Dado stack for Metabo PK200 table saw

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wightprojects

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I have a Matabo PK200 table saw. The blades are 210 x 30 bore. There's no advice in the user manual regarding dado stacks but I'd like to fit a dado stack to it if that's possible? Has anyone done this and what would you recommend? Would it be better to go for a 6" rather than an 8" stack to reduce the load on the motor? What can be done to change the size of the slot - to accommodate different dado stacks - in the removable section of the table?

Any advice would be much appreciated.

Thanks.
 
I have an EB saw that has the standard Euro law compliant arbor which is what I think your saw has. That is it is a short arbor specifically designed to prevent the use of a Dado set.

Dados' can be cut in many ways that are much safer than the dado set eg using a router, straight bit and a fence.

Al
 
Hi
Welcome to the Forum

Before I start to answer your question, it would be helpful to know a bit about how experienced you are. Dado sets are notorious for playing a part in very nasty accidents.

This may be presumptuous of me, but my guess is "not very". I don't mean that nastily, it's just that that saw is a very small, very basic machine and if you were very experienced I'd expect you to know the answer to your own question! :)

OK, the short answer is No, not a cat in hell's chance. But that's not very helpful, so let's explain why.

Stacked dadoes are many times heavier than a standard blade. That means that there is more momentum. On a big machine, that increase in momentum is relatively small compared with the momentum of the motor, but on a tiny machine like that it would make a considerable difference, resulting in the saw taking longer than 10 seconds to stop. That would put it outside the rules for braking times.

Secondly, the saw would need a long arbour and arbours are short specifically to stop us from fitting dadoes to inapproprate machinery.

Thirdly how do you propose to guard a dado stack? It's quite possible, but not easy.

So there are 3 very good reasons why you shouldn't even attempt it, and I'm sure I could think of many more.

So now let me try to be encouraging and constructive.

First of all, ask yourself why you want a dado set. For cutting housings? Use a router and jig. For cutting grooves and rebates? Use a router with a fence or a bearing, as appropriate. It's much safer, easier and quicker for small runs, if you take into account the setup time.

If you are hell bent on using a dado set, you need to consider upgrading your machine. Almost all consumer-grade tablesaws sold in county come with a short arbour. On some machines this can be replaced with a long abour. Several of us on here have the Xcalibur cabinet saw from Woodford's. It's one of the few that will accept a longer arbour. But it is not CE rated, so you couldn't use it legally in a commercial business, even if you guarded it properly and used jigs. But it is a superb saw, all the same and you should consider it as your most basic option. They go up from there, and as you have discovered by Googling it, it's not pocket-money prices.

I suggest that you find other ways to achieve your ends. There is nothing that a dado set can do that can't be done more safely and cheaply with a router. If you do want to see how to use a dado safely then follow the link in my footer and read the blurb about Workshop Essentials Volume 10. It might just save your fingers.

HTH
Steve
 
Yes, I thought that was probably the case (having phoned Metabo this morning). I'm interested in using the table saw to cut housings for cabinet work in hardwood, without making lots of passes over the single blade which is what I do at the moment. The router is fine for mdf and softwood but several passes are required to make deep housings in hardwood and I was thinking about a dado stack to speed up the process. Maybe I'll upgrade the table saw but I like the fact that I can move it around the workshop and out to site when I'm boatbuilding. Metabo's panel handling accessories are quite good too!
 
Why do you need deep housings? Housing are best quite shallow. They are primarily for location, as deep housings reduce the strength of the supporting board (bookcase side, for example). A deep housing joint is not much stronger than a shallow one and may even be weaker.
S
 
I can't cut housings 1/3 to 1/2 deep in, for example, the 1" Utile that I've been working with recently with one pass of my router, which is why I'm using the table saw ... Maybe I don't have a very good router? What would you recommend to cut a 3/8" deep by 1" wide housing over a 1 foot length in one pass in Utile?
 
If I were cutting that in decent class work, I would probably take two cuts anyway - one about 1/16 - 1/8 inches deep, to try to avoid the edges breaking out, then the second to get the depth.
 
I don't think I'd go 1/3 way into a board. 1/4 maybe. Certainly not 1/2.
1/4" I could do in one pass. More than that I'd take two cuts. It's better for the router and better for the finish. Any decent 1/2" router should have the oomph for that. Say 1400W and above. ANd if you do take 2 cuts, you could probably do it with something smaller,, although I grant you it would not be as convenient if you do this often.
It's quicker to do this than to set up a dado stack and then reset the saw afterwards, unless you are doing long batch runs, in which case you would probably be in the position of having a cabinet-grade saw anyway.
S
 
Yes ... but a problem with the router is dust removal when cutting housings on a router table? That's not a problem when cutting housings with a dado stack.
 
Well again, I wouldn't cut housings on a router table, I'd use a self sizing jig. Indeed I DO use a self sizing jig.
A dado stack is great when you have lots to do and have it properly guarded, but that is rarely the case, if internet examples are anything to go by.

I really do think I have produced the most rational dado guide treatise around, but I equally don't expect many people to pay any attention whatsoever!

S
 
Before I made my own router table I'd clamp batons on the workpiece to guide the router and I'd clamp the workpiece to the bench. it was a lot of hassle and I wouldn't want to go back anything like that to cut housings ... I'm not sure I know what a 'self sizing jig' is. Do you have a link?
 
Yes I do, but it is against forum rules for me to do so. If someone else wants to put up a link to Workshop Essentials Volume 10, they can, but I can't.
S
 
This will give you the idea, though I think its better to run off the edge of the router base rather than a collar.

I can easily fit dado blades to my American saw, but this is quicker to set up than messing with dado shims. And easier to adjust is the stock varies slightly, which sheets goods do.

Steve is right IMO.

http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/ ... -dado-jig/

Mark
 
Whilst I have a lot of time for Mark S, his depiction of cutting stopped grooves ont he RT is not something I would recommend to anyone. The workpiece should be supported by a backstop before dropping on. It is much more hazardous to rely on you fingers, especially on such a small workpiece.

Nice jointer plane though!

S
 
Agreed Steve
This was just the first vid I found to show the OP the general idea. I'm sure there are better overall jigs as well. I've not seen yours!

Mark
 
Well it's very similar. It doesn't need a guide bush, though, and the length is adjustable as well, so it sits astride the workpiece very positively. I also use plastic laminate for surfaces to slide smoothly, but yes, it's essentially the same jig.
S
 
OK, I see what you mean by a jig, the one on wood whisperer looks like it would be worth having around, I think I will make one! ... It'll be good for stopped housings but no good for full housings as the router will cut into the clamp on the end of the jig.
 
it works great for through housing as well, you just have to take that into account in the sections you choose. Why he has the clamps on the bottom where they get in the way beats me.
S
 

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