Crosscutting thin strips

[andersonec]

Could you use your mitre fence and rip fence with a sub-fence (say, a piece of 2x1) attached to the back part which releases the cut wood just after the cut begins and thereby prevents jams and kickbacks.
Brian

Brian,

This would work only if the end is square, you would only need your 2 x 1 to set up the thickness of the cut, if using a mtre gauge you wouldn't really need to be using the fence, the work needs to have left the 2 x 1 before it gets to the blade and be carried across the length of the cut by the mitre gauge without the use of the fence.

Andy

 

[mn pete]

I think the method Brian describes would be very effective as well. As long as that extra stop block is cleared by the time you engage the blade you won't have any pinch risk from using a miter gauge and the fence together.

 

[andersonec]

I think the method Brian describes would be very effective as well. As long as that extra stop block is cleared by the time you engage the blade you won't have any pinch risk from using a miter gauge and the fence together.

Agreed Pete, the work needs to be carried forward with no contact with anything on the right side, just a stop-block to set the width of the cut and as you say, the work must leave the stop-block before it contacts the blade.

Andy

 

[wcndave]

Another way, i have used. Plane a piece of wood to the thickness you want to cut. Chop this in to say 10 pieces. Put a stop on your mitre, probably using a sacrificial or longer fence attached. Then make one cut to square the end, then insert one of your strips, cut, insert another and cut again. Can repeat as many times as you you have strips. Then move the stop, cut a piece of scrap of end (thin as you can) and start again.

If you have a planer/thicknesser, this is really easy to create the strips. You get exact repeatability, no fence, no binding, perfect.

If you have a table sled, you can come in from other side, do same thing with just the main stop in the right place.

You can also put a square across the workpiece, then clamp a board down as edge for circular saw, and use the strips on that in tne same way.

I have a whole set of spacers i keep and use for this kind of stuff, in various useful sizes from 1/8 to 2"