air compressor with a cover to protect the unit from dust and moisture.
8.20 DO NOT stack or store other items on top of or around the air compressor.

https://manuall.co.uk/hyundai-hy3050v-compressor/

Of course they are going to say to have it repaired by an authorized agent. That's how they make their money. If it's out of warranty then anyone with a bit of sense can repair them. They are built up in China from generic parts. so are easy to source

 

[SimonStevensCanes]

ok, the long pipe that goes from the piston heads to the tank, the end of the pipe has a brass looking fitting where it goes into the tank. Inside that fitting is a spring and a little polyurethane type plug.

Empty the tank entirely then undo the nut on the end of the fitting, take out the plug and spring, if there is rubbish in there it stops the plug from moving. When that happens the pressure in the tank backs up in to the pipe to the head which means the piston has back pressure and wont start, it often is enough pressure to stop it from starting which can burn out the motor. Clean off the plug, makesure the fitting is clean and doesnt have any rubbish,swarf etc in there and reasseble.

if its not this it could be capacitor.

Update.... in the manual the fitting you need to remove the nut from is part 60.
https://power-spares.co.uk/air-compressors/direct-drive-air-compressors/hy3050v-spare-parts/

thank you, this looks very helpful, I'll follow your instructions and report back

 

[Stevekane]

Whilst you've all got your compressor heads on could I ask if anyone has looked at the pressure switch and how it might work on one of the little Parkside compressors, I found my sons one doesnt switch off?
Steve.

 

[SimonStevensCanes]

Empty the tank entirely then undo the nut on the end of the fitting, take out the plug and spring, if there is rubbish in there it stops the plug from moving. When that happens the pressure in the tank backs up in to the pipe to the head which means the piston has back pressure and wont start, it often is enough pressure to stop it from starting which can burn out the motor. Clean off the plug, makesure the fitting is clean and doesnt have any rubbish,swarf etc in there and reasseble.

The part genuinely couldn't have been cleaner. No rubbish, swarf anything .

In the OP's case, the unloader valve has gone. Easy enough to source a replacement.

Is the part I checked above the unloader valve?

Should I be looking to replace a/the capacitor, I have little experience with such things, I'm guessing the big things in here are the capacitors? Presumably they will have their rating/details printed on them for me to order replacements?

 

[bourbon]

Yes, that's the unloader valve that has been excellently described sometimes the springs in them go weak

 

[SimonStevensCanes]

is there a way of testing the capacitors?