Cutting steel rod (16 mm) so it has a square end

[AES]

@Alpha-Dave: There's a lot of good ideas above, all of which will work I think - EXCEPT the hand-held angle grinder (fine in a decent "cut-off holder" though).

BUT without sounding like "Daddy" ('onest, it's NOT my intention to poke fun OR to lecture you), with a hacksaw and files you already have all the tools you need for the job. The "only" thing you need is the hand/eye coordination to cut of square then finish off (which should probably only need a file to clean off burrs in most cases). That "skill of hand" does take time to learn, but a bit like riding a bike, it's something which, once learned is never forgotten.

So you MAY consider it worthwhile to spend some time (and probably producing a rod or two which are too short while learning!). And PERHAPS to start off with, knocking up a little hardwood (or ply) jig to assist the early efforts. As said, once learnt you'll be able to repeat ad-infinitum with a high degree of accuracy without a jig.

So really you "only" have to ask yourself "Do I want to spend that time learning that skill?", or not - remembering that such skill of hand can be readily transferred to a million other jobs.

The choice can only be yours of course and I must say that if the need is "only" for hobby use, and IF you have many other things to do/make in limited time, then I can understand you using any of the suggestions above, all of which will I think work.

Perhaps I'm "lucky" 'cos I was "made" to learn that skill during my apprenticeship, but as said, if you don't have to, I wouldn't sneer at you for "not bothering" in a hobby environment.

 

[rafezetter]

Being honest, I am wondering why all the complications? 16mm rod is easily cut almost square by eye with an angle grinder (ensure all proper protections taken ofc) then file flat using some sacrifical wood jaws in your vice to run against. If you do several you can gang them and draw file or for a better finish wet sand.

If you don't have an angle grinder, then sure a hacksaw if you are a masochist!

Even for a novice it's pretty hard to get it badly wrong, just take it slow and keep a firm grip of the angle grinder and buy yourself some 1mm thick cutting blades off ebay or Aldi (which work great) and will make the work easier and cut cleaner than the thicker ones.

and "just in case" - clamp the rod so that the cut is very close to the jaws, an inch at most - leaving too much overhang will make the metal rod vibrate when cutting, regardless of tool, giving a coarse finish needing more cleanup time.

 

[AES]

Being honest, I am wondering why all the complications? 16mm rod is easily cut almost square by eye with an angle grinder (ensure all proper protections taken ofc) then file flat using some sacrifical wood jaws in your vice to run against. If you do several you can gang them and draw file or for a better finish wet sand.

If you don't have an angle grinder, then sure a hacksaw if you are a masochist!

Even for a novice it's pretty hard to get it badly wrong, just take it slow and keep a firm grip of the angle grinder and buy yourself some 1mm thick cutting blades off ebay or Aldi (which work great) and will make the work easier and cut cleaner than the thicker ones.

and "just in case" - clamp the rod so that the cut is very close to the jaws, an inch at most - leaving too much overhang will make the metal rod vibrate when cutting, regardless of tool, giving a coarse finish needing more cleanup time.

Although your points are basically true rafzetter, I do take issue with your use of the word "masochist" when it comes to using a hacksaw. "Only" 16 mm dia MS rod, and with the CORRECT blade - (18 TPI or less if you can find 14 TPI) - anyone who knows how to use a hacksaw properly can go through those, what was it, 8 off? pieces before someone else has unwrapped the cable on the angle grinder and mounted it in the cut off stand!!

 

[NickWelford]

Lidl have a metal cutting bandsaw next week 29th. Under £100. Wish I had a need for one.......

 

[TFrench]

I'd go with peri's method - by far the easiest, and theres no need to have them dead square if you do it that way.

 

[steve1001]

Become a surface grinder.
Firmly fix the angle grinder on the bench, with the wheel at a set height above the bench.
Press the workpiece down against the worktop and slide it under the angle grinder wheel.
Takes very small grinds.
Adjust angle grinder for successive cuts.
You are emulating a surface grinder here.
Bench must be smooth and flat.

Easiest thing would be to get someone to mill or turn it off for you.

 

[Alpha-Dave]

Thank you all.

For this work, I’m going to try cutting with a hacksaw by hand, using a guide, and then if over 2mm drift across the cut, then I will file level using a guide made up from wood.

Then I will use the 16 mm hole, as suggested by Spectric rather than my original 12 mm plug-weld method.

This should get me through the first 10 or so of these. For future work, I’m thinking that either the Rage4 cold cut saw or the Lidl mini bandsaw, each for £99 is a reasonable investment. Both have pros and cons, but I currently have the Rage4 on order from Screwfix.

 

[AES]

Thank you all.

For this work, I’m going to try cutting with a hacksaw by hand, using a guide, and then if over 2mm drift across the cut, then I will file level using a guide made up from wood.

Then I will use the 16 mm hole, as suggested by Spectric rather than my original 12 mm plug-weld method.

This should get me through the first 10 or so of these. For future work, I’m thinking that either the Rage4 cold cut saw or the Lidl mini bandsaw, each for £99 is a reasonable investment. Both have pros and cons, but I currently have the Rage4 on order from Screwfix.

OK, Alpha-Dave, and again, without being condescending, hats off to you for trying the (what rafzetter refers to as ) "the masochist" method!

As my post above, make sure you've got a SHARP 18 TPI blade (or 14 TPI IF you can find one), and just a bit of practice plus standing correctly will soon see you right.

NOT blowing my own trumpet, but at the top of this Section there's a sticky about hacksawing and a quick scan through that will put you on the right path if you're at all unsure about matters like correct stance, stroke, speed, etc.

When it arrives I'd also be interested to hear/see about your experience with the Rage 3.

Cheers

 

[rafezetter]

Although your points are basically true rafzetter, I do take issue with your use of the word "masochist" when it comes to using a hacksaw. "Only" 16 mm dia MS rod, and with the CORRECT blade - (18 TPI or less if you can find 14 TPI) - anyone who knows how to use a hacksaw properly can go through those, what was it, 8 off? pieces before someone else has unwrapped the cable on the angle grinder and mounted it in the cut off stand!!

Sounds a bit like a challenge to me but I would do it freehand for something that thin. Most of my rod cutting is with threaded rod but personally that's a bit of a pita when cutting with a hacksaw as the blade wants to follow the thread grooves.

(and you seem to be missing a couple of "e's" in your posts, so I've included spares.)

e e

 

[HamsterJam]

I have cut much bigger tube pretty square by using a straight piece of paper to provide an accurate line. Marking that line onto the tube with a scribe then cutting with a few hacksaw strokes, rotating the tube slightly then a few more saw strokes, etc, etc.
You might be able to get acceptably square using a similar technique rather than cutting straight down through the material in one go.

 

[AES]

@rafzetter: Thanks for the spare "ee"s mate. I can't see any missing, but being the most commonly-used letter in English a couple of spares will always come in useful I'm sure

While my comment about masochists wasn't really intended as a challenge I can quite see how it may look that way . But NOT intended, 'onest.

If you have trouble with hacksawing threaded rod may I suggest you try the tip in "that" sticky about hacksaws - use a small triangular file to slightly widen the thread where you're starting cut will be and you'll find "Robert's yer fathers brother" mate. Easy-peasy.

I have cut much bigger tube pretty square by using a straight piece of paper to provide an accurate line. Marking that line onto the tube with a scribe then cutting with a few hacksaw strokes, rotating the tube slightly then a few more saw strokes, etc, etc.
You might be able to get acceptably square using a similar technique rather than cutting straight down through the material in one go.

Yup, that works too Hamster Jam. The only "caution" I'd offer is to be sure that minimum 3 teeth are always in contact with the job. Especially so if it's thin wall tube. Doesn't apply with solid stuff though.

 

[HamsterJam]

Yup, that works too Hamster Jam. The only "caution" I'd offer is to be sure that minimum 3 teeth are always in contact with the job. Especially so if it's thin wall tube. Doesn't apply with solid stuff though.

yep - used a fine toothed blade to cut thin walled tube between 1 1/2 inch and 6 inch diameter. Quick run round with a deburring tool, clean up with fine abrasive pad then pull through with rag/solvent to clear any dust/swarf and the job‘s a good-un.

 

[A.R]

OK, Alpha-Dave, and again, without being condescending, hats off to you for trying the (what rafzetter refers to as ) "the masochist" method!

As my post above, make sure you've got a SHARP 18 TPI blade (or 14 TPI IF you can find one), and just a bit of practice plus standing correctly will soon see you right.

NOT blowing my own trumpet, but at the top of this Section there's a sticky about hacksawing and a quick scan through that will put you on the right path if you're at all unsure about matters like correct stance, stroke, speed, etc.

When it arrives I'd also be interested to hear/see about your experience with the Rage 3.

Cheers

Why don't you mention a drop of oil as a lubricant too?

 

[AES]

Why don't you mention a drop of oil as a lubricant too?

'cos I've never (OK; almost never!) found it necessary. Certainly not with MS anyway - but "your mileage may vary".