Cutting strips on TS

[Niki]

Good day

Today, I had to cut a few strips of 6mm.

There are many jigs and methods, this one is my method.

The only "minus" is that I cannot (and I don't want) to pull the jig back while the saw is running and also, I have to reset the feather rollers for each cut but, I feel safer with this method.

Later, I cut the 6mm strips to 15mm width, but I had to remove the guard for this operation (interference with the push stick), so I will not show it because the "guard police" will book me.

Regards
niki

[img]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t104/nanikami/Strips%20on%20TS/S01.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t104/nanikami/Strips%20on%20TS/S02.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t104/nanikami/Strips%20on%20TS/S03.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t104/nanikami/Strips%20on%20TS/S04.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t104/nanikami/Strips%20on%20TS/S05.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t104/nanikami/Strips%20on%20TS/S06.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t104/nanikami/Strips%20on%20TS/S07.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t104/nanikami/Strips%20on%20TS/S08.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t104/nanikami/Strips%20on%20TS/S09.jpg[/img]

 

[WellsWood]

Well done Niki,
another brilliantly simple idea =D> =D>. Like a taper jig without the taper - why didn't I think of that? :roll:
Perfect for those without a bandsaw who want to keep their digits intact!

Cheers,
Mark

 

[Newbie_Neil]

Hi Niki

Thank you for sharing it with us.

Another excellent idea.

Thank you,
Neil

 

[the_g_ster]

That looks great. Would a Festool and long guide rail get a result as good as that?

 

[johnelliott]

That looks great. Would a Festool and long guide rail get a result as good as that?

It would certainly be possible to do with the Festool stuff though the thickness would probably not be so consistent. THis is because as a piece of wod is sliced up so stresses are released and the wood will bend very slightly (or maybe quite alot) Niki's setup will help to keep the wood straight but as a Festool guide rail is dead straight and has no way of straightening the wood that is being cut, if the wood does start to bend slightly then the thickness of the strips will vary. No problem if the strips are going to be thicknessed though

John

 

[Colin C]

That looks great. Would a Festool and long guide rail get a result as good as that?

It would certainly be possible to do with the Festool stuff though the thickness would probably not be so consistent. THis is because as a piece of wod is sliced up so stresses are released and the wood will bend very slightly (or maybe quite alot) Niki's setup will help to keep the wood straight but as a Festool guide rail is dead straight and has no way of straightening the wood that is being cut, if the wood does start to bend slightly then the thickness of the strips will vary. No problem if the strips are going to be thicknessed though

John

One for the EZ as it can do this and keep the cuts the same 8-[ 8-[
( I will get my coat)

 

[johnelliott]

That looks great. Would a Festool and long guide rail get a result as good as that?

It would certainly be possible to do with the Festool stuff though the thickness would probably not be so consistent. THis is because as a piece of wod is sliced up so stresses are released and the wood will bend very slightly (or maybe quite alot) Niki's setup will help to keep the wood straight but as a Festool guide rail is dead straight and has no way of straightening the wood that is being cut, if the wood does start to bend slightly then the thickness of the strips will vary. No problem if the strips are going to be thicknessed though

John

One for the EZ as it can do this and keep the cuts the same 8-[ 8-[
( I will get my coat)

Not if the wood is bending it can't, as the repeaters bear on each end. It can only cut straight if the wood stays straight. The effect becomes more pronounced as the piece of wood gets thinner.

John

 

[Colin C]

John
I guess you have not had a good look at the site as you have the festool but it does show the EZ can do it ( you do need some extra clamps )

I understand what you mean but if like on niki's jig the wood is forced againest a straight edge and then cut, it will get over the bending problem.
Do you want me to post the link

 

[Niki]

Thank you for the kind replies

Mark
I never cut tapers but now I know how - why I didn't think of that. Thanks.

John
You are correct, the cuts came out very consistent, I just had to gang sand them (I don't have thicknesser nor planer).

niki

 

[Niki]

ez dino said

Cutting a piece of wood between a rotating blade and a stationary fence
is wrong. Even if your keeper is on the other side of the blade

As far as I know, on a TS, all the woods are cut between a rotating blade and stationary fence but if it's wrong maybe we have to discard all the table saws in the world.

If you look again at the pictures, the fence is not "stationary", it's only guided by the "stationary fence" and it's held very firmly BEFORE it enters the blade while the "hold down and out" roller keeps the "movable fence" pressed against the "stationary fence" AFTER it passes the blade.

I'm just making use of a tool that is the ABC of every furniture and cabinet maker without spending more money on system that I will not use so much (I'm amature).

IMHO, it looks to me more safe to cut a 6 feet long wood on the table saw than stretching myself over or go around the wood.

niki

 

[Scrit]

ez dino said

Cutting a piece of wood between a rotating blade and a stationary fence is wrong. Even if your keeper is on the other side of the blade

As far as I know, on a TS, all the woods are cut between a rotating blade and stationary fence but if it's wrong maybe we have to discard all the table saws in the world.

Only if you don't know how to use a table saw safely for ripping! When ripping timber the stresses released mean that timber can bow sideways. This can result in the timber to the right of the blade being pressed against the blade - if you insist on using a long rip fence which extends much past the front of the blade (or a jig which effectively acts in the same way) - potentially leading to a kickback if the material is forced onto the rising teeth of the blade. The method taught in colleges in Europe since the 1950s or earlier has been to use a short rip fence which stops just after the leading edge of the blade. Rip saw manufacturers started to fit short sliding fences to their machines in the 1920s or earlier, so the "phenomenon" is well known and understood.

Wadkin SO rip saw (from 1936 catalogue). Note the short rip fence

With a short rip fence any bowing away from the blade is harmless, into "free space". So, if you rip with the short fence a jig simply becomes unnecessary, especially if you have adequate infeed/outfeed support as Niki clearly shows on his saw. As to ripping 6ft strips, I'd reduce the lengths I cut to reflect the size I needed - the longer the rip the more awkward it becomes on a standard tablesaw. Standard procedure for breaking down is always crosscut first, then rip.

Scrit

 

[Niki]

Hi Scrit

Thank you for your comments.

Some 11~ 12 years ago, I got a kickback (twice) but it was from a TS that was actually CS mounted upside down under a table, that was my first TS and I did not know much about kickbacks.

After that, I bought some books and studied about it, bought a bench saw and made my own table and fence that I checked for alignment periodically with calipers.

Since then, I never experienced any kickback, maybe I was lucky with the woods that I buy.

After your comment, in other post, I started to use the short fence for initial ripping and the long fence for final ripping (just to trim some 1~ 3mm), I hope that I'm doing the correct thing, please comment if I'm not.

I had to cut strips of 6mm to at least 150cm as a glass holding strips, but as you noticed in the pictures, I cut them from pre-ripped narrow, 40mm pieces.

Thanks
niki