Cutting long boards

[dmsims]

Following a new kitchen floor I need to remove about 10mm off the long edge from some oak veneered chipboard plinths

I am guessing that the preferred weapon would be a table saw ?

I don't have one and would find it hard to justify so any other suggestions
would be great. Alternatively if anyone is near Ipswich and fancies earning some extra cash ..............

Thanks
David

 

[jasonB]

Hardpoint saw won't take long in chipboard, circ saw would be easier.

Jason

 

[Paul Chapman]

A router would do it, and produce a nice finish, if you have one.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[wizer]

I'd use the EZ Rails and a Circular saw. You could use Festool if you're flush. (same results)

 

[Benchwayze]

I'd seal the raw edges afterwards with waterproofing, against spillage, and cleaning. If the chipboard is like the rubbish someone used on my flat roof, it soaks up water like a sponge, and soon goes just as soft too.

Regards
John

 

[dmsims]

A router would do it, and produce a nice finish, if you have one.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

I do have a DW615 router (following on from excellent previous advice here in restoring an oak staircase)

My concern would be how to guide it over 3 metres and at the edges where the chipboard might break away ?

 

[Smudger]

If the cut is parallel to the edge you could use a fence. If not, clamp a suitable straightedge in place.

 

[mister henderson]

This sounds like a job for a festool ts55 and guide rail. If the rail isnt long enough then just cut most of the way, then move the rail along and cut some more. It's sounds tricky but it isn't, I've done it lots of times.

Usually you will find with plinths that they need to be tapered, in other words the units will have been installed level but the floor will have a slope or a dip in it. That's why using a fence against the existing edge is often not ideal. Have you measured the gap from unit base to floor in various different places yet?

 

[jasonB]

If the cut is parallel to the edge you could use a fence. If not, clamp a suitable straightedge in place.

Would need to be a stepped fence so the part behind the cut rests against the cut edge, screwing a scrap 10mm thick to the fence will do it.

Or cut a rebate half wat through using the fence, flip the board over and use a bearing guided flush cutter against the freshly cut edge.

Jason

 

[Paul Chapman]

A router would do it, and produce a nice finish, if you have one.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

I do have a DW615 router (following on from excellent previous advice here in restoring an oak staircase)

My concern would be how to guide it over 3 metres and at the edges where the chipboard might break away ?

There are probably two ways you could do it. One would be to use the side fence against the opposite edge to guide it. However, if the piece is 3 metres long, you might have problems finding a surface long enough to clamp the workpiece to while working on it.

The other way would be to knock up a temporary router table (if you don't already have a table) and feed the workpiece in to the cutter. You could make up a table top by drilling a hole (for the cutter) into a piece of MDF and mounting holes for the router base, rather like this only a bit larger

then making up some legs and a piece of wood for a fence.

If you take shallow cuts, you shouldn't have trouble with breakout.

You could, alternatively, use a hardpoint saw and clean up the edge with a plane.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[woodbloke]

Paul Chapman wrote:

clean up the edge with a plane.

3m of chipboard :shock: ...sounds like a job for a No8 LN :wink: or maybe just an ordinary DIY grade No4, which would be much more suitable, be prepared to sharpen the blade at least half and dozen times though - Rob

 

[dickm]

I'd seal the raw edges afterwards with waterproofing, against spillage, and cleaning. If the chipboard is like the rubbish someone used on my flat roof, it soaks up water like a sponge, and soon goes just as soft too.
John

The units in my kitchen have a neat plastic channel that slips on to the bottom of the plinth to keep out water. If you can find them (most of the staff have no idea they exist) B&Q should have the strip. Otherwise, there are other sources - there was a thread about this last year.

 

[Slim]

This sounds like a job for a festool ts55

:roll:

 

[mister henderson]

The units in my kitchen have a neat plastic channel that slips on to the bottom of the plinth to keep out water. If you can find them (most of the staff have no idea they exist) B&Q should have the strip. Otherwise, there are other sources - there was a thread about this last year.

Trouble is, it doesn't work very well long term, especially if the kitchen user is an enthusiastic mopper. It would probably be ok if it was sealed onto the edge of the plinth somehow, or if the edge was sealed first.

 

[dmsims]

Thank you all for the advice

I tried the fence and found it difficult

I clamped an oak floorboard to use as a guide and the result was great

Thanks again

David

 

[dickm]

Trouble is, it doesn't work very well long term, especially if the kitchen user is an enthusiastic mopper. It would probably be ok if it was sealed onto the edge of the plinth somehow, or if the edge was sealed first.

Not had a problem with our's - maybe we (and the previous owners) are not such enthusiastic moppers. Certainly still OK after 9 years. Did wonder about putting a bead of silicone along the bottom edge before fitting the strip when doing our utility room, but didn't bother in the end.

 

[Digit]

Dear oh dear oh dear! David my boy you have a lot to learn. It is at times like this that you explain to your partner that you now have no choice but to buy that expensive piece of kit! :lol:

Roy.

 

[j]

Not that I've ever done it, but couldn't you put the cut edge at the top of the plinth? This would then be under the cupboard and wouldn't get wet unless you had 6inches of water on the floor.

All this coming from a man with kitchen plinths 1inch thicker at the washing machine end

J

 

[skipdiver]

The last kitchen i fitted(a Sheraton from Jackson building centres)had two raw edges on the plinths and was supplied with a clear plastic capping which i stuck on with clear silicone.

Had a phne call from the customer t'other day asking me if i can now remove and refit them for the flooring guy.Will probably have to cut them all down again. :x